7Westfield Posted July 13 Posted July 13 The "choke" cable on my Westy takes way more force to pull than I like, even with a new cable. The issue seems to be the enrichment units themselves. I don't know how stiff the spring action on them should be, but these are stouter than I'd like, but no sign of binding, etc. Can I just remove that external coil spring? I've not tried yet because it looks like you have to cut them to remove, and not sold as replacement parts. You have to buy the whole block for stupid money. I took one off, and the pistons it raises seem to have a spring load of their own, so it seems removing the external one would be OK Very rare that I use it, but, if it's there I'd like it to work
IamScotticus Posted July 14 Posted July 14 (edited) The cable housing is clamped on the clamp on the first carb and the wire passed through the lock nut on the enrichment lever to the lock nut on the next enrichment lever. Tighten the cable clamp. With the end nut tightened on the cable first, pull the cable to the fully open position. Move the lever of the first carb to fully open position and tighten. Release cable and check for lever closure. Provide enough slack in cable for engine movement. I do not have any additional springs connected to the choke enrichment system on my setup. Alternatively, a piece of rigid tubing may be placed over the connecting cable between levers to help the 2nd lever close if it binds. Also, notice the hole in the back plate. This is an improvement earlier carbs didn't have. If you don't have a hole, drill one. Edited July 15 by IamScotticus
7Westfield Posted July 14 Author Posted July 14 Scott I've got it all hooked up correctly I'm just looking to reduce the effort to pull the knob, wondering if there is any reason not to remove that coil spring around the actuating lever Even with the start gizmo off the carb, it has a lot more spring pressure than I expected doesn't seem to be gummed up or anything, just a lot more spring than needed
IamScotticus Posted July 14 Posted July 14 (edited) The CSU should operate without the springs. A return spring should be there to prevent a running problem. If you have a spring tension measuring device like a trigger pull gage, we could compare mine to yours. Edited July 14 by IamScotticus
IamScotticus Posted July 15 Posted July 15 (edited) I did the trigger gage test and found my levers reqire 2.5 lbs of tension to move the lever to the stop position. So combined is 5 lbs, which is typical hand gun trigger. If your levers are harder than this, there is a problem to resolve. Remove the CSU and check the gears for functioning and the pistons for movement Edited July 15 by IamScotticus
IamScotticus Posted July 15 Posted July 15 I would keep the springs. These carbs move a lot from vibration. You need some tension preventing the CSU from opening.
7Westfield Posted July 15 Author Posted July 15 I've ordered a trigger scale, we'll see what that shows As little as it's needed, I might just do the delete option, but then I'd have to figure out what to do with the hole in the dash--maybe just an unused mystery switch
IamScotticus Posted July 15 Posted July 15 12 minutes ago, 7Westfield said: I'd have to figure out what to do with the hole in the dash-- A fake start button that sets off Fing loud alarm
NSXguy Posted July 16 Posted July 16 Make sure your choke "pull" mechanism (pre carbs, in the cabin) isnt sticking. i can't see the choke mechanism in the units requiring a significant effort to activate unless maybe they have gotten gummed up from sitting; in which case, they can be removed and thoroughly cleaned. Once way to trouble shoot is to isolate variables; I would remove the cable entirely and actuate the choke mechanism on each individual carburetor. If one or both are tight, then sort the offending choke. if they both move freely, then the culprit is elsewhere; either in the routing or mounting of the cable. The chokes should work properly with the return spring mechanim installed so I would not consider removal a satisfactory permanent solution. -Dez. 3
7Westfield Posted July 20 Author Posted July 20 OK just got a scale to check the pull around 5 pounds on each lever!!!! a couple of pounds on each piston no binding evident just talked to Pierce, best guess is massively wrong springs in the pistons, so a new set is on the way not the first FUBAR I've found in this set..... 1
IamScotticus Posted July 21 Posted July 21 (edited) 10 hours ago, 7Westfield said: 5 pounds on each lever This seems a tad excessive. Perhaps a PO was trying to solve a problem? Edited July 21 by IamScotticus
7Westfield Posted July 21 Author Posted July 21 well, the springs don't look like factory items the ends aren't finished as they should be, they look like they were cut down from longer ones I wonder if somebody put in stiffer ones to disable the system Also, they told me the Italian carbs use a lighter spring than later ones
SENC Posted July 22 Posted July 22 On 7/21/2026 at 8:19 AM, 7Westfield said: I wonder if somebody put in stiffer ones to disable the system That would be my bet.
IamScotticus Posted July 23 Posted July 23 (edited) On 7/21/2026 at 7:19 AM, 7Westfield said: stiffer ones to disable the system Or to prevent jiggle and sporadic opening? These DCOEs shake a lot. If all else is working, stiffer springs seems like an acceptable compromise so as not to go the deletion route. Edited July 23 by IamScotticus
7Westfield Posted July 24 Author Posted July 24 Oh yeah massive diff between springs, new ones are MUCH lighter it's actually usable now 2
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