7Westfield

Interesting that it has K L in the number I thought K was for a Ford Kent engine, and L for LHD that's how mine is Being #6, I wonder if it's the oldest Westfield "7" left out there

have you tried GMT Racing? gmtracing.com

BTW it was Caterham that sued Westfield

Welcome interesting car...lots of differences compared to mine...chassis # in the 70's Do you know if it was built here, or brought in done? I don't know when they started selling them here, but #6 would seem too early for a kit. Too bad they painted all the aluminum strange front fender setup, looks more like a copy of a Lotus 6 different headlight mounts and rear roll bar mounts evolution in action! is it LHD or RHD? I can't really tell from pics what type of wheels? those look like mine--Mistrals I'm guessing a BMC A-series powertrain? join the Westfield club wscc.co.uk

If you install a roll bar tall enough to do any good, it will be taller than your top frame. Here's pic of my Westfield stock bar. It's 16" tall, and doubles as top frame. I had to build a taller one when I used the car for my vintage driver school in 1993. It's 22" tall, so there's no way to put the top over it. If it will do you any good, I can probably have it -the tall one- in Appleton in November

crossflow should be 1/2-20 hope they didn't bugger the threads

The Westfield has 2 little stubs that stick out about an inch, and the rig bolts on over them. I just built a shorter one to hold the plate, and can switch back if needed

because you don't drive the type of car Gavin & Co like LOL

I-80 is about 1250 feet in Lincoln

A few years ago, I added a beeper to mine, because the light was right behind the top of the steering wheel. Had the same issue Fixed it with a pair of diodes feeding the buzzer, one from each side

All British show in Kansas City yesterday from the right Russ's brit built locost my Westfield 7 a real S2 "America" locost project w/Miata donor locost w/ GM v6

I couldn't find a diagram of the steering column in an S2, but if it's like my Westfield, you'll have difficulties. The wheel is too close to the dash for any QD adapter I've used. And, there's a flange welded to the end, that the wheel bolts onto, which would need to be cut off, and the wheel will end up closer to you. If I were doing it, I'd certainly fab a new shaft to mount the QD on, and not muck up the original check the ID of the QD, you might have to sleeve it to fit the shaft

FWIW you can get valve covers without a hole/cap Burton has them pricey Dave Bean or Ivey ??

this is similar to the can I used on mine mount it as high as possible https://www.ebay.com/itm/286815733808?_skw=oil+catch+can&itmmeta=01M0DPEJP41N0H19G0E1EH6CAT&hash=item42c78cc830:g:9LcAAOSwQuFkEXpI&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDvAUbi4%2FCnjDXpZqkVb1vQelnDIxAnNV%2BwJKZvcVbLyVoySB96KTaDMxkd8rQwn%2Fzabj%2B56mc8DNsyef%2FC22q5CTCr0lkgAJ86DmVfVNX85TEJxY2raRpAHUkrLLeecOUUr18N%2F7BJeaIU00RWnOoQLId%2BIvczoabQmBiJKRgCaJtuzuSuUIiqnTOpHihUMWfzNIoqMleUKQJ87lyvab4s%2FLfB1Lk6aI1xi%2BCnF6FFRRVq83CqO0Vlq1CtgW18qWM%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUMqruraDaA

go for it that's how mine is vented, and also most of the Formula Fords in the world it's probably 1/2" npt or maybe 3/8

Handbrake on Westfield was mounted on side of tunnel, dug into my thigh I switched to electric, with a fleabay linear accuator Too slow for "emergency" but fine for "parking"

just stitched a loop on

Barely... I took a silver Menards tarp. backed it with some cloth upholstery fabric I had on hand. and added loops for ratchet straps Def not pretty. but it's only for trailering, and I avoided installing any snaps

Agreed I dug out my tonneau a couple of weeks ago, and checked it's fit----or lack thereof mind you, this is 40 years old, and NEVER installed from the "roll" bar to the rear end, it was about 1.5" short I didn't even check it going forward I didn't check the top why bother? I'm making a new one to keep crap out when on the trailer

the cog setup Pegasus sells is for FF only 30 tooth crank pulley and 44 on the pump, and they don't have anything for the alternator I doubt if the pump does anything below 2000 rpm I have the Burton v-belt pulley on mine, and it's fine stock pump + alt pulleys Burton do have a cog setup that includes the alternator, but I don't know the ratios

fun fact about the mechanical fuel pumps on these if you remove the pump, be sure when re-installing that it sits square with the block before you tighten it down if one side doesn't go all the way down, try again it means the lever is not on the cam lobe, but off to the side DON'T use the nuts to pull it down bad things happen if you force it if the pump has a cast top section with the brass nipples in it, those must be replaced with threaded fittings--at least on the output side they have a habit of popping out and spraying fuel everywhere it happened on a friend's FF H*** of a mess when it lit off same for the inlet on a DGV SCCA mandated that YEARS ago

EDIT previous post only one spacer/cushion per bolt, as in SENC's photo you got 8, so you're good duh I welded a bung into the side of a 90 degree bend in my lower hose, but one of those splice things would do fine I can get a pic later if you want did it 30 years ago, so don't recall where bung came from, but it's an early VW Rabbit switch just have see what sensor will fit your particular bung that's the right fuel pump block

Pegasus doesn't have v-belt pulleys theirs are for cog belts, so you have to change both pulleys and then you have an alternator problem...........and they are a serious underdrive--to much for a street car on any of the Fords, pre or crossflow, the factory fuel pump spacer is mandatory--it positions the pump lever correctly on the cam, and insulates it

I think you're stuck with the single o-ring setup, since you have the grooves in the manifold Hopefully you got 8 of the grommet sets-use 2 on each bolt instructions with mine said tighten them so there's about a mm between the washers puller fans are better, in my experience mount it against the rad, and seal around the perimeter of the rad to the nose as well as you can a pusher fan turned around is not as effective as one designed to pull I have the fan switch in the lower hose, controlling the fan thru a relay with always hot power-fan runs maybe 5 minutes after shutdown if your sensor is in the engine, use switched power

I was referring to something I posted