MarkEMark Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Recently acquired 2003 Birkin S3, I'm told the Zetec is a ZX3 engine, I assume from ~2003. Only 2,400 miles as it has sat unused for 7 years, but should I replace the cambelt because of age, not mileage? Not sure this attached engine label adds anything, but maybe the date is 2000? Thanks, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdaddy Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 I'm not sure about the sticker but I have an S3 Birkin with a Zetec and it's so easy to change the belt, my advice would be to just do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkEMark Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 So no need to reset the timing, and easy to do with the engine in situ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taber10 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 MarkEMark, Try the Ford Focus forum as there is lots on TB change, for both the Zetec and the Zetec SVT. http://forums.focaljet.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slomove Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 So no need to reset the timing, and easy to do with the engine in situ? Easy to do in place (after removing all the cover plastic junk). If you use the cam timing lock bar to hold the cams in place (got to take the valve cover off, anyway) while changing you *may* be able to do without re-adjusting the timing. But if you do that the first time be prepared something will slip or jump a cog. But if you have stock cams, the lock bar tool (and the TDC end stop screw) should make it easy enough to get right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breezy7 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Maybe you can change the belt the way I did on my Miata. After gaining access to the belt I cut it in half length wise with a utility knife. I slid the new belt on as far as possible and then cut the remaining old belt across its width. I slid the new belt into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkEMark Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Thanks for all the input. Breezy7 - love your creative approach! I know you guys all love an excuse to take your cars apart :-), but back to the original question. Do I NEED to replace it? (2,400 miles, 12 years old) Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkEMark Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Searching on other forums, looks like 10 years is the schedule. I will remove the cover and take a look. I also see Zetec is a "non interference" engine, so if it snaps the pistons don't eat the valves... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slomove Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 ........ I also see Zetec is a "non interference" engine, so if it snaps the pistons don't eat the valves... I read the same but have a look if compression was increased or high lift cams installed. That may change things. I had the belt go on a Mitsubishi Galant after 6 years and maybe 50k miles (and the engine parts interfered very much). Means it does happen. At 12 years mostly sitting the replacement should be a no-brainer. I really like Breezy's method. I will keep that in mind for next time I have to work on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James A Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 An 11 year old belt, CHANGE IT! Buy the inexpensive camshaft and crankshaft locking devices and it is a snap to change out the timing belt and maintain timing. Locking devices: http://www.c-f-m.com/performanceparts/pc/CFM-Camshaft-and-Cam-Gear-Installation-Timing-Tools-for-Focus-Zetec-SVT-ST170-69p152.htm#.VLaD2sYzTWQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitcat Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 OK, I am adding this one to my list of things to do on my 12 year old Zetec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hill Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 James: Is there a lock for the crank as well as cam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkEMark Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Such great info. Thank you everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gherkin Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 You will want a cam locking tool for this job as mentioned in an earlier post. These kits (at least the Duratec units) usually come with thread in crank stops as well. Example here on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Massive-Absolute-Cam-Timing-Alignment-Tool-Set-Pin-Bar-Zetec-2-0-Focus-SVT-ST170-/261508694272?hash=item3ce3220100&item=261508694272&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James A Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 The cam lock link I provided has the crank lock also. The cam lock is the flat plate and the crank lock is the piece that looks like a bolt. The crank lock threads in to a boss in the side of the block and rests against the crank counter weight when it is in TDC. There are very nice to have when doing this job and make it easier to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super7guy Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 The crank stop pin does not hold the crankshaft in alignment, it only resists further rotation. If you have adjustable cam pulleys, the cam lock only works properly with the cams in zero A/R position. If the cams have any A/R, the cams must be reset to zero prior to belt installation and then set back to their former A/R positions. Good idea to mark all pulleys before hand to enable a "sanity check" afterward. Wayne in San Diego Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taber10 Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) "Plus one" on what Super7Guy said: These are not "locks" at all, but indicators. In other references, there are clear directions NOT to turn the crank against the pin, nor the cam against the timing gauge. In both cases, damage is possible. The pin tells you when the TDC position has been reached, and the gauge (bar) indicates when proper cam alignment has been reached, but does not "lock" the cams. The ears upon which the cam gauge rests can be damaged. Note: Neither OTC, Ford nor C-F-M actually call these tools "locks" as far as I have seen...... Taber Edited January 15, 2015 by Taber10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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