NSXguy

It’s a dying art with fewer proficient practitioners. Might check with vintage race shops or older Porsche shops. if inclined to tune in your own, you can start by sharing your current baseline jet settings. From there you can likely start by a 1/4 turn out on the mixture screws (may have to go up in idle jet is it doesn’t cure) and then proceed to optimize the main circuit based on driving feedback.

An aftermarket/Standalone ecu cares little of which flavor (OEM vs aftermarket) VR sensor is feeding it or if the signal is picked up from the flywheel or crank as long as the sensor is in working order with correct gap and properly calibrated in the software. Therefore, all else being the same, if it was running before with Megasquirt, it should work with Haltech proper calibration. Also- An engine can be calibrated to run with a variety of crank trigger configurations(36-1, 60-2 etc). More teeth= better resolution, so if you're being told that you need to go back to the oem 36-1, that would be correct only if you were planning to run the standard ecu. The whole reason for running an aftermarket management is to untether yourself from the OEM configuration and unlock the full potential of the engine by using whatever hardware you desire. If you do find your current CPS to be faulty after thorough troubleshooting(ohm, check gap, scope trace etc), you can certainly use a standard Ford VR sensor that was offered on the late 90s contour, might need to make some small changes in the software to arming thresholds but that should be it. IIRC gap is ~ .75mm. Its the same CPS i'm using on my Emtron managed turbo car. -Dez

Locked in ticket as well 👍

SOLD.

Read that as well, Charlie. Welcomed news! I suspect due to Friday forecast they don’t anticipate much track activity which allows for early drop off for our weekend sessions.

I have these tires for sale. About 1.5k miles on them + 4 track sessions. Lots of usable miles left. Only replaced as i scored a set of Avons. I will upload photos tomorrow. 1- Willing to ship at buyer's expense 2-If attending NJMP this weekend, i can deliver there.

Sure, I would be down for this.

i'll share photos of mine tomorrow. It's been so long i don't even remember what mine looks like with the spare tire holder. Have never needed it.

you'll do just fine with R888 on the street, even with spirited driving.

We'll be there... NSXguy + Mrs_NSXguy + kiddo

I believe I have a set in my stash. Will PM with confirmation

Nice meeting you as well! Pleasant surprise to have 3 se7ens in attendance.

Make sure your choke "pull" mechanism (pre carbs, in the cabin) isnt sticking. i can't see the choke mechanism in the units requiring a significant effort to activate unless maybe they have gotten gummed up from sitting; in which case, they can be removed and thoroughly cleaned. Once way to trouble shoot is to isolate variables; I would remove the cable entirely and actuate the choke mechanism on each individual carburetor. If one or both are tight, then sort the offending choke. if they both move freely, then the culprit is elsewhere; either in the routing or mounting of the cable. The chokes should work properly with the return spring mechanim installed so I would not consider removal a satisfactory permanent solution. -Dez.

If you can share photos of the car/engine and we can probably be more helpful. If S.A built, it may have an AX block installed which is the best(read -strongest) for tuning/upgrade purposes. It sounds like it is running wasted spark ignition which is nice as you can achieve a tailored ignition curve and thus better performance than the standard distributor based setup. Twin 40s, 32mm venturis and 4 to 1 collectors hitns at an engine that is built to rev. You'll likely(possibly) find that it has an upgraded camshaft and double valve springs as well. -Dez