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WCM Ultralight rebuild


Rashid_seyadi

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Hi, today i got delivery to the only Ultralight in Bahrain which was stored for more than 10 years. Thankfully the car runs very well didnt get to drive it just got the engine running and it sounds well thankfully. Ill be starting from the front of rhe car ill be removing the engine changing most of the gaskets and seals with the trans gaskets. All the fluids of the car, tidying things up behind the dash and the engine loom. Inspecting the fuel tank and lines. Moving on to the brake system which seems to be very bad in terms of condition with the shocks which are leaking in all four tyres. The rear right hub seems to have a damaged bearing. Or maybe the calliper is stuck.

 

Would like to get your thoughts on how would you see the start should be and what should be looking for first. Any ideas recommendations that would be highly appreciated. Hope you enjoy the rebuild.

 

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Jumping ahead on you by about 10 steps but I just got these shocks and springs delivered in the mail.  After a lot of pondering I decided on this set. Hopefully it saves you sometime shopping around 

 

Advanced racing suspension in Indianapolis.  Person's name is Corey.  Springs I went with are 500 front 300 rears.  Shocks are not adjustable but tuned by the manufacturer to the setup.  They know the car 

 

 

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7 minutes ago, wdb said:

Gadzooks! I have never seen holes that big in brake rotors.

Those are the wilwood 12 inch rotors that come stock with the WCM.  All cars I have seen have those in front.

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Thanks @nc7s4 for the shocks ill send them an email when i get to that step.

 

busy day today got the fluids out the radiator fluid was horrible. removed the Engine and gearbox out but ill need your help here am i missing something here the gearbox and engine are stuck together removed all the bolts. Total 9 bolts. I can get them apart by about an inch or so but not in full is there something wrong 🤔

 

Got the engine and gearbox on the ground safely and tried everything to get them apart but i couldnt 🥲

 

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No first-hand experience on this drive train, but most vehicles have a steel plate between the transmission bell and the engine block. The plate installs between the flywheel and block. You will also need to support the trans (lifting up) so all the weight is not on the input shaft, then wobble the tail housing around in a circular motion as you pull.

 

I like the drawer slide and threaded rod pedal adjustment. :classic_smile:

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1 hour ago, MV8 said:

I like the drawer slide and threaded rod pedal adjustment. :classic_smile:

That adjuster was pretty sketchy on my car.  Really flexed when on the brake, to the point where it was concerning me that the pedal box might break off entirely.  Here's how I hard mounted it

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