7Westfield

I couldn't find a diagram of the steering column in an S2, but if it's like my Westfield, you'll have difficulties. The wheel is too close to the dash for any QD adapter I've used. And, there's a flange welded to the end, that the wheel bolts onto, which would need to be cut off, and the wheel will end up closer to you. If I were doing it, I'd certainly fab a new shaft to mount the QD on, and not muck up the original check the ID of the QD, you might have to sleeve it to fit the shaft

FWIW you can get valve covers without a hole/cap Burton has them pricey Dave Bean or Ivey ??

this is similar to the can I used on mine mount it as high as possible https://www.ebay.com/itm/286815733808?_skw=oil+catch+can&itmmeta=01M0DPEJP41N0H19G0E1EH6CAT&hash=item42c78cc830:g:9LcAAOSwQuFkEXpI&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDvAUbi4%2FCnjDXpZqkVb1vQelnDIxAnNV%2BwJKZvcVbLyVoySB96KTaDMxkd8rQwn%2Fzabj%2B56mc8DNsyef%2FC22q5CTCr0lkgAJ86DmVfVNX85TEJxY2raRpAHUkrLLeecOUUr18N%2F7BJeaIU00RWnOoQLId%2BIvczoabQmBiJKRgCaJtuzuSuUIiqnTOpHihUMWfzNIoqMleUKQJ87lyvab4s%2FLfB1Lk6aI1xi%2BCnF6FFRRVq83CqO0Vlq1CtgW18qWM%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUMqruraDaA

go for it that's how mine is vented, and also most of the Formula Fords in the world it's probably 1/2" npt or maybe 3/8

Handbrake on Westfield was mounted on side of tunnel, dug into my thigh I switched to electric, with a fleabay linear accuator Too slow for "emergency" but fine for "parking"

just stitched a loop on

Barely... I took a silver Menards tarp. backed it with some cloth upholstery fabric I had on hand. and added loops for ratchet straps Def not pretty. but it's only for trailering, and I avoided installing any snaps

Agreed I dug out my tonneau a couple of weeks ago, and checked it's fit----or lack thereof mind you, this is 40 years old, and NEVER installed from the "roll" bar to the rear end, it was about 1.5" short I didn't even check it going forward I didn't check the top why bother? I'm making a new one to keep crap out when on the trailer

the cog setup Pegasus sells is for FF only 30 tooth crank pulley and 44 on the pump, and they don't have anything for the alternator I doubt if the pump does anything below 2000 rpm I have the Burton v-belt pulley on mine, and it's fine stock pump + alt pulleys Burton do have a cog setup that includes the alternator, but I don't know the ratios

fun fact about the mechanical fuel pumps on these if you remove the pump, be sure when re-installing that it sits square with the block before you tighten it down if one side doesn't go all the way down, try again it means the lever is not on the cam lobe, but off to the side DON'T use the nuts to pull it down bad things happen if you force it if the pump has a cast top section with the brass nipples in it, those must be replaced with threaded fittings--at least on the output side they have a habit of popping out and spraying fuel everywhere it happened on a friend's FF H*** of a mess when it lit off same for the inlet on a DGV SCCA mandated that YEARS ago

EDIT previous post only one spacer/cushion per bolt, as in SENC's photo you got 8, so you're good duh I welded a bung into the side of a 90 degree bend in my lower hose, but one of those splice things would do fine I can get a pic later if you want did it 30 years ago, so don't recall where bung came from, but it's an early VW Rabbit switch just have see what sensor will fit your particular bung that's the right fuel pump block

Pegasus doesn't have v-belt pulleys theirs are for cog belts, so you have to change both pulleys and then you have an alternator problem...........and they are a serious underdrive--to much for a street car on any of the Fords, pre or crossflow, the factory fuel pump spacer is mandatory--it positions the pump lever correctly on the cam, and insulates it

I think you're stuck with the single o-ring setup, since you have the grooves in the manifold Hopefully you got 8 of the grommet sets-use 2 on each bolt instructions with mine said tighten them so there's about a mm between the washers puller fans are better, in my experience mount it against the rad, and seal around the perimeter of the rad to the nose as well as you can a pusher fan turned around is not as effective as one designed to pull I have the fan switch in the lower hose, controlling the fan thru a relay with always hot power-fan runs maybe 5 minutes after shutdown if your sensor is in the engine, use switched power

I was referring to something I posted

the square bolt adjuster was on, among others, MGB rear drums also, early sprites (front) used a snail type adjuster between the piston and end of shoe I've never seen the type pictured here---any idea where they were borrowed?

posted in wrong thread

Oh yeah massive diff between springs, new ones are MUCH lighter it's actually usable now

Also remember that tha brazing on these was probably not done as we consider brazing over here It was done with an uncoated rod and a fluxor unit that puts the flux into the gas line The coated rods don't give the strength or nice appearance of that process

well, the springs don't look like factory items the ends aren't finished as they should be, they look like they were cut down from longer ones I wonder if somebody put in stiffer ones to disable the system Also, they told me the Italian carbs use a lighter spring than later ones

OK just got a scale to check the pull around 5 pounds on each lever!!!! a couple of pounds on each piston no binding evident just talked to Pierce, best guess is massively wrong springs in the pistons, so a new set is on the way not the first FUBAR I've found in this set.....

front left corner probably behind the alternator bracket If you're ever over at Rich's, look at the motor in his Dulon

I've ordered a trigger scale, we'll see what that shows As little as it's needed, I might just do the delete option, but then I'd have to figure out what to do with the hole in the dash--maybe just an unused mystery switch

John is still there, but I've lost his number I'll get back to you edit google sez FB or 262-740-0180

Scott I've got it all hooked up correctly I'm just looking to reduce the effort to pull the knob, wondering if there is any reason not to remove that coil spring around the actuating lever Even with the start gizmo off the carb, it has a lot more spring pressure than I expected doesn't seem to be gummed up or anything, just a lot more spring than needed

The "choke" cable on my Westy takes way more force to pull than I like, even with a new cable. The issue seems to be the enrichment units themselves. I don't know how stiff the spring action on them should be, but these are stouter than I'd like, but no sign of binding, etc. Can I just remove that external coil spring? I've not tried yet because it looks like you have to cut them to remove, and not sold as replacement parts. You have to buy the whole block for stupid money. I took one off, and the pistons it raises seem to have a spring load of their own, so it seems removing the external one would be OK Very rare that I use it, but, if it's there I'd like it to work