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Closed PVC/CCV system with Duratec?


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I'm starting the registration for my new 420R build in California- the dreaded SB100 process. It's come to my attention that I must have a fully closed PCV system. Currently I have the RBTB intake which has no provision for this. I could go back to the stock intake plenum for initial inspection, then switch back. I see that there is a bung on the underside of the stock plenum presumable for this purpose. Has anyone hooked this up? In reading on other forums about this issue (mostly on kit cobras) they speak of having to run another connection into the air filter in addition to the one in the plenum. I'm not sure how I can accomplish this.

 

How are people accomplishing this on the California builds?

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As someone building an ITB induction Caterham in CA, I am interested to know this too. Sounds like I may need to put a bung in the air filter backplate for the inspection. I'm not familiar with the RBTB intake, but it sounds like a massive pain to have to switch to a plenum intake to pass - do you have ECU maps for both plenum and RBTB?

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I only have one ECU - I have to get it re-flashed to switch intakes. I am also thinking about putting a bung on the backplate to avoid having to switch intakes. I'm not sure what the BAR will accept given the 420R dry sump system. 

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So I don't want to hijack the conversation but I have a Birkin that will be turning up here in 3-4 weeks is this  "fully closed PCV system" something I will need to be concerned about?

 

Is this something I should ask to have addressed before the car ships? I was shooting for the same performance as a 420R but if that's not gonna pass an SB100 registration should I assume I wont.

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When I was building my Birkin/ 2.3l Duratec,  I was advised that I would need a vapor return to the intake. When I routed the vent line from the rear of the cam cover, I ran it through a catch can and from there to a nylon fitting in the air filter backing plate between the 1 & 2 ITBs.  I figured that I could easily remove it after certification was complete. To my surprise, however, it does capture some moisture from the vent process.

 

The reality is that most of us don’t drive these cars frequently or often enough to prevent and/or “cook off” moisture buildup in the crankcase. In 5,000 mi. I haven’t seen any measurable evidence of oil mist or buildup inside the backing plate. I periodically drain the catch can and get maybe ¾ oz of beige foam and oil. I really like bone dry motors and view that as one indicator of a successful build. 
 

Now if this was an R-1350, an oil burn of LESS than a gallon per hour would warrant concern (22 gallon oil tank). Part of the Pratt & Whitney corrosion prevention program.

 

 

 

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The final inspection on my car took place at El Camino College in LA with an experienced auto mechanics teacher. An absolute breeze. He remarked that hardly anyone presents an SB100 car that is shabbily built. I don’t even think he even noticed the vent system I had worked so hard on. The bonnet was off for maybe a minute.

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Picture #1, cam cover to catch can

 

Picture #2, catch can, two lines in, one from the cam cover and one from the stock crankcase vent plate. The third line goes to the intake backing plate.

 

Picture #3, intake backing plate fitting.

 

  The catch can was probably $10 on eBay and included the fittings. I added a lever operated drain valve on the bottom. All of the other hoses are silicone.

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