jevs Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 toedrag brought it to my attention that the Summit filter called for in our setups is a 40 micron with just a round stainless mesh screen. This is being used as a pre-pump filter. This might be ok for that purpose, but it seems like it might clog quickly and from everything I have read is not adequate without a post pump/pre-regulator filter also. This one should really be 5 micron or better give or take from what I can tell. So, looking to get a discussion started on this. Unfortunately I think both of us already have what we thought was complete fuel systems. I know toedrag has ordered some stuff to try, but I know there are plenty of LS powered cars out there now, so I wanted to ask what others are using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 100/10 micron setup: Pre-pump: 100 micron filter from Summit Racing, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230118 Post-pump: 10 micron filter from Summit Racing, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230116 The Summit Racing filters have been used on my car for seven years with no issues. I changed out the filter elements this year for no other reason than peace of mind: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyMike Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 I'm running the same pre-pump fuel filter (SUM-230118R) as xcarguy. No problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) Thx, Jevs. Here is the SUM-230105 filter. The quarter-sized filter element is "it". The remainder of the blue aluminum tube is entirely hollow. It's kind of mind-boggling that, one, this thing costs $30, and two, that I would put the trust of my fuel system and engine function in the hands of this filter that has maybe 1 sq in of filter media: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27761&g2_serialNumber=2 Edited October 23, 2014 by toedrag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subtlez28 Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I still cannot figure out why Brunton does not run an in tank pump, and then a Corvette C5 filter/regulator (the same part) like a lot of LS swappers do. You guys still have that option if your tanks are empty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyMike Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I still cannot figure out why Brunton does not run an in tank pump, and then a Corvette C5 filter/regulator (the same part) like a lot of LS swappers do. You guys still have that option if your tanks are empty. It would probably be far quieter than my external fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I still cannot figure out why Brunton does not run an in tank pump, and then a Corvette C5 filter/regulator (the same part) like a lot of LS swappers do. You guys still have that option if your tanks are empty. Z, :iagree: Somebody in the world of Storkers needs to pave the way. Here's a good starting point: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Does having a tank with a sump, along with an external pump, reduce the risk of fuel starvation? Is it difficult to use an in-tank pump inside a tank that has a sump? Seems like it may require a fair bit of tank modifications to make it work. Might be easier to just start over with a new tank. (I won't be the one to try this, btw) And when I hit a bump, if it makes the tank, sump, and pump go thump, will it hurt my lump - as my wallet goes....ker-plunk? :jester: - channeling some Dr. Seuss for you all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) I think you would just have to get the pickup sock down into the sump area and then put a cap on the output. The internal pump seems like it would add a pound or two to the car and reduce capacity of the tank a little. I am not sure if it is worth it or not. It would hide some components and maybe look a little cleaner. Other than that, the only other benefits I can see are that it would be a little quieter and maybe the pump could last longer being cooled by the fuel. I have always ran external pumps on my fuel injection conversions just because it is easier to use the existing tanks etc. Since this is essentially a noisy race car with no creature comforts, sound deadening etc, I doubt the extra pump noise will make much difference to me. It probably won't be heard much when the engine is running? The other issue is that the sump area is at an angle, so you don't have a flat pickup spot. This may not be a real big deal other than you would have to just refill before you get down to your last quart You would need to do something different than the one xcarguy posted unless you modded the tank. However I think it could be simpler. Use your sump area as that bottom pan thing they have on that. So, I think it could be done, but the bad thing is I have a complete fuel system already. The only thing I really need is another low micron filter unless I choose to replace the summit 40 micron pre-filter with a better one also. Edited October 23, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 And when I hit a bump, if it makes the tank, sump, and pump go thump, will it hurt my lump - as my wallet goes....ker-plunk? :jester: - channeling some Dr. Seuss for you all Ah, toedrag, you've made the move to the humorous side. Very good. . . . . . . :cooldude: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTTTCAR Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) I used the summit 230105 filter at the engine. I used a slightly altered Silverado---Bosch Automotive 67381: Electric In-Tank fuel pump assembly minus the sender. (Already had a gauge specific sender) It has two check valves in the bottom, one that fills the sump tank thru a sock and the other without a sock. The return line pumps into the sump tank, so on long high G corners or acceleration with a low fuel level you don't run out of fuel (theoretically). It is easy to remove and install the sump tank/pump assembly (4 SS bolts & 3 quick disconnects). The assembly is spring loaded so it is held solidly against the bottom of the tank (I had to extend the leg tubes however to fit my tank) The problem with this device is that it was designed to pump 50 psi fuel to LS truck engines and would not supply enough fuel to maintain 60 psi at 7000rpm at full load on an LS7. The pump had to be changed to a Walbro 255 lph, high pressure pump, which fits well and solves the problem. The Corvette fuel filter regulator also does not work with an LS7--It puts out 50psi instead of 60 psi. Gale Edited October 23, 2014 by HOTTTCAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Thx, Jevs. Here is the SUM-230105 filter. The quarter-sized filter element is "it". The remainder of the blue aluminum tube is entirely hollow. It's kind of mind-boggling that, one, this thing costs $30, and two, that I would put the trust of my fuel system and engine function in the hands of this filter that has maybe 1 sq in of filter media: If the holes are big enough, it doesn't take much screen area. (see I can make jokes too) But the filter doesn't do its job of filtering out bad stuff. In the American Provincial system of weights and measures, 40 microns is .0016 inches, kinda big. I'm with xcarguy, a 10 micron post filter is added insurance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTTTCAR Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) This is the current pump/sump/intank strainer sock assembly i am using. http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r280/HOTTTCAR/fuelpumpassm_zps8b94cd15.jpg I had changed the sock to a much finer after market sock from Walbro if i remember correctly. THis proved to be problematic. I developed a fuel flo problem and when i pulled the pump assembly I found this jel which looked like glass beads covering the sock. Inside the tank there was more. It has the consistancy of jello and is very flammable. It acts a lot like the napalm we used to make in the lab. Any ideas? http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r280/HOTTTCAR/tankjell015_zps39a58896.jpg Edited October 23, 2014 by HOTTTCAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Received my filters today and a few fittings. First things first...here is the SUM-230105 vs Aeromotive 12316. Take a look at the huge different in the size & configuration of the filter media. Additionally, the Aeromotive has 3/8" NPT female fittings, which if you want to use AN fittings, it makes the body a little longer than the Summit one http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27763&g2_serialNumber=3 For my fuel system, I think I have a workable solution now. I need a sanity check, however...please tell me why it is a terrible, terrible idea to run the fuel pump *under* the passenger side half-shaft. This part of the half-shaft shouldn't really be moving much up & down, so I don't see it being a problem clearance-wise. Obviously, in the event of catastrophic failure where the CV joint, half-shaft, and/or differential meets the true death, it would likely destroy the pump & plumbing and would lead to a fuel spill. On the other hand, I'm having trouble coming up with any plumbing routing variation which would guard against that. Intuitively, what I'm proposing feels wrong. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27765&g2_serialNumber=2 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27767&g2_serialNumber=2 For my post-pump filter, I purchased a Canton Racing 25-911, which is a 1 micron (yes, '1' = one micron, not a typo) canister style filter. Why '1' micron? Well, I found a Bosch article where they recommended a http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27771&g2_serialNumber=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Here is a view from the bottom of the car, looking up at where the pump & post-pump filter are: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27769&g2_serialNumber=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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