IamScotticus Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 I have seen several ways to route, or not route, the coolant line that runs from the head to the water pump inlet, with or without a heater installed. I have seen: * the coolant pump port capped. * the coolant pump port run to an elevated header tank (with a top radiator bleeder line run to the tank) *The head coolant outlet port run to the coolant pump without a heater in between. I am very interested in learning what has worked for you guys. As for my car the ports are capped but I'm not opposed to doing something with that head coolant flow if it improves cooling. No, I'm not installing a heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Westfield Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 (edited) option 2 header tank on firewall bottom of tank to pump port port on manifold plugged couple of 1/8 holes in thermostat bleeder from top of water outlet to top of header tank Edited July 27, 2022 by 7Westfield 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 2 hours ago, IamScotticus said: I have seen several ways to route, or not route, the coolant line that runs from the head to the water pump inlet, with or without a heater installed. I have seen: * the coolant pump port capped. * the coolant pump port run to an elevated header tank (with a top radiator bleeder line run to the tank) *The head coolant outlet port run to the coolant pump without a heater in between. I am very interested in learning what has worked for you guys. As for my car the ports are capped but I'm not opposed to doing something with that head coolant flow if it improves cooling. No, I'm not installing a heater. With either capped, there needs to be another path for some bypass flow around the closed stat during warm up. Drilling the stat or looping the htr circuit with a hose but restrict the flow with a drilled plug or a washer at one end. Similar to Westfield7, I'd block the pump port, drill the stat, fit an NPT to male AN manifold for an AN6 to 1/2 inch pushloc hose elbow (with a floating nut so the pipe can be indexed before tightening), then add a cushion clamp to the engine at the rear, but no bleeder line on the water neck with the higher tank feed. I'd fit a larger tank to mostly fill. If that proved not to be adequate, completely fill it for more coolant mass with an overflow bottle for expansion. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Westfield Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 2 hours ago, MV8 said: With either capped, there needs to be another path for some bypass flow around the closed stat during warm up. Drilling the stat or looping the htr circuit with a hose but restrict the flow with a drilled plug or a washer at one end. Similar to Westfield7, I'd block the pump port, drill the stat, fit an NPT to male AN manifold for an AN6 to 1/2 inch pushloc hose elbow (with a floating nut so the pipe can be indexed before tightening), then add a cushion clamp to the engine at the rear, but no bleeder line on the water neck with the higher tank feed. I'd fit a larger tank to mostly fill. If that proved not to be adequate, completely fill it for more coolant mass with an overflow bottle for expansio Formula Fords have run for 50 years with no bypass and if you have a heater installed, and the valve is closed........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted July 28, 2022 Author Share Posted July 28, 2022 1 hour ago, 7Westfield said: Formula Fords have run for 50 years with no bypass and if you have a heater installed, and the valve is closed........ Exactly. What is the advantage of running a line to a header? I can see filling and bleeding benefits. But is all the extra plumbing really necessary? Do Xflows run better with a bypass circuit? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 8 hours ago, 7Westfield said: Formula Fords have run for 50 years with no bypass and if you have a heater installed, and the valve is closed........ Why would they if there is no stat installed for warm up? Do you think a cable controlled heater valve completely blocks coolant flow? Bypasses have been used for more than 50 years. Sometimes they are internal and not obvious. Happy to share examples. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Westfield Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 the top line to the header makes filling so much easier with holes in stat, the air comes out much better every manual heater valve I've used will close completely off to the races for the weekend I'll ask our engine builder if there is any internal bypass in a Kent, but I don't think so in vintage racing, most people are running stats in Kents it just makes everything simpler no need to worry about correct restrictor, or how much radiator to tape up 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 Obviously, drilled holes in a stat is a bypass. No stat would only slightly improve flow since the main restriction is the size of the holes in the head gasket, but traditionally, stats have been a common failure part that wasn't necessary, like vacuum advance. I don't think there is an internal bypass like on the mgb. If they aren't bypassing at all, that sets up hot spots throughout until the stat starts opening. A little flow spreads the heat for more even expansion and less chance of cracking. With no bypass, conservative running until warm can minimize eventual problems. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted July 29, 2022 Author Share Posted July 29, 2022 The kent is notorious for overheating. But it wasn't such an issue on thousands of production road cars...Which all had heater bypasses. On my car, I have this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted July 29, 2022 Share Posted July 29, 2022 (edited) Different, but in case it helps the pre-crossflows did not utilize a t-stat. When I got mine a prior owner had installed one at the swirlpot inlet, presumably to quicken warmup. I was noticing some borderline overheating and checked then changed the t-stat (drilling the new one) with limited impact, so ultimately just removed it since its real purposes is keeping temps above a certain level, not below any level. Doing so did seem to reduce/eliminate spikes, though, presumably just because all restriction was removed and the system flowing as intended. I just have to be a bit more patient warming it up. Even in hot weather and in town, I don't see temp rises approaching a worry point. Edited July 29, 2022 by SENC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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