Anyone using Honda S2000 engine

[BusaNostra]

Anyone using Honda S2000 engine?

Just want to get some info.

[Boxologist]

Powderbrake is iirc.

[WestTexasS2K]

All of us Ultralite owners run S2000 drive train. ( well there a few odd balls out there, busa, miata) but majority 70+ of them are S2k units. I will do my best to answer any questions you have.

[BusaNostra]

All of us Ultralite owners run S2000 drive train. ( well there a few odd balls out there, busa, miata) but majority 70+ of them are S2k units. I will do my best to answer any questions you have.

 

A few questions....

What type of engine mount do you use? Did you use the stock s2k mount?

B. Anderson helped me rig the ecu to bypass the interlock system. Do you have any difficulty

wiring the system?

What is this modification do ?

He mentioned in steering and gas tank (sensor)

Are you running with or without catalytic?

Does the engine throw some codes (fault codes)?

I noticed you used different gauges, why not use the s2k stock digital ?

 

As I go along (installing my engine) I might need help from you.

Is this possible?

 

Thank you

 

[Birkin42]

I am shoe horning an S2K into a Birkin, a narrow body car. An very tight fit requiring fame mod's to make it fit.

I don't have anywhere near the room to use the stock S2K engine and transmission mounts. I have bought some universal urethane bushing mounts for the engine and am using a GM transmission mount that I found will fit.

Haven't got to wiring and controls issues yet.

 

Good luck.

[powderbrake]

 

A few questions....

What type of engine mount do you use? Did you use the stock s2k mount?

I don't know, I got them from Brain Anderson

B. Anderson helped me rig the ecu to bypass the interlock system. Do you have any difficulty

wiring the system? Not if you have a Honda manual

What is this modification do ? It eliminates the need for the Honda key which has a chip in it to communicate to the ECU via the radio sensor in the key socket assembly. With the immobilizer bypassed, all you need is the main battery on/off switch.

 

He mentioned in steering and gas tank (sensor) I don't understand the question

Are you running with or without catalytic? I'm running with a cat, with both O2 sensors, so the stock ECU programming is valid

 

Does the engine throw some codes (fault codes)? Don't know, havent checked it, don't care, it runs just fine.

 

I noticed you used different gauges, why not use the s2k stock digital ? The cool Autometer Ultralite gauges came with the kit

 

As I go along (installing my engine) I might need help from you.

Is this possible? Sure, I'll help in any way I can. What I don't know ( which is a lot) Loren ( West Texas S2k) or Chuck ( redrocket) will knowThank you

 

I suggest you obtain a Honda manual, or a cd of the manual ( available on EBay for about $10) It will outline all the wiring you need for the engine. I assume you have the ECU and wire harness on the engine. The manual will help you dope out the wire colors for the connection to the ECU

Replace all the stuff on the wiring diagrams of the fuel pump relay with a simple 12 volt relay from Auto Zone. Supply this relay with 12 volts from the battery, connect the other terminal of the relay coil to Terminal 15 on ECM connector A. This will sink the relay to ground for two seconds when you turn on the power, then shut off the fuel pump until the engine is running, when it will again sink the relay to ground to run the fuel pump.

 

Honda Manual Sections 11-B-10 thru 11-B-13, and 11-B-36 thru 11-B-39 show all the engine connections to the ECU [/color]

Jerry

[WestTexasS2K]

The mounts used on the ultralite are the factory mounts with 55 chevy bushings.

 

Wiring is pretty straight forward. There are only about 6 or 7 wires needed to make it run like a raped ape. I have a wiring diagram that I will be happy to pass along with Brian Andersons go ahead. I know he has put years of work in on it. He has entrusted me with the info and I dont want to cross that line without a go ahead from him.

Brian has found away to modify the ecu to eliminate the immobilizer so once the ecu is modified it just needs battery power to run. Mine is hooked up to my battery switch. It effects no other operation and simplifies the wiring.

 

You will get a few codes if you hook up a scan tool. Emissions pump error and something else but thats it. I have the OBD II plug on mine helps with trouble shooting but most dont have it.

 

I have run with and without cat. on stock ecu no difference as far as I can tell. Now I only run the primary O2 sensor because I am running AEM ecu now.

 

Stock cluster should work it is just more factroy wiring that you have to sort thru It can be done if that is what you want. I am running a Mycron III by AIM it does track mapping lap times programable channels and other freaky things.

 

I will be glad to help you anyway possible. I have wired a couple of these over the phone so I should be able to help you out if you get in a bind. I would also suggest you get the factory service manual. It helps out quite a bit. There is a factory wiring manual too. It has more info than the standard service manual. It is harder to find though.

[BusaNostra]

pOWDERBRAKE - westtexass2k

THANK YOU BOTH!!

 

I appreciate your help...very much indeed!

I droped the engine and still eyeballing the position and the fitness of the hood.

Plenty of room side by side and in the front but a bit of tight in the shifter tunnel.

 

Brian helped me out and modified my ECU (nice helpful guy).

I think he gave me some tips on the wiring.

 

I will be in touch!

I have bunch of cuts and bruises installing the engine. Its like a feet size 9 fitting to a size 6 shoes.

[WestTexasS2K]

Yeah that six speed is a big chunk of aluminum but it shifts so fine. You are going to love that engine the first time you hit the vtec at 6000 hold on because 9000 is coming quick. Better have it pointed in the direction you want to go when you do it. And you just cant beat the reliability. I have run mine hard without a hick up from the engine.

[BusaNostra]

Yeah that six speed is a big chunk of aluminum but it shifts so fine. You are going to love that engine the first time you hit the vtec at 6000 hold on because 9000 is coming quick. Better have it pointed in the direction you want to go when you do it. And you just cant beat the reliability. I have run mine hard without a hick up from the engine.

 

Westtexas-----> do I need to wire the clutch switch to start the Honda s2000 engine?

[WestTexasS2K]

No I have the the ignition wired to a CB and it is activated when you turn on the battery switch. The starter is wired directly to the push button on the dash. Mine will crank over even without the battery switch on. Now if you want to add a little saftey to it where the clutch has to be engaged to crank that will be fine just more wiring to figure out.

[BusaNostra]

No I have the the ignition wired to a CB and it is activated when you turn on the battery switch. The starter is wired directly to the push button on the dash. Mine will crank over even without the battery switch on. Now if you want to add a little saftey to it where the clutch has to be engaged to crank that will be fine just more wiring to figure out.

 

West----are you guys using a dry sump?

If you are not, how much clearance do you have from the ground to the oil pan?

If you are using a dry sump, where do I buy this?

 

Thanks a million

[powderbrake]

 

West----are you guys using a dry sump?

If you are not, how much clearance do you have from the ground to the oil pan?

If you are using a dry sump, where do I buy this?

 

Thanks a million

 

I am running about 2 3/4 to 3" ground clearance on a stock Honda pan. I do not have a dry sump, it is a stock Honda engine. I am not sure of Loren's setup.

[BusaNostra]

 

I am running about 2 3/4 to 3" ground clearance on a stock Honda pan. I do not have a dry sump, it is a stock Honda engine. I am not sure of Loren's setup.

 

Thanks powder-----do you run into problem @ 3" clearance?

 

thanks

[slngsht]

I have a different engine with 3" of ground clearance... you'll have to worry about speed bumps, but general driving is OK.

[WestTexasS2K]

3.5" ground clearance for me too. I have not had a problem driving with that clearance. Just as slngsht said watch for speed bumps. I have scraped the pan a few times but no real problems. It is possible to cut the pan down a bit for more clearance if you desire. There are a few dry sumps on the net but research it a bunch if you go that route. The S2000 pumps 100L per min in Vtec mode to the head. People who have done dry sumps have not been able to get Vtec to work because of the wrong pump size. So you will really need to team up with a pump builder to get your pressure stage, and scavage stages sized appropiatley. It get real expensive when you have to redo a dry sump set up more than once.

[BusaNostra]

3.5" ground clearance for me too. I have not had a problem driving with that clearance. Just as slngsht said watch for speed bumps. I have scraped the pan a few times but no real problems. It is possible to cut the pan down a bit for more clearance if you desire. There are a few dry sumps on the net but research it a bunch if you go that route. The S2000 pumps 100L per min in Vtec mode to the head. People who have done dry sumps have not been able to get Vtec to work because of the wrong pump size. So you will really need to team up with a pump builder to get your pressure stage, and scavage stages sized appropiatley. It get real expensive when you have to redo a dry sump set up more than once.

 

I'm glad you told me about the 100l per mil and the dry sump pump.

If you guys running at 3" clearance, then I will do the same. The dry sump is way too expensive.

Toda sell them for $10,000 !!! outrageous.

 

Thanks again

[powderbrake]

3.5" ground clearance for me too. I have not had a problem driving with that clearance. Just as slngsht said watch for speed bumps. I have scraped the pan a few times but no real problems. It is possible to cut the pan down a bit for more clearance if you desire. There are a few dry sumps on the net but research it a bunch if you go that route. The S2000 pumps 100L per min in Vtec mode to the head. People who have done dry sumps have not been able to get Vtec to work because of the wrong pump size. So you will really need to team up with a pump builder to get your pressure stage, and scavage stages sized appropiatley. It get real expensive when you have to redo a dry sump set up more than once.

 

Loren: I had talked to Chuck and got the same 100L per minute number from him. As I told him, I have a difficult time accepting that volume of flow. The Honda pump puts put around 80 or 100 psi, and is regulated to 75 psi at running rpm. At 75 psi, how can you flow 100 liters a minute ( 25 gallons per minute) through a pipe which can be no bigger than about 3/8 inch ID? That's enough to almost fill a 55 gallon drum in two minutes!!!

 

Heck, your faucet on your house is running at maybe 40 or 50 psi, and has a 1/2 inch pipe supplying it, and it's viscosity is much lower than oil, and it can barely flow 4 or 5 gallons per minute.

 

I am not doubting your word, it's just that a 25 gal per minute pump is one big pump. That's 3200 cubic inches per minute, which at 6000 rpm where the v-tech kicks in, it will require 1/2 cubic inch per revoultion. Gear pumps with that capacity per revolution have 1" diameter pipes.

 

Another way to look at it is at 100L /min, it will empty the 4 quart sump in 2 1/2 seconds. I can't imagine the oil flowing back down into the sump by gravity alone being able to return to the sump that fast. I looked in my Honda manual, and coud not find any oil pump flow specifications, so I can't offer any data here.

 

I am agreeing with you on the need to be careful in determining the dry sump pump size, depending on the flow requirements of the engine.

[WestTexasS2K]

Jerry good points attached is an the site the info cam from. http://www.speedracersportscars.com.au/PRBS2K.htm This where we got the 100l/min from.

[Birkin42]

My Honda factory service manual states the stock internal oil pump's capacity as 58.4 L/min at 6000 rpm and it's pressure limit as 85 psi at 3000 rpm. I have a hard time believing that the factory manual is wrong and the actual pump output is 100 L/min.

Based on my industrial hydraulics experience, for the 100L/min the recommended line size ID would be nearly 3/4" on pressure side (this is based on a recommende 20 ft/min max velocity, hydrualic oil viscosity, and typical hydraulic system pressures of 1000 psi and up). The recommended suction line size would be a wopping 1-5/8" ID. I know the stock Honda oil passages are smaller on both accounts. By comparison, the line sizes would be 9/16" and 1-1/4" for the 58.4 L/min. The 9/16" seems to closer match the stock engine.

I am dry sumping my engine, but a still a long way off getting to the point where I know whether I've sized the pump and belt drive ratio correct. I used the info from the service manual to size the pump. I figured this was safer then basing it on unconfirmed information. I have the flexibility in my setup to speed the pump up and get significantly more flow out of it if required, but hopefully it will work correctly as intended.