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Alternator Replacement, Birkinsport


Mark Bondurant

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I have a 2004 Roadsport SV, with a Birkinsport front kit on a Zetec. The alternator (probably voltage regulator) died and took a new battery with it. Does anyone have the part number for an alternator I would use to replace the Birkinsport? Also any ideas at what else I could check would be most appreciated.

Thanks Much

Mark Bondurant 

Franklin, OH

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Just ordered this yesterday 

 

105 amp Zetec from a 2000 contour or so. If your mounting bolts orient the same way it should work

 

Other Zetec mounting is turned 90 degrees

 

 

Carquest Premium

Alternator 8250A: Remanufactured, 105 Amps

Part No. 8250A

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I believe it was neither VCT or SVT, as the engine was "scrap" brand new when Ford changed to Duratec. There were a gazillion new Zetec's that became available as crate engines. I built this up using stock intake, and an Emerald ECU. Everything worked perfectly until Friday last. Then what I believe the scenario was, is that the Voltage regulator gave way, smoked the back of the alternator from overcurrent, and fried a fairly new AGM battery. But I'm not an automotive electrical engineer by any means, so that is pure speculation. 

Mark

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Hi Mark.  I dug through the archives of the old "Birkinowners" Yahoo group, and found a reference to Woody's kit using a small Geo alternator.  I believe it is the same one I used on my car (though long before Woody came along).  This is the one on my car:

 

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/p/duralast-alternator-14767/680694_0_0?searchText=14767

 

Yours appears to have a bracket bolted to it, but it sure looks like the 14767....

 

HTH!

Edited by BirkinBernie
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Ordered from Amazon. Local auto suppliers couldn't find it, including NAPA, which surprised me.  Thanks, Bernie, sure looks like the right one. Thought it'd be more than 55 amp, but I'll give it a go. Here by 9/13. Also, I'm going to up the gauge of the battery wire, as that seemed to take some heat. Should be up and running again in a couple weeks. 

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Please let us know how it works out!  I have never had an issue with that alternator in my Birkin.  The only things it has to run are the engine management, fuel pump, lights and, on occasion, the cooling fan.  With a small AGM battery it has been rock solid reliable for 22 years and 26k miles.....

 

Happy Motoring!

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Mine has for almost 20 years, til last Friday. There was evidence of heat at the battery/starter wire attachment, so I'll up that by a couple gauges to cut the amp drag. Good time to do all my other maintenance as well. I'll wait for snow to finally pull the engine and fix the speedo cable.... Thanks again.

Mark

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A little late to the party here: my car has a kubota tractor/forklift alternator... If yours has a similar provenance that would explain difficulty searchign for one. Another consieration is to find an alternator repair shop. They may be able to rebuild your existing one. 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thank you all in the Forum, particularly BirkinBernie for locating the part I needed! I got the 334-1879 (GM# 19134872), and did the pulley swap. A couple things came to light compared to the old one which is just slightly different. First, the shaft is just a little bit shorter. The spacer that was on the original worked, but the pulley nut did not. Simple fix, I used the pulley nut that came with the GM replacement, that didn't have the offset of the original. Second, there is something just slightly different with the casting, so it hit against the top of the mounting bolt on the bracket that came with Woody's kit. This wouldn't have been a problem, except that the support arm on the front of the engine is non-adjustable. Again, simple fix, 5 minutes with a Dremel to the top of the mounting bolt and the alternator rocked right into place.

I think the culprit ultimately was the 10Ga alternator wire,  that led to increased amperage, that melted the connections in the alternator. As is typical of my response to most problems of this nature, I over-engineered the solution. I used a 6Ga wire from alternator to starter, and switched up battery cables to 2Ga, which is one big fat wire. Marine grade of course.....lol. It was finally a good excuse to install a battery cut off switch so I got that done, and tidied up a few other wires while I was at it. 

Fired right up, and good to go! Perfect timing for autumn leaf tours. 

Thanks again all for the help and encouragement. 

Mark

ps now for my next problem with my right tail light, where turn signal and brake light both go on when I hit the brake, and turn signal is rapid.....I'll do another post on that.

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Okay, more of an update!

Finally was able to take the car out for a fabulous early autumn blat yesterday and everything worked smoothly BUT...the alternator light flickers at slightly elevated RPM's. Battery is staying charged, and I have not yet checked voltage at idle or under load but am throwing it out there for any ideas. Did I get a bad alternator? Nothing else has changed. Is 55 amps enough? At least it runs, starts, and will get me through leaf season, but I'll want it fixed properly before next season. 

Thanks again all!

Mark

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