Series 2 Pre-Cross Flow Distributor and Ignition Timing

[SENC]

19 minutes ago, Henry VII said:

Yep - I know where it located (right behind my head!) and I hear it tick ticking away.   I was actually surprised, based on the build, that there is no regulator.  

For what it's worth, I'm not sure I see the value of electronic fuel pumps and electronic ignition on these cars - I think the mechanical variety do the job just as well on these simple machines, and they are simpler to maintain and adjust and have fewer gremlins (imo).  Having said that, my car is and will remain positive earth and with a generator/dynamo for the same reason of simplicity of function, so I may be a dinosaur.

 

Your dry sump means you don't have to worry about the dreaded rope seal, so you're good on that (mine is good so far, but ticking like all of them).

 

If you have the Standard/TR10 rear axle the download on that may be useful - seal replacement isn't bad, though hub removal can be a bugger and you really want the right tool (I have one if you need).

 

Keep us posted with pictures and any needs.

 

Henry

[Henry VII]

1 minute ago, SENC said:

For what it's worth, I'm not sure I see the value of electronic fuel pumps and electronic ignition on these cars - I think the mechanical variety do the job just as well on these simple machines, and they are simpler to maintain and adjust and have fewer gremlins (imo).  Having said that, my car is and will remain positive earth and with a generator/dynamo for the same reason of simplicity of function, so I may be a dinosaur.

 

Your dry sump means you don't have to worry about the dreaded rope seal, so you're good on that (mine is good so far, but ticking like all of them).

 

If you have the Standard/TR10 rear axle the download on that may be useful - seal replacement isn't bad, though hub removal can be a bugger and you really want the right tool (I have one if you need).

 

Keep us posted with pictures and any needs.

 

Henry

I’ve added some photos, if it helps anyone identify anything.  It does have the external oil pump, which makes me wonder if it is the 105 engine? 

[SENC]

Mine originally had an oil cooler based one early pictures, but long since gone - so that doesn't indicate anything in and of itself.  A 105e engine block would indicate the 1340cc variety, not the 1500.  You should be able to find the appropriate engine marking on the manifold side of the block, on the back half - likely 105e-6015 or 120e-6015, but there are other possibilities if replaced. 

 

 

On the distributor side, on the top of the piece of the block where the motor mount attaches, is the unique block number.  If you haven't already, reach out to John Watson (registrar of lotus 7s at the lotus7registry) with the details of your car and he'll be able to help with history.

 

Your intake manifolds dont look like the original Cosworth, so it is possible this engine was upgraded to Cosworth specs later - or that it was simply converted to dual webers and a Cosworth cover added - or that it is/was Cosworth and the manifold replaced for some reason.

 

 

Edited September 16, 2022 by SENC
correction

[IamScotticus]

Fuel pressure regulation...

The electric pumps are the usual suspects for over pressuring.  I am going back to the mechanical Ford as well.  It delivers 3psi consistently regardless of engine speed.  Either way, both kinds can fail and the mechanical can leak fuel into the oil.   

Yes, either way get a fuel regulator set to 3 psi and a way to test pressure with a gage.

 

hey, Formula Ford uses mechanicals on the Kents.

Edited September 16, 2022 by IamScotticus

[Henry VII]

1 hour ago, SENC said:

Mine originally had an oil cooler based one early pictures, but long since gone - so that doesn't indicate anything in and of itself.  A 105e engine block would indicate the 1340cc variety, not the 1500.  You should be able to find the appropriate engine marking on the manifold side of the block, on the back half - likely 105e-6015 or 120e-6015, but there are other possibilities if replaced. 

 

 

On the distributor side, on the top of the piece of the block where the motor mount attaches, is the unique block number.  If you haven't already, reach out to John Watson (registrar of lotus 7s at the lotus7registry) with the details of your car and he'll be able to help with history.

 

Your intake manifolds dont look like the original Cosworth, so it is possible this engine was upgraded to Cosworth specs later - or that it was simply converted to dual webers and a Cosworth cover added - or that it is/was Cosworth and the manifold replaced for some reason.

 

 

Mine shows a hand etched 120 before the E.  Matches the drawings of the Kent pre crossflow from what I can tell.  

[SENC]

Interesting - share a picture if you can, someone might recognize something that helps you on your search for information.  The specific engine number on top of the motor mount can so give a clue, as they were numbered with different conventions for various cars and when sold as replacement blocks.  There are a couple good web resources on them, I'll see if I can find them and share links.

 

I misread your prior post about the oil pump and whether that meant you had a 105e engine - I read it as oil cooler.

[SENC]

Kent engine articles

 

1- from Dave Bean English Ford catalog (which has lots of other good information and you might want as reference - I think you can still order one from DBE):

http://www.team.net/www/morgan/history/kenteng.html

 

2 - specfic to Cortinas but still quite useful:

https://www.lotus-cortina.com/library/block/blocks.htm

 

The lotuselan.net forum is also quite useful, as the twincam used essentially the same block.  You'll find plenty of discussion there about block numbers and specific engine numbers.

 

I meant to add earlier that I think this number on your head represents a casting date - I believe June 22 1967 - but stand ready to be corrected if someone knows differently.

 

Edited September 16, 2022 by SENC

[MV8]

I spy an adjustable temp cooling fan switch with remote sense capillary tube. Looks like a lot of effort was made to ensure things don't get rubbed the wrong way, but the clutch metal braided line appears to rub the oil tank. Three inches of fuel hose split lengthwise and placed around the line would fix that.

Edited September 17, 2022 by MV8

[TheDingo8MyBaby]

On 9/16/2022 at 5:39 AM, SENC said:

Kent engine articles

 

1- from Dave Bean English Ford catalog (which has lots of other good information and you might want as reference - I think you can still order one from DBE):

http://www.team.net/www/morgan/history/kenteng.html

 

2 - specfic to Cortinas but still quite useful:

https://www.lotus-cortina.com/library/block/blocks.htm

 

The lotuselan.net forum is also quite useful, as the twincam used essentially the same block.  You'll find plenty of discussion there about block numbers and specific engine numbers.

 

I meant to add earlier that I think this number on your head represents a casting date - I believe June 22 1967 - but stand ready to be corrected if someone knows differently.

 

 

Using a mirror - look under the thermostat housing for the casting numbers.

 

 

[Stevensonjr]

You pretty well described my engine, I’ve had no trouble with a Pertronix electronic dizzy. Easy to tune by ear even though I checked it later with a a light, it was where it needed to be. You also need an air balance snail for the Webers. There are several books that detail Weber tuning. What works for one engine may not work for another with close to the same specs. A cross between knowledge and magic is necessary for tuning.   A low pressure electric pump, 2 1/2 to 4 lbs needs no regulator.  Bill

[SENC]

On 9/27/2022 at 10:56 PM, TheDingo8MyBaby said:

 

Using a mirror - look under the thermostat housing for the casting numbers.

 

 

Dingo, I don't remember seeing this before, do you know the source?  What do HC and LC stand for, high and low compression?

[Henry VII]

8 hours ago, Stevensonjr said:

You pretty well described my engine, I’ve had no trouble with a Pertronix electronic dizzy. Easy to tune by ear even though I checked it later with a a light, it was where it needed to be. You also need an air balance snail for the Webers. There are several books that detail Weber tuning. What works for one engine may not work for another with close to the same specs. A cross between knowledge and magic is necessary for tuning.   A low pressure electric pump, 2 1/2 to 4 lbs needs no regulator.  Bill

So - making some progress.  First, I checked my fuel pump and it was pushing <1/2psi and even less when it warmed up.  It’s mounted about mid-tank level, so my guess is that when the tank was full, it got a very temporary pressure assist and it ran great for 30 miles or so.  Swapped out the pump, and lo and behold - it idles better and has more power (go figure).  And I did use my little balance snail, but the new pump has everything running better and my idle is now much higher so I’m going to go through it all again!  Thanks gents.  The story will continue….

[Henry VII]

9 hours ago, SENC said:

Dingo, I don't remember seeing this before, do you know the source?  What do HC and LC stand for, high and low compression?

It’s very difficult to make out, but maybe it means something to one of you.  Looks like 6050 116E? 

[SENC]

7 minutes ago, Henry VII said:

It’s very difficult to make out, but maybe it means something to one of you.  Looks like 6050 116E? 

116E 6050 J, which would make it a 1500GT head according to the picture Dingo posted.  I'm interested in where that came from any any other information, as well.

[TheDingo8MyBaby]

On 10/7/2022 at 6:25 AM, SENC said:

Dingo, I don't remember seeing this before, do you know the source?  What do HC and LC stand for, high and low compression?

 

Yes LC and HC are low and high compression. That image was posted on another forum. I do not know it's original origins. 

 

I recall there was another website that was a great reference for identifying precrossflow heads, but I can't seem to find the link at the moment. \

 

In any case, the 1500GT casting does tend to have the larger ports, but the other heads can all be ported out too.

 

 

 

 

[Christopher smith]

For anyone wanting to get maximum performance from a 1500 may I suggest a look at Vizards great book on head design. The 1500 is one of several examples with detailed drawings and even templates showing deshrouding the valves and porting for much improved flow. But that does bring down compression so a head shave is needed. But I understand you should not go too wild with that as cracks may become an issue.. Happy to share those several pages for anyone interested.