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Vovchandr

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Everything posted by Vovchandr

  1. Small updates. In the search for unobtanium center caps for SLR wheels I had a friend 3D print a test Came out pretty good but it's not perfect yet. Also mocked up lower wishbone aero and it's hitting the shock... So that's another dilemma.
  2. Caterham 620S - The Fastest Car I've Driven - 4K
  3. THIS 500HP CATERHAM 620R IS SO FAST IT SHOULD BE ILLEGAL!!!
  4. Steve Becker 518-372-1561 They had to relay to central office where there is a guy who's familiar with Caterhams or 7's type cars, but either way it becomes an agreed value policy so I'm not even sure if their knowledge of the vehicle matters that much as long as it's within realm of realism of what the car should be valued at. Maybe thats why they need the expert?
  5. I use state farm agreed value. It's about $100 a month, but then goes down to $50 a month for winter months. Hagerty was about the same.
  6. From my very limited experience. Pull out together, use an adjustable leveler to help angle on the way up.
  7. I routed mine underneath, past the tranny, going into the main wiring hole in the center arm rest. It wasn't an easy task to get it through. Also I haven't welded the bung just yet but actually used the rear o2 bung for my wideband. It being past the cat skews the ratings but still gives a good ballpark. From what I've been told values would be off by .5 to 1 which is close enough for me to have an idea of whats happening. Currently planning to remove the cat anyway. Using the rear achieves a cleaner look
  8. Thank you for the info about the temp sensor. I'll look into that. I'm not planning on taking a belt back off but I understand what you're saying. That's what happened when I took it off the first time and haven't measured the "current operating position" before they snapped out of that position once the cam was removed. I'm thinking of using the picture above to try to replicate the last operating position that is different from the "0" position that I have put everything back together on, to hopefully make it run better. Just reluctant to mess with timing. The thought is, if it's non interference I have little to risk and I might as well put the adjustable cam gears to use and maybe even learn something.
  9. Compression used to be much better before the head gasket change, but I'm pretty sure it was at least done on warm engine last time. I'm not sure what you mean about cams "resting"? As far as Coolant Temps Sensors and temp charts I'm not sure how to proceed with that. I don't believe my ecu provides any temp charts.
  10. Not yet. It's been in my shopping cart. Mike make the jump now, even though it seems backordered on the site.
  11. So I've done a quick dry/cold compression test and got (front to back ) 150/150/180/180. Peculiar. Still have yet to do wet/warm test and leakdown test. Also question for the experts. Am I crazy to try to rotate the cams to match what they looked like before I changed the headgasket as seen in the picture above? Due to the backfiring I can assume the exhaust might be fine so I'll set that as a 0 and rotate the intake alone? Maybe rotate both towards each other slightly? I know nothing about messing with timing but still no luck finding anybody who's willing to take this on. I should be non interference so thinking of trying a wild card in meantime. Any advice? I'm essentially trying to dial in physical cam positions to whatever the ECU would be mapped to right (if the engine is out of sync with ecu right now?)
  12. If anybody is on the fence purchasing you can use ADV 15% discount to get a battery ADV Rider Discount! Save 15% now thru 6/15/22 on all Antigravity Batteries products using coupon ADVRIDER at checkout! https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/?utm_source=advrider&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=may_2022&utm_content=shop_btn
  13. tail of the dragon! halfway through our 2,000 mile road trip. part 2 of 3(?) Fairly certain he's a member but can't think of the name/find the intro thread or post. Tag if you remember.
  14. The Caterham 7 - A True Driving Experience
  15. Woah. Didn't know somebody was trying to challenge Morgan for the strangest front end
  16. Ep 122 - 14,000RPM HONDA SUPERBIKE POWERED WEAPON // Shayman test drive
  17. We Put 8 Tires on this Car to Make it FASTER
  18. Introducing the Caterham Seven 420 CUP
  19. Sorry to hear about the failure. Been there with witnessing wobbling fenders on the last few track days. The pictures I got showed that yours was riveted on at the front mount. Clever. I was going to glue it on front and back but will consider the same mount style now on front. Westermann advice was essentially "it should fit, if it doesn't it should fit with a little bit of mallet persuasion" so I did, then it did. Haven't mounted them yet, but might in the neat future. Yours look to sit higher than mine when mocked up but we shall see how it looks like in practice. I do not like the low mount (height of the front of fender from the ground) look and since this is purely aesthetic for me, I'll mess with it to get it right.
  20. Unfortunate misspelling of my name or foreshadowing?
  21. I should have a chance to dig into it this week. Still no luck with tuners at this moment. I'm leaning towards this being a primary timing/cam issue at this moment. I'll do compression test/leak down/ and exhaust gasses in coolant tests to establish a baseline. Cat is likely clogged or close to clogged so I'm planning to take it out. I have an OEM backup with a virgin Cat in place just in case I need to go back to that configuration. Primary question to all experts. This blacktop (Non SVT) Zetec is non interference. I should have no risk trying to use my adjustable cam to dial in the timing a little bit right? I know for a fact that the car pre head gasket change and post head gasket change has cams in different positions. They were not at 0 position before change and are 0'ed out now. I have a hunch maybe the non 0 configuration was on purpose and will be better. Car is misfiring/backfiring at cold and warm throughout the RPMs. I also don't think I go into the idle table due to me removing the IAC and having the ITB's stop on idle screw. I'll consider putting the IAC lines back on. I know it's unusual to have IAC on ITB's but thats how it came and I can't find any parameters in the tuning software to adjust the idle table or IAC at all. Here it is prior to taking it apart. Wasn't sure if it was intentional or accidental slip. (still honestly not sure) I'll go back through and use the suggestions one by one given here so far.
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