Anti-Roll bar adjustment

[Jesse D]

I have a 1993 Caterham with a De Dion rear and an anti-roll bar. The attached photo is of the driver's side. I would like to be able to adjust the anti-roll setting which is currently on the softest setting. The droplink that connects the axle assembly to the anti-roll bar has threaded rods top and bottom that pass through the anti-roll bar and the axle assembly with nuts on the back side. I have a builder's manual for the car (I didn't build it) so I believe I understand the assembly. When I began to turn the nut on the backside of the anti-roll bar it was clear that the nut and rod were turning together and the threaded rod was backing out of the droplink. My questions are this. First, am I correct that the droplink is unloaded at rest and I can safely back the rod out without damaging anything, and disassemble the other end however it comes undone and fix the threaded shafts into the droplink with loctite so they work correctly. It certainly feels unloaded. Second, is the length of the droplink crucial provided both are the same length. One of the reasons I'm considering adjusting the setting is that the slicks I run when autocrossing rub slightly on the droplink at the anti-roll bar end (you can see the gloss). Shortening the droplink would move it closer to the center of the wheel and away from the fattest portion of the tire- going to a higher setting on the antiroll bar would do the same thing. I'd like to be able to adjust the setting but leave it on softest if that suits the car the best.

 

My thanks for your thoughts.

 

[BruceBe]

You want to set the drop-link lengths with the car loaded (on its wheels), as raced. This will prevent pre-loading the bar. Starting with both links disconnected, connect one and then adjust the other to slip right in. We do this on turn-plates, to ensure the car is completely settled on the suspension. Assuming you've had the car up in the air to remove the links, just roll it forward and backward a few times, for at least 2-3 tire revolutions after putting it back on the ground.

 

Ideally, adjust the link lengths such that the angle between the link and the bar is perpendicular. There will be compromises here.

 

I believe there are thin flats on the link stud, such that you can hold the stud while loosening the nut. You'll need a tappet wrench for that.

 

Cheers,

-Bruce

[Jesse D]

Thanks Bruce, I appreciate the adjustment advice. Unfortunately at this point I'm still in a quandary as to how the droplinks are fastened. Both top and bottom have nylock nuts and nothing protruding more than a hair beyond the nut, so nothing to grip at that end. I'm reluctant to mess with it much given the difficulty of getting any parts right now.

[Dave W]

Look at the very end of the stud. Several stab bar links have an Allen key socket in the stud, used to hold the stud from turning during installation. Dave W

[bball7754]

I added a rear ARB to my '98 probably 10 years ago, so much of the install is a bit hazy. But....I thought I remembered that there was a circlip on the droplink that you could remove and the droplink would come away from the mount (either to the ARB or the rear axle). It was a fast way to remove the ARB when it rained at a trackday.

 

I just found photos from when I installed it, and it shows the circlip. I think if you remove the drop link that way, you may find you can get a wrench on it. You can also see the flats on the bodies of the droplink.

 

Edited April 20, 2020 by bball7754

[Jesse D]

Thank you, the circlips are the answer. No allen wrench holes however. Appreciate the help.