7Westfield

I own an 85, and I know of one other out of that original group over here There was a race shop in Minnesota that built a few of them over the winter, in order to keep the staff busy. I hope to run into him at a race this year, and ask about them. Interestingly, there was a discussion recently on the WSCC forum about front control arms, and it was pointed out that the second model, the SE, was what started all the legal flap. So, maybe ours are pre-pre-lits? LOL

fairly easy job I've also got an adapter I made years ago, by knocking the guts out of an old spark plug, and welding on a quick disconnect to match my air hoses

I tow a friend's Formula Ford in a similar trailer. I load it as far back as possible. Then several hundred lbs of "stuff" goes in cabinet at the front, and a rack above the car, roughly at the trailer axles. Never weighed it, but my guess is 4000 +/-. Towed w/ Suburban 2500 When I load the 7, it goes a bit farther forward, with the rear straps crossed in an X pattern. We just use a fixed length loop thru each front a-arm, and ratchets at the back I'd say start with the nose a foot from the front of the trailer, and work from there. When he quits racing later this year, I'll be using my little open trailer for the 7, prob just put a hitch on the Accord over the years, I've found the Sub to be real picky about rear tires. Get a set with weak sidewalls, and it can dance in a crosswind

Can you pull the dash, and go at it from that side? My Westy has the same number of rivets, and the silicone no way I'm ever going to take that apart but the dash comes right out

You have it backwards....flow is OUT to the heater from the intake manifold and back in at the pump fitting Using the gasket with no hole will be fine for no heater Just put a plug in the manifold, and another in the pump If you ever want to put the heater back, you'll just need a new gasket. Gaskets are still out there with holes, you can find the Fel-Pros online, and there are others or just punch a hole Formula Fords all seal that hole to keep the manifold cooler, we used to cut a piece of pop can and glue it in there to cover it before the newer gaskets came

Glad you found it, sounds like the KISS principle never made it to England

just stuff the tank with fuel cell foam, and switch to a tube type fuel level sender?

FWIW it will work on 4 cylinders, just double the 8 cyl reading

retroford lists one if you're willing to play all the tariff games

The only pix I found of a Duratec DS were belt drive... I hate to ask the obvious, but are you sure you have a dry sump system? Do you have a separate oil tank? Post a pic of your engine bay. The only case I know of a doubled "stock" pump is on air cooled VWs, they piggyback a second rotor on the front end. Hard to see enough room inside most engines to do that

There was a post on Westfield site a while back large one is 3/4 BSP small is either 1/2 or 5/8 BSP got a hydraulic repair shop near you? Pegasus has Dowty seals

Looks normal to me.....

Racetech has a 80mm unit I got mine from Burton, surely someone over here has them Mine is wired to the transmission, but I'm sure you can put a GPS sender on it

How does stated value come in play (if at all) if you are not at fault? If you get hit, and totaled, does having SV policy require the other party to pay that value?

That one is 14" long also comes in 18 + 22"

This is what I use with my xflow https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-10444#overview it's not TOO obnoxious I use the cheap foam earplugs from HF I tried a set of muffs, but not as good. My muffs seem to be biased toward higher freqs, not so good down low I don't use them around town, but more than 10 miles on the highway I have them in

I run Redline MTL in my T9

As I (dimly) recall, the old SCCA classes for Spridgets were FP GP HP, based mostly on engine choice Run a bugeye with a 948 in HP or throw in a 1275 and run FP So, a 948 7 in F makes sense Smaller, lighter chassis means a higher class

I know a 90 year old Formula Ford driver

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And, just to toss another variable into the mix... THE type 3 I took out had a cable op clutch, and there was a bump on the inside of the footwell by my ankle for the end of the release arm. The arm on the T9 setup would not have fit, I went with concentric hydraulic, I used the BH3 bellhousing from Burton, and cut away some of the left side starter mount for clearance

reach out to HealeyRacer from a couple of his posts, he seems to be a long time A-series addict

First off, I've not worked on an A series since the 70's, in my bugeye I thought it looked like front, left corner above the pan ahead of the pump? there was also mention of racers back in the day putting 1098 heads on 948 blocks I'll see if I can relocate the article edit try this page https://www.mgexp.com/article/bmc-a-series-engine-codes.313 not the one I saw earlier, but looks helpful Minimania might have something, but I can't get on their site today It seems that for the early engines, they used a system where the number was the size group and letters were sub groups so 8xx was anything in the 800-900cc range, and 9xx was the 900-1000 group

Found this on a google search They say 9J for 948

It's a type 3 / 2000e I have a spare bellhousing from a type 3, which should fit, but not ready to sell just yet Burton has an aluminum one, but it's $400, plus tariffs, etc get a Burton catalog...lots of good pics and info try Dave Bean maybe Ken has something