WCM Ultralite Rear Suspension Arms Length Question

[charles5448]

Recently picked up a WCM Ultralite that someone tried to adapt a Ford 8.8 diff & knuckles to. I am currently in the process of swapping in a Subaru WRX diff & knuckles. I have the WCM Manual that lists out the "correct"(?) length rear suspension arms but it seems like all of mine are just slightly different than what is listed. I was wondering if someone would please measure out their WCM rear suspension arms if you're running the WRX diff & knuckles. 

 

Currently I have:

 

Upper Rear Suspension Link 12"

Diagonal Rear Suspension Link 11"

Lower Rear Suspension Link 12"

Upper Trailing Arm Rear Suspension Link 7.5"

Lower Trailer Arm Rear Suspension Link 8"

 

It's strange that everything I have is just slightly off from what the manual says. I find it hard to believe that the person who tried to adapt the Ford 8.8 changed every single bar. Again, just asking for bar lengths from someone that is running a WRX diff & knuckles in a WCM Ultralite. Thanks in advance!! 

[Croc]

@RGTorque  Hi Roman - Are you in a position to provide input here please?

[charles5448]

On 11/19/2023 at 4:55 PM, Croc said:

@RGTorque  Hi Roman - Are you in a position to provide input here please?

Any help would be much appreciated. I have the car all torn apart now, and I'm trying to determine if I can make what I have work. 

[S1Steve]

On 11/19/2023 at 4:55 PM, Croc said:

@RGTorque  Hi Roman - Are you in a position to provide input here please?

Morning Croc, Romans a Dad now so he’s a busy guy. I’ll send him a text and hopefully get a answer..

[MV8]

There is a discussion topic here about the change back to subbie with the previous owner in Hunstville.

I don't know about the original links, but the optional upgrade links are adjustable length; 5/8" aluminum hex tubes with spherical ends.

I don't remember what was driving the push to revert.

 

With all the original parts (including the correct length axles) installed, I would jig the hubs to ride height at the original track width (tire center to tire center) and camber with zero toe-in (because it is easier and not critical right now), then adjust each link eye-to-eye to fit without moving the hubs at all. If a tube is too long or short, it can be replaced or trimmed and the threads chased.