IamScotticus Posted March 1 Posted March 1 Anyone? PM me for offers or put suggestions here what to get and from who. Standard crank for a road car is OK. I am wanting steel just to not have to be too concerned wirh the rev limits going forward. Or in reverse.
EdWills Posted March 2 Posted March 2 (edited) Hi Scott. According to a news release quite some time ago by Dave Bean (when he was still with us), he noted that the metal composition of the replacement crankshafts (SCAT) for the Crossflow - after Ford had discontinued casting them - was akin to steel. He detailed the metal composition, and I've searched for the bulletin, but so far cannot locate it. The Ivey crankshaft possibly comes from a different production facility, but should also be of a better quality than the original Ford unit and Ivey balances the units and sells direct or through Pegasus I believe. Some (most?) of the replacement Crossflow cranks are manufactured in China, but their metal processing is equal to, or in some cases now, better than original. You can get forged steel cranks from the U.K., but naturally they are expensive. The problem with the cranks in Formula Fords for example, is that the flywheel is often exposed at the bottom of the bell housing, and off-road excursions could result in the flywheel hitting the curbing (a very momentary sudden stop?) with the engine still trying to turn, putting extreme stress on the crankshaft. They didn't last very long this way. Otherwise the original cranks and the latest ones are good for their application. Note: This last piece of information is according to various engine tuners detailing the cranks in books and articles that I have. Many early U.K. engine tuners suggested that steel main caps should be fitted to the blocks for racing purposes, but the new block that you have has the beefed up caps and stronger bolts, so these should be more than sufficient. One engine tuner advised that you could safely rev an engine with a steel crank fitted, quite a bit higher than the recommended maximum for the original Ford crank, but this should need to take into consideration the balance of both the crank, the flywheel, and the clutch cover. The older rounded mains caps of the 2737E were not as strong as the replacement square caps. Edited March 2 by EdWills spelling 1
IamScotticus Posted March 2 Author Posted March 2 Im considering a 1700 build for the AX, or the new cast 711M. (You always know if someone has an AX block; they will tell you). The crank doesn't need to be FF legal, and Im not wanting a FF fly-weight flywheel. Just bad shift bullet proof drivable road stuff.
Chris D Posted March 2 Posted March 2 I have several steel and stock 1600 cranks and blocks. complete MAE ENGINES As well as the AX . 701 Lotus blocks and 711AA 1300 blocks about 10 complete engines with stock and Race heads. EVERYTHING HAS TO GO! Chris D 585 330 5456
toldfield Posted Tuesday at 02:54 AM Posted Tuesday at 02:54 AM I bought my crank from Ivey Racing Engines in Oregon. They are great to work with and it came peened, balanced, and polished. I used a new cast block, which Ivey will also sell you. They are great people to deal with and really know what they are doing. I'm running a twincam so had the block bored and used short pistons. Tom 2
bball7754 Posted Tuesday at 03:45 AM Posted Tuesday at 03:45 AM Burton Power lists two. https://www.burtonpower.com/steel-crank-77-65mm-x-f-rwd-std-journal-en40b-6-bolt-fp324w-77-65.html https://www.burtonpower.com/steel-crank-77-65mm-x-flow-rwd-narrow-jour-en40b-12-bolt-arrowc139.html 1
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