frizille Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Has anyone been successful removing the oil pan then resealing it with RTV without having to take the timing cover off? I got the pan off ok, but it's really tight between the timing cover and the bellhousing so not sure if I'll be able to get it back on while still getting a good seal between the timing cover and the oil pan. Anyone successful? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Which motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frizille Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Oops, sorry, that would have been helpful to mention - Ford Duratec 2L (Roadsport 175). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wemtd Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 It can't be done in my Birkin (without removing the engine). I've had my oil pain on/off without removing the timing cover (which is a pain d/t the crankshaft pulley torque and shaft not being keyed). However I expect you'll still have bell housing to oil pan bolts that can't be removed in the car. - The best technique I've found is to raise the car and lower engine/gearbox out the bottom. - good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frizille Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Good news! I got it fixed without having to take the timing cover off. The Caterham chassis + Duratec bellhousing leaves enough room to get the bolts in and out with no problems, however, the fitment is VERY tight between the timing cover and the bellhousing. The trick to reassembly, with the Raceline oil pan (Caterham OEM one), is to get the small extension on the back of the pan where it seals to the engine just below the pressure plate / driveshaft / clutch assembly into the bellhousing lip first, then push up and the pan will smoothly slide right into place with the help of a few light taps with your trusty friend Mr. Rubber Mallet. Once you get it into place work your way around the oil pan tapping it lightly into position, get a couple bolts in, then in a star fashion slowly work the pan straight up tightening each bolt one at a time. I torqued to 10, 15, then 18 ft lbs per the Haynes manual using Permatex Right Stuff (black). I put 50 miles on it since putting it back together and filling with 6 qts of Mobile 1 5w30 and no leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frizille Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 No go - started leaking again the other day. Not as bad, but still enough to warrant another drop and reseal. I've decided I dislike RTV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Knock on wood, so far my crossflow hasn't been leaking since I redid the gaskets with good old Permatex #2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frizille Posted December 7, 2015 Author Share Posted December 7, 2015 To close this one out, I elected to pay someone with more experience and better shop facilities to fix it for me. Took it to Buckingham Automotive up in Cumming GA, about 35 miles from me. Jeremy (owner) was incredibly helpful and was able to get it fixed easily. He resealed the pan but also remachined the lip a tiny bit to get rid of a few small machining marks in the pan originally. 300 miles since and it's been rock solid, no drips or issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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