Jon W.

The video I watched showed the man being shot with bean bags. They didn't kill him. They don't usually handcuff bodies. Seems like an incorrect video title.

I think the ACA was written with me in mind. Background Info: I'm nearly 62 and mentally ready to retire. Only thing holding me back is as long as I work at least 17.5 hrs per week, my company will subsidize my (and wife's) medical insurance $13,000 per year. My COBRA cost for the same would be $18,000 per year. May be able to find cheaper on open market. So, being the cheap "PA Dutchman" that I am, I continue working part time. At 65 I'll be on Medicare and a year later my wife will follow. ACA to The Rescue: As long as our income is between $15k and $62k per year, Nancy Pelosi wants to subsidize us. So, as long as we maintain our income (per ACA income standards) we're golden. We'll live off savings, collect small pensions, but no SS benefits, and stay within the subsidy limits. I have been trying to register on Healthcare.gov and run a what-if scenario for 2014 income. I've entered my info at least 10 times now and still haven't had my identity accepted. Successfully uploaded a copy of my passport 10 times and still haven't been accepted. Used the chat function and explained the problem. Tamiesha asked me if the passport is a document issued by a government agency. Last time I looked, Dept of State still was. Been asked to call to register. I can wait a few more months for the website. You can shop on the website or directly with ins companies for plans, you just won't know the subsidy . All plans have deductibles. The plan that is cheaper than your TV cable fees has an annual deductible of $12,700. So, when I finally pack in the job, I'll select a high deduct plan, and be a cash customer at the doctor's office, lab, etc. The plan will be for catastrophic coverage only. Thanks, Nancy, for thinking of me.

Jim, Exactly what I was thinking. The bolt dia is limited by the size of the upright. Add an inner parallel stiffener beam to increase beam section modulus by at least 3 or 4 times. Capture on either side of bolt and incorporate/weld the normal spacer. All spacers should be full thickness (ID just clearing OD of bolt). The McPher strut design definitely results in different loading forces. The design of this upright conversion was an expedient solution but doesn't appear well analyzed resulting in a weak link. Slicks greatly increase lateral and braking loads. I'd be inspecting those bolts on a regular basis, or preferably, reinforcing the design.

As an engineer, this upright design looks scary. Is this a factory design? The bolts fail in bending. The "rnr" post's photo arrangement with a shorter cantilever and larger OD spacer will have a larger bending capacity than the "rss" post's photo arrangement with a longer cantilever and smaller OD spacer. To gain the greatest benefit from the spacer, the portion of the upright in contact with the spacer should be faced square and the bolts torqued to max spec to maintain the spacer in contact during bending. This arrangement will essentially allow the spacer and bolt to act as a larger beam section.

3003 H14 is most common. 5052 also works well. Check the existing thickness. Probably .050" or maybe .040. ("Competent" metal man should know this.)

Headed stud, understand now. In the following order, I would try: 1. Impact wrench. Sometimes works. 2. Second flat and wrench holding stud. 3. Slot for screw driver, although section is already reduced. 4. Weld something on top of stud to hold it while loosening nut, then cut off excess. Replacing the nut will be provide reduced clamping force if it can't be tightened.

Remove stud and nut. Replace stud. It looks damaged anyway. Or, after removal, double-nut (locked against one another) the inside end of stud to remove outer nut.

I believe that e-brake location is fairly standard for Lotus 7s and their successors over the years. Standard frame's cockpit is too narrow for it to be next to driver's or passenger's leg.

Certainly, that has to be incorrect information. That would make it nearly the least expensive car in the line. The 2002 NSX was $90k. Other guesses are in the $100k to $150k range.

I might show up as a spectator. Don't own a car sufficiently exotic to park next to those Italians. I live 50 miles away.

I think you mean PASM. PSM is standard. Porsche Active Susp Mgt is pretty amazing. It's on in an instant. Solenoids change the path of the damper oil. I use it for smooth roads, entering highway ramps, or just before curves. If you drive a car with it, you'll want it. Car feels soft and floppy with it off; but too stiff for all day cruising with it on. I looked until I found a car with it. Ended up with an '08 RS 60 because they all have it. Not sure I can afford them out of warranty. I think they're $1800 EACH to replace.

Are you sure your garage temp drops below freezing? In PA, my attached, insulated, usually unheated garage never drops below freezing. Close but not below. My R888s stayed in the garage one season with no problems, but I now put in basement to be safe. Treadzone says the tires are raced with temps as low as 40 degrees and do fine.

You can probably remove the worst dents yourself with a steel dolly inside and by using a wooden or rubber hammer outside. The metal is already stretched. Don't use a steel hammer on the outside you risk stretching it more. Put some painter's tape over it first. You might get it 80% the above method and by just touching up the peeled areas. I'm afraid to get it 100% you might have to use heat to shrink it back (or at least aneal it to make it more workable) , or push the dents in and use filler as Martin said. If using heat, you'd need to remove the rear wing and repaint a larger area. I'd live with it until I got tired of it and then replace the entire panel. That panel is not that difficult to make.

Everyone, including Porsche, admits that the Cayman/Boxster will always be lower powered than the 911 variants to keep them slower. The mid engine platform is superior and they can't allow the 911 icon to be second class. Limited slip was offered in Caymans starting in 2009. If you drive one with PASM (active susp), you will not want one without it. Beginning 2010 engines have direct injection and no intermediate shaft (IMS). Search on "IMS failure" for the infrequently occurring, gory details. They are great track cars for HPDE. The Boxster rollover hoops are too low and require extensions which are less than ideal. Our local PCA region pres just picked up a Cayman R for track/daily use. I have a 2008 Boxster RS 60. It's the closest I will ever get to owning a supercar. PASM redirects the damper oil with a solenoid immediately, when switched, just in time for the highway ramp you're entering. Look for a CPO if available. Warranted to 6 yrs, 100,000 miles. Expensive, but worth it.

I'm on my third Miata. I use them as daily drivers. They're the right tool for the job. My first was a '90 theft recovery I put back on the road "reconstructed" in PA DOT speak. Drove it from 120k miles to 183k. Did a "liquid metal short nose crank fix" which worked fine. Next was a '92 bought at 90k for $1900 and driven to 130k. Only other maintenance they required was timing belts, clutch cylinders, plug wires, and infrequently brake pads. Otherwise, bullet proof little engines. Current daily driver is a '07 Grand Touring. Plush with leather, heated seats, keyless entry/ignition, & limited slip. Bought at 39k miles for $15k. That price is less than the options on my '08 Boxster S RS60, and the Miata is almost better equipped. Bought a set of all weather tires and wheels for winter use for the Miata for the same price of rear tires for the Boxster. The Miata does require a few extra seconds to put me in driver's license suspension territory. Maybe that's a good thing.