Rashid_seyadi Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 Hi, today i got delivery to the only Ultralight in Bahrain which was stored for more than 10 years. Thankfully the car runs very well didnt get to drive it just got the engine running and it sounds well thankfully. Ill be starting from the front of rhe car ill be removing the engine changing most of the gaskets and seals with the trans gaskets. All the fluids of the car, tidying things up behind the dash and the engine loom. Inspecting the fuel tank and lines. Moving on to the brake system which seems to be very bad in terms of condition with the shocks which are leaking in all four tyres. The rear right hub seems to have a damaged bearing. Or maybe the calliper is stuck. Would like to get your thoughts on how would you see the start should be and what should be looking for first. Any ideas recommendations that would be highly appreciated. Hope you enjoy the rebuild. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 Jumping ahead on you by about 10 steps but I just got these shocks and springs delivered in the mail. After a lot of pondering I decided on this set. Hopefully it saves you sometime shopping around Advanced racing suspension in Indianapolis. Person's name is Corey. Springs I went with are 500 front 300 rears. Shocks are not adjustable but tuned by the manufacturer to the setup. They know the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 Nice project! Thanks for the pics. Probably just need seal kits for the all the hydraulics as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdb Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 Gadzooks! I have never seen holes that big in brake rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 7 minutes ago, wdb said: Gadzooks! I have never seen holes that big in brake rotors. Those are the wilwood 12 inch rotors that come stock with the WCM. All cars I have seen have those in front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted October 30 Author Share Posted October 30 Thanks @nc7s4 for the shocks ill send them an email when i get to that step. busy day today got the fluids out the radiator fluid was horrible. removed the Engine and gearbox out but ill need your help here am i missing something here the gearbox and engine are stuck together removed all the bolts. Total 9 bolts. I can get them apart by about an inch or so but not in full is there something wrong 🤔 Got the engine and gearbox on the ground safely and tried everything to get them apart but i couldnt 🥲 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted October 30 Share Posted October 30 (edited) No first-hand experience on this drive train, but most vehicles have a steel plate between the transmission bell and the engine block. The plate installs between the flywheel and block. You will also need to support the trans (lifting up) so all the weight is not on the input shaft, then wobble the tail housing around in a circular motion as you pull. I like the drawer slide and threaded rod pedal adjustment. Edited October 30 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted October 30 Share Posted October 30 1 hour ago, MV8 said: I like the drawer slide and threaded rod pedal adjustment. That adjuster was pretty sketchy on my car. Really flexed when on the brake, to the point where it was concerning me that the pedal box might break off entirely. Here's how I hard mounted it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted October 31 Author Share Posted October 31 Engine and trans are finally apart it was the fork that i completely forgot about. Diff is also out unfortunately i think the lsd has an issue ill get it checked another day. @nc7s4 any idea where can i get new rubber mounts (engine, gearbox and diff) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted October 31 Share Posted October 31 That is an r160 differential from a WRX, I think. Good news is that it will be easy to replace the r160 with another r160 if you choose to do that. Those parts are easy to find since they came with several different Subarus. Bad news is you thought you got an STI rear end. I was also suspicious looking at your rotors in the back. Those look like WRX rotors which is a standard setup. Compare pictures of the rear cover for a r160 and an r180 to what you have. The STI came with an r180. Regarding the engine mounts, here is a picture of how I fixed mine. I got these rubber bushings from Amazon which have been holding up fine 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted November 1 Share Posted November 1 13 hours ago, nc7s4 said: Quick update regarding my new springs and shocks. They do not work!! 10-In heavy springs are too tall. Even at the top of the shock perch the ride height is too high. Need to figure out how to fit shorter springs. I think that only the rear of the car has clearance issues, front will fit industry standard 2.25 ID springs. The rear of the car will probably still get 1.875 ID springs, but the problem with that is that they are limited in what you can get. It looks like the heaviest 8-in option is 250 lb. That may be what I end up with in the back. If the front can fit 2.25 in springs then there is any rate imaginable in that size 8 in long. I've moved the resulting thread drift back to core thread starting here but have left the initial post about the spring error above as a quote to ensure it is not lost here. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted November 11 Author Share Posted November 11 Hi, im gathering all the parts needed for the engine and diff it got me realise that the oil pan is way too close to the ground. Did some search online and couldnt find any sort of a solution of a shorter sump for the f22 engines. Does someone know or would recommend a specific type of oil sump could be a baffled sump maybe instead of the stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 Hello again, The F22C and F20C should be the same height. My car has a canton oil pan and the ride height is adjusted up enough to give about 4" of clearance with the 17" wheels/tires. With the 15" wheels/tires, the ride drops and oil pan clearance drops but that is OK for the race track. The motor mounts that I sent you will get the engine pushed right up tight to the hood which will also help. I switched my oil pan to the Canton oil pan. It is steel, so if it takes a hit it will dent instead of shatter like the aluminum one. Its also fully baffled. The stock oil pan and the canton are the same height so this wont help clearance. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 Correction, the oil plan clearance is 3" with the street wheel/tire setup. The perches could always get cranked up though depending on what type of roads you are driving on. 3" will be an issue if you are trying to drive over any protruding manhole covers etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted November 11 Author Share Posted November 11 25 minutes ago, nc7s4 said: Correction, the oil plan clearance is 3" with the street wheel/tire setup. The perches could always get cranked up though depending on what type of roads you are driving on. 3" will be an issue if you are trying to drive over any protruding manhole covers etc. The good part is that im planning to keep it for the track only as the westfield is already built for the roads but getting it onto the trailer to the track will be a pain as it did give us a hard time during delivery. I may install the same shocks as the westfield (protech) they work fairly good for their price tag and i never had clearance issues with them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 (edited) Those look really nice. The rear shocks are a little bit longer than the front ones on the wcm. Front and rear call for 8-in springs. Rear springs on my car need to be smaller diameter than the front. Ymmv. It looks like you have a few parts on hand to test fit which will be very helpful. I will let you know how my spring rates work out. I am still waiting for the 525/275 springs to arrive. Expecting it to be a harsh ride for the road but good for the track. Edited November 11 by nc7s4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted November 11 Author Share Posted November 11 1 hour ago, nc7s4 said: Those look really nice. The rear shocks are a little bit longer than the front ones on the wcm. Front and rear call for 8-in springs. Rear springs on my car need to be smaller diameter than the front. Ymmv. It looks like you have a few parts on hand to test fit which will be very helpful. I will let you know how my spring rates work out. I am still waiting for the 525/275 springs to arrive. Expecting it to be a harsh ride for the road but good for the track. Yup ill test fit them when i get to that stage i even have a set of nitron shocks which i also test fit on the westfield but it was really low. Ended up switching back to the protech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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