Jump to content

Davemk1

Registered User
  • Content Count

    523
  • Joined

Everything posted by Davemk1

  1. The max allowable weight for a Seven to feel like a Seven is an interesting question. Before I built my Westfield (1220 lbs) I owned a supercharged Lotus Elise (1900 lbs) and while compared to most anything else on the road the Elise felt light it feels heavy compared to my Seven....which of course it is. Both are seriously quick and fun but they are different. What I wonder about is how light could an electric Seven be made. My Westfield has an S2000 engine and trans and they are not light and heavier than most 4 cylinder cars would have. On the other hand an electric motor would
  2. A sincere question.....how much do you think a Seven could weigh before it loses it's agility? dave
  3. The 13" tire will give a nice ride on the rough stuff due to the taller sidewall. If you pick tire size correctly the OD of a 15" tire and a 13" tire will be nearly the same. dave
  4. My Westfield has a Honda S2000 engine that revs to 9000 rpms and it sounds awesome. I love the feeling of the power building as the rpm's climb and everything gets frantic and fuzzy. It's awesome. It weighs 1220 lbs and makes 230+ hp at the wheels and very few cars will provide such fun and pace. And I'd give it up in a minute for an electric version if the weight can be kept reasonable. Being able to pull out of the driveway at 6:00 without waking the neighbors and launching at the local autocross and not pegging the dB meter and pissing off the people that live nearby would be ve
  5. These have been sitting around too long and I have no use for them so they need to go. The are Diamond Racing wheels lightweight steel wheels that I autocrossed on for 2 seasons with my Westfield. Never used on the street and no damage. They have a green stripe that is just pinstripe tape so if it's not to your liking it can be easily removed. The specs - 13" x 10" 4 x 4 1/4" bolt circle 4 1/2" backspace These wheels with some 10" slicks will make your Seven feel like it's getting swung around the corner on a rope. Great autocross wheel.
  6. Are you asking if I added vents? No....I didn't cut in any additional vents. I wondered about the airflow after it passed through the radiator so I did some string tests so i could see the way the air was moving. I suspect that much of the air that came in through the rad (as well as the openings inboard of the front wheels) went out the bottom of the engine compartment. This would of course raise the air pressure under the car and help create both lift and drag. When I closed off the underside of the car it changed the way the air flowed through the engine compartment. I now have a
  7. I did this on my Westfield a number of years ago....a splitter at the front, filled in around the sump in the engine bay, stock flat floor pan, and then a diffuser out the rear. Many will say that it's a waste of time given that a Seven is shaped like a brick and I completely disagree. To me it means that there's some big low hanging fruit and the flat bottom was easiest to pick. I get MUCH less lift at speed, it's quieter, and it doesn't feel like you've hit the brakes when you drop the throttle at speed. It works. Why wouldn't it? It's worth the time - go for it. dave
  8. I have a 2015 VW Golf wagon TDi. One of the nicest cars I've owned. More than quick enough, has the firm suspension of the handling package and I've averaged 43 mpg over the past 35,000 miles. Quiet and composed and the seats fit me very well (I'm 6'4"). It's awesome for road trips or running around town. The other 'daily' is a 2006 Honda Ridgeline truck that is used to two my Westie around. Many will poo poo it for not being a 'real truck' and I get it. But I don't need a real truck and this truck-lite is awesome for my needs. Default FWD (slips into 4 wheel of the fronts loose traction)
  9. Merry Christmas from Montana! dave
  10. That's interesting and I guess not all that surprising. I was looking at the Federals some time back after a friend said he liked them for autocross and noticed that in most sizes the treadware rating is 260....but for some odd reason 13" tires have a treadware rating of 460. They might not have much grip at 460 but I'll bet that they will last an annoyingly long time. dave
  11. Cool - I wouldn't worry about maintaining a small amount of toe-in....there's no tipping point that happens when you cross from toe-in to toe-out. In fact when the car moves up and down with weight shift the toe changes anyway. And unless you have solid suspension bushings they deflect when you hit the brakes to change the toe. So toe is kind of all over the place and there's nothing sacred about it. I have rivnuts that are mounted in the nose to support my front splitter and i just take these out and the string box bolts into those inserts. In the rear the bar affixes to the top of my re
  12. Right you are - I must have been thinking of the other guy with the understeer. Sorry about that. You are right on - weight shift is everything. Good on you for getting the feel for that! The attached photo show how much grip one can get with weight shift....the weight has shifted to the rear allowing it to hang on tight. Just look at the sidewall flex on that rear tire. It's working very hard. I've not found tramlining to be a real issue on the road when using lots of camber. Toe out can make it feel funny but camber has never been an issue for me. Unfortunately it seems very u
  13. Cool - these are my random thoughts based on what ran on a Birkin years ago and what I've learned with my current Westfield - - if you are running any kind of DOT radial tire (even something like a Hoosier A7) you could benefit from more camber all around. Those tires need a good bit, especially in front, for them to work as intended. If the car turns in well but then fades into understeer my first thought is front camber. I run a non-DOT bias ply tire and they need much different alignment....but if I were running 888's or A7's I'd set my car up with a good 2.5° in the front and maybe
  14. Support.....enable....not much difference in my book. Tell us about your alignment....what are you running for camber and toe front and rear? dave
  15. It really is fun autocrossing these things isn't it? My season has ended with fall/winter weather having moved in but even after 20 years I still get sad when it ends. I might suggest that one of the things hurting your consistency is the old tires. It's very hard to drive around having old tires. Do yourself a favor and get some new tires (yes.....7 years is old) and your driving will improve to match the new grip. Worth every cent. dave
  16. Under what conditions does it understeer? Corner entry? Mid corner? Corner exit? What tires are you using? dave
  17. I've found that the increments provided by the castle nut are too broad and that one position is too loose and the next is too tight. So I made thin shim washers to put behind the nut that that allow for a more fine tuned adjustment. If you're good with scissors you can make shims out of a coke can which is typically about .003" thick. This has worked very well for me in eliminating any play while not having any binding. dave
  18. I'll echo Scannon's input....the Quaiffe makes it sound like there's too much backlash in the gearing. I had one in an Elise and it sounded the same way. dave
  19. I have one installed in the Ford Sierra diff in my Westfield. I can hear it (not surprising given that it's 6" from my elbow) but it's nothing that really sticks out in my mind. What kind of noise does yours make and when does it do it? dave
  20. Any word on whether they are making or selling stuff? dave
  21. Look for a race shop in your area....they should have a set of scales. Before you spend the time and money to put the car on scales you should have the ride height and alignment done, have the tire pressures accurately set, and you should be mindful of the fuel load you want to consider. Once you get to the scales you should disconnect your sway bar(s) and be ready to put yourself in the driver's seat or have ballast ready to mimic your weight. Once you get the corner weighting done you'll want to adjust the sway bar end links so that the swaybar is unloaded and in a neutral positio
  22. It seems to be fairly simple - the Caterham has more torque than the tires can put to the ground given it's weight and weight distribution. The Atom has wider tires and much more weight on the rears so it can put power to the floor and it doesn't battle power-on oversteer and wheel spin every time the driver gives it the boot. I autocross against a well driven supercharged Atom at nearly every event I do (owned by a local friend of mine) and its ability to put power down far surpasses my Westfield S2000. It weighs just a bit more, makes much more power and can put it all down so the accel
  23. That is very interesting and unfortunately not surprising. Do you know where Birkin would like to land in the USA? dave
×
×
  • Create New...