Radiator for S2?

[IamScotticus]

Probably just better to get a bake and bath at a engine builder?

[MV8]

Not knowing the extent of the plugging, yes. If you don't get it all out, it can circulate to block the small holes in the new head gasket around a cylinder and cause overheat and warpage.

JB is right about muriatic and he did say to dilute it but try something less reactive first. The least aggressive, safest method that will work is usually best. I didn't suggest muriatic because it will dissolve the dex cool gel, the hoses, the block, and you. The key to using muratic is to dilute enough that a cloud does not form when a part is introduced and minimal bubbling. The cloud itself is corrosive and will dissolve steel. Muriatic is diluted (but still very strong) sulphuric hydrochloric acid and useful for cleaning driveways and sea shells. What will you do with the run off from flushing? It will crater the driveway if not thoroughly rinsed. Do I need to mention eye, lung, and skin protection?

Edited September 24, 2023 by MV8

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

What that means to me is never to let my engines near any coolant but water and ethylene glycol.  With the best heat transfer coming from water, and a Florida environment in which freezing temperatures are rare and even rarer below 30 degrees Fahrenheit, mostly water seems a better bet than 50/50.

[jbcollier]

Good "antifreeze" also:

 

- contains rust inhibitors that can keep corrosion at bay for many, many years,

 

- inhibits galvanic corrosion which can be a major problem with dissimilar metals linked by water and then heated,

 

- raises the boiling point.

 

If it never gets cold then it probably gets hot.  Either way, using good quality "antifreeze" is important.  Myself, I would go 50/50.  60 water and 40 antifreeze would still be ok.

 

If you have track days where water is required, make sure you drain it afterwards.  Do NOT leave the water in place.  I've worked on lots of old jags and they really suffered from head corrosion due to lack of regular coolant changes and the poor quality of coolants available in the day.

[IamScotticus]

always use a at least a 50/50 mixture of coolant and very clean (distilled) water.  Many benefits including rust, corrosion and cavitation scarring inhibitors.  The thermostat's opening rate is designed for it and the boiling point is raised so steam wont form during the normal operating range.

Had (that guy) just kept his system filled with Dex-cool, he would have been fine long term.

[Stevensonjr]

I called Caterham, told them I needed a series 2 radiator, they sent one (aluminum) I slightly modified the lower tube to clear the forward frame tube, moved it forward leaned it back against new frame mounts and it clears the nose by at least 1/2” all around. Then put a 10” pancake electric fan on it, pulling from the inside. Runs at 80C, 85C on a 100F day

 

 

[IamScotticus]

Good fit.

is there an item number?

Manufacturer?

[jbcollier]

What was the Caterham part number/application?  Obviously you welded on new brackets for mounting it.  Did you have to cut off the original fan brackets?

 

Thanks

[MV8]

That looks like the "Sigma and Duratec" listing for $408 inc. vat. The "Rover K" and "crossflow" versions should be interchangeable on the same mounts but have sensor ports and fan brackets.

[Stevensonjr]

Just saw the radiator questions, will look in my files to find the numbers. I made the mounts and had them welded on prior to powder coating. You can see them pretty well in the photos, all 4 are simple L shaped brackets to accommodate the rubber mounts furnished with the radiator. The dimensions of the 4 mounts is determined by the interior shape of your nose skin. I made mounts and duct taped them to the frame with the radiator attached. Then you try fit the nose and change mount lengths as necessary, then weld them up. I have about 1/2” clearance on all four corners of the radiator. I cut the original fan mounts off. I’ll look up the radiator numbers tonight.

[IamScotticus]

I see a label on the side (hint) 

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

Unfortunately, my kinky mistress sits in the bay immediately beside my wife's sugar daddy, a 1924 Ford Model T., which is also beside my pop-top Miata. Model Ts have a somewhat Victorian air to them.

 

That's gorgeous work, Stevensonjr.

 

I think my problem is solved - my solder job has held, and I'm back on the road.

 

Thanks for your help and  a very interesting conversation.

[MV8]

Hooray! Solder is all that really holds copper-brass together anyway. Totally serviceable if you can find parts. Just the fins are copper.

[IamScotticus]

Im still wanting the info, as I am very tempted to go aluminum from my brass.

[MoBoost]

37 minutes ago, IamScotticus said:

Im still wanting the info, as I am very tempted to go aluminum from my brass.

Me too. 

[MV8]

Based on the label, it looks like PN 73316 which is the "Ford Crossflow" listing and identical with the exception of no fan mount welded on:

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/radiators/2653-radiator-aluminium-for-ford-crossflow-engine.html

 

If your going to weld on mounts and use universal hoses, a racing civic rad popular with locosts would probably fit and cost about $120 for a three row unit. I have one sitting here for something else (not a civic) but not installed yet if you'd like pics and dimensions.

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

As an aside, my radiator happens to have a  brass upper chamber. The leak was under a brass tag left there by a radiator shop to cover the original leak. It took me a few tries to seal it up completely, because the previous repair was a rather large area of solder, and the leak kept sneaking out from under it.