yellowss7 Posted March 8, 2016 Posted March 8, 2016 Guys, I'm having some work done on my Orange car, and wondering if any of you have any suggestions for a tool or method to tighten the Crank pulley bolt with the engine in the car connected to the gearbox? The head is off and hopefully it comes back from the machine shop this week. This is a Cosworth Engine with the Keyed Crank. I've read some old California CC posts but the links don't seem to work any longer. Any suggestions appreciated. Tom
Off Road SHO Posted March 9, 2016 Posted March 9, 2016 If the starter is removed, you could fashion a tool that locks into the teeth of the flywheel and bolts to the starter's mounting holes. Tom
TurboWood Posted March 9, 2016 Posted March 9, 2016 I'm not sure what the torque of that bolt is, but for other cars I've always just put it in gear and pulled the hand brake. The drivetrain is usually more than capable of handling whatever torque the crank pulley needs. Mind you I've never done it on a 7 so maybe I'm way off here. Daniel
yellowss7 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Posted March 9, 2016 I have the ARP bolt and their site states 140-145 lb ft. I don't have a handbrake, so could use the brake pedal I guess. The Car has the Sadev sequential with Paddleshifters, so I have to power up to fill up the air tank then the paddles will work. Guess I just have to make sure I don't hit the start button. :svengo: I'd prefer not to have to pull the starter off, if there is a tool that I could use. I've seen this on the Demon Tweeks site. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/tools-workshop/locking-setting-tools/sealey-crank-pulley-holding-tool-ford-1-8-2-0-2-3-16v-duratec-chain-drive-vse5847 Would that work?
Off Road SHO Posted March 9, 2016 Posted March 9, 2016 Well, if your crank pulley has the rubber dampener layer in the middle, anything that you do to hold the outer portion still while you tighten a bolt on the inner portion has a chance of damaging that rubber interface. That linked tool looks like it anchors the center part of the pulley against a frame member or use of a long breaker bar, thereby not torquing that rubber junction. Tom
wemtd Posted March 9, 2016 Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) Tom I think the 2.3 is similar to the 1.9 duratec. you need the crank timing pin tool which inserts on the exhaust side of the engine. you then need special tool (205-126) to hold the crank preventing it from putting pressure on the: (M6 bolt inserted through the crank pulley into the front cover). there is also a special washer between the pulley and crank. you torque it to 100NM ??? and then turn the bolt an additional 90° (nice long piece of black pipe over your breaker bar for torque) - Just noticed yours has a keyed crank... so i assume you may be able to do this with the timing pin tool alone, but that seems like a lot of force to bear? may be worth checking with cosworth I'm not sure you can do it with the engine in the car. I tried once and it wasn't happening for me. cheers. p. Edited March 9, 2016 by wemtd
Off Road SHO Posted March 9, 2016 Posted March 9, 2016 I don't think that tool is for crank timing. There isn't any crank timing to speak of. You time your cams to the crank AFTER that crank bolt is tightened. If you can immobilize your crank with that tool in the link, you can use a cheater bar to get the required torque on the crank bolt. But when doing this, think of the hands of a clock, with that tool as the hour hand resting on a frame member at about 3 O'Clock and your cheater bar starting at about 12:00. This puts the force towards the anchored tool instead of away from it, trying to lift your engine and stretching your engine mounts. Tom
yellowss7 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Posted March 9, 2016 Thanks guys. Once the head comes back and is reinstalled, I'll let you know how I made out. Tom
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