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First day on the road


Alex-Ks1

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I finally got my car done , had to do a lot of tweeking on some things , the throttle is a bit sticky . Maybe a stronger spring .

But when I backed it out of my shop ,it had balls , lots of big shiny balls , so down the road I went. Very slow at first , just off idle 

Then pushed it a little harder , this car is scary fast , the rear end tried to meet the front end . Letting of the gas ,, then a bit more even push on the gas peddle and it was off like a scalded cat , again it's scary fast . Who wants to live forever

    So I turned into rout 50 and hit it , the GPS speedO said I was doing 125 and I'm still in third gear ,going into 4th . Damn fast 

Much faster than I expected . Again scary fast  , I'll drive it a while and put it up for sale .The whole project was to see if I could do it and I did .I'm not here to impress any one , some will say this isn't true to form , or that's not right .I can care less what people say or think 

 

 

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Took it out again and did city driving ,I could only use 1st gear , it's just to damn fast in any other up gearing , so around town I went .

Stopped to fill the gas tank and had everyone asking this and that , and a few asked. HOW MUCH TO SELL IT  lolol one day out and it's about to get sold , probley not , I'll keep it a while ,  After I gassed up and started it , with no mufflers at all , flames shot out of the pipes 

Two feet from the gas pump , have to think about refilling it ,,

 

 

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More photos  the one showing the hood upside down has a frame work in place and the wood is the matching upper contour of the sheet metal when it's rolled and welded in place . Must  have had that on and off 20 times to get it right , then 1/2 inch square tubing is welded to the sheet metal then the long Steele lower hood braces , this makes it very rigid , think I gonna hold it down with leather belts and buckles .

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There is a formula for this engine with big cam performance valve job, a sort of header . I did all the engine rebuild , it was blue printed to very tight specks 

It's estimated at 265 HP  rebuilt the T 5 trans and rear end it has a 3.08 gear . I through more Chinese crap in the trash that actually went on it , so much was just no good ,

 

 

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The car has a weird problem , when you push on the gas peddels it's not really smooth so the car leaps forward , when I take the cable out from the gas peddle it's as smooth as silk , put backing and it's hard pushing , and every time I do this I have to remove the steering wheel.

The cable has one bend  coming from the bulk head then a turn going between the clutch and brake masters then along the side to the carb.  take the cable all the way apart and the inner core falls out , nice and smooth , put it back together and it's sticky , people I have talked with this about haven't a clue what is wrong .Neither do I , maybe a larger diameter cable , this one is very small in diameter .

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Alex-Ks1 said:

The car has a weird problem , when you push on the gas peddels it's not really smooth so the car leaps forward , when I take the cable out from the gas peddle it's as smooth as silk , put backing and it's hard pushing , and every time I do this I have to remove the steering wheel.

The cable has one bend  coming from the bulk head then a turn going between the clutch and brake masters then along the side to the carb.  take the cable all the way apart and the inner core falls out , nice and smooth , put it back together and it's sticky , people I have talked with this about haven't a clue what is wrong .Neither do I , maybe a larger diameter cable , this one is very small in diameter .

 

 

 

 

Does it do it only when hot or when cold too?

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Would you post some photos of the cable at the pedal end and the routing?

What is the cable source?

I'm guessing the bend radius is too tight. Sometimes, if the engine throttle and pedal are too close, a much longer cable that loops will work better. You may be able to reverse the direction of pull at the carb or pedal for less cable bend.

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3 hours ago, Alex-Ks1 said:

It does it when it's not running or when it's running . I ordered a larger diameter cable , maybe that will help

It sounds like there cable and housing don't have a smooth and kink-free path from the pedal to the intake. Buy a good teflon lined bicycle brake cable and make sure that there are no tight bends or kinks and I'll bet that will take care of it.

 

dave

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I  can take the cable hold it up and the inner core will fall to the floor. no kinks any where, no bends, free as a bird when  its not hooked up .

 reinstall it and it binds, only 2 slight bends on the cable housing, and there not hard bends, I know better. Like I posted, its a small diameter cable housing, maybe a larger diameter will do the trick, already ordered one.   

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4 hours ago, Alex-Ks1 said:

I  can take the cable hold it up and the inner core will fall to the floor. no kinks any where, no bends, free as a bird when  its not hooked up .

 reinstall it and it binds, only 2 slight bends on the cable housing, and there not hard bends, I know better. Like I posted, its a small diameter cable housing, maybe a larger diameter will do the trick, already ordered one.   

I seriously doubt that a change in diameter will have any effect.

If the cable slides through the housing without drag that leaves a few other possibilities -

 

 - the pivot on the gas pedal is binding

 - the cable is dragging on the hole where it passes through the firewall

 - a fitting at either end of the housing is tight or has a burr and the cable is dragging though it

 - the throttle body on the intake is biding

 - the place where the cast-on cable end pivots in the gas pedal or throttle body binds and won't pivot freely

 - there's a burr where the outer housing of the cable was cut to length

 

In the end it's a simple system where small parts slide or pivot under load and something is binding. Go from one end of the system to the other - you'll find it.

 

dave

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