lowflyer Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 A V6 is too much engine for a 7????!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't tell that to anyone with a Stalker. BTW, I just read a comment attributed to the late Mark Donahue about the Porsche 917/30. He is quoted as saying " when I can spin the rear tires in top gear at the end of the longest straightaway, I will have enough power". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slngsht Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 A V6 is too much engine for a 7????!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't tell that to anyone with a Stalker. BTW, I just read a comment attributed to the late Mark Donahue about the Porsche 917/30. He is quoted as saying " when I can spin the rear tires in top gear at the end of the longest straightaway, I will have enough power". :rofl: you know I was joking, right? [going back to work on my V8 ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHKflyer52 Posted June 21, 2008 Author Share Posted June 21, 2008 Well I recived the new solution to my overheating problem and will start with a photo of the new parts that will fix the problem.:7frog: Here is a link to the photos if you are interested. http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OverheatingProblem I will update the link with new photos as I due the rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locostv8 Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 For those reading a blown head gasket dosn't always dilute oil or show bubbles. The 327 in my Corvair couldn't be driven more than a couple of blocks without badly overheating no mud in sump or bubbles so I got a tester to test for exhaust in radiator, BAD head gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnK Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 The people who make radiators for special applications (Griffin (1-800-722-3723) among others) have values / numbers as to how big a radiator an engine needs, based on power output, coolant volume, .... Possibly you're running at the edge of you're system's capacity and something minor has pushed things over the edge. I've found Griffin's tech help line to be staffed by friendly folk. In terms of procedures and approaches, before I look for anything wrong, I backpedal and double check that the basics are correct. My reference / checklist has been to read and understand the description in C. Smiths's Prepare to Win (see pg 123). I does sound as if something has come awry - unless maybe you've suddenly learned how to drive much more aggressively :-) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjslutz Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Prior to doing anything else I would take it to a radiator or a shop and have them test for exhaust gas in the radiator, it is very low cost. At one point years ago I had one and when you would suck some air up through it I think it would turn yellow if there was exhaust gas in the radiator. If so head gasket time. As others said I think it is where to look. A Std. compression test should show, also as mentioned above reading the spark plugs can show. If it was me, I would gather all the info prior to pulling the head. It should point to what cyl. area to look at. The "Bear" knew about real power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHKflyer52 Posted June 22, 2008 Author Share Posted June 22, 2008 Hi to all, Thanks for all your suggestions. I can say that I have checked and double checked every aspect (radiator, cylinder compression etc.) of what could be wrong before buying a new cyclinder head due to the cost and down time of my car. Visual inspection of the center exhaust ports shows that the water jacket has cracked due to the porting job I did when I built the engine up 3 years ago. Sure had hoped that it had been a bag head gasket but I just don't have that kind of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eoindubh Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 I have been having a similar problem with an MGB/GT. The engine is a fresh rebuild from a good shop. The radiator was rebuilt by the best shop in the area. The engine has a bit of cam, +20 pistons, a full balance job and brand new carbs. All hoses were replaced. I can drive it to work in the morning (5:30AM) without going over 180 F but when I drive home at about 6PM it is up to temp before I get to the freeway and over 200 F before I get home (7 miles total). In talking to the tech support people at Moss Moters, they suggested looking at the distributer. As the advance plate and springs wear the timing can advance radically over the original curve. They suggested checking the timing at idle with an advance timing light (one that has a dial that will allow you to dial back to zero and see haw many degrees advanced you are) at idle, 1000RPM, 2000RPM and 3000RPM. Also if using a vacume advance it can be tested by unpluging the hose from the carb and plugging the carb port. Next connect a hand vacume pump to the vacume advance host and gradually apply vacume to the specified spec for the distributor. Again use the advance timing lighi to see how many degrees of advance you are getting. Also a hand held infrared thermometer is really handy (about $50 on so online) to chech temperatures. You can measure abive and below the theroostst to verify that it is opening at the correct temp. It can also check brake temp after a run and make sure that the turkey is at the correct temp! I have one on order myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHKflyer52 Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 Well I have updated the link with some new photos if your interested. http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OverheatingProblem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHKflyer52 Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 Well I removed the cylinder head tonight and found some other problems besides the cracks in the head their are cracks in the # 2 and # 3 cylinder walls about a third of the way down the stroke of the pistons. I am really bummed now. Here is the updated link with photos. http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OverheatingProblem Looking for a new engine now I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11Budlite Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Sorry to hear about the cracked block Martin. :ack: Cracked heads are very common on the B-series motors, but I haven't heard of too many examples of cracked blocks. Used blocks are pretty easy to find in the northeast due to all the rusted-out bodies, but shipping would be the killer. Good luck in your search. Bruce PS: Any thoughts on going to a more modern engine like a Zetec? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHKflyer52 Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 Sorry to hear about the cracked block Martin. :ack: Cracked heads are very common on the B-series motors, but I haven't heard of too many examples of cracked blocks. Used blocks are pretty easy to find in the northeast due to all the rusted-out bodies, but shipping would be the killer. Good luck in your search. Bruce PS: Any thoughts on going to a more modern engine like a Zetec? Well at the moment I am waying my options for an engine. If I put another B engine in means very little reworking of the car and a shorter turn-a-round and I actually know of a good motor in the local area, GM V6 (more horsepower) means modifications to the drive line and bodywork with lots of them avaiable at a reasonable price, Zetec means total reworking the engine bay and trans / driveline to get it into the car plus the expence of a new bell houseing / trans / driveline etc., Mazda Miata engine and trans...fairly cheap compared to a Zetec setup and very sound with lots of proformance parts on the market and a good source of power, still have to modify the car some what to make it work plus locating an engine / trans that is from a low milage car in the local area might be a challenge, Toyota engine and trans means new driveline and mounts, etc. but lots of them around and lots of people that know about them. I will most likely go with another B engine which will keep my car the same and I know the motors and it will fit without any modifications all though a good rebuild cost as much as a good pallet donner motor and trans from Flying Miata with shipping...I just don't know at this time as I am still thinking about it and how I am goingto convince the wife to let me spend more money on one of my toys.....maybe a trip to the Islands or a cruse is in order for the feature who knows at this point. :7frog: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slngsht Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 If you have to spring for a trip to the islands or cruise vacation, aim high and put a Ferrari engine in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHKflyer52 Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 If you have to spring for a trip to the islands or cruise vacation, aim high and put a Ferrari engine in it A friend of mine just called me and said I can have the Jag V12 he has sitting at his shop if I want it....I don't think it will fit with out major mods though. :7frog: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Mazda Miata engine and trans...fairly cheap How to get a FREE Miata engine and transmission. Find the local salvage auction's website (I use this one). Watch as they come along and when you see a low milage Miata ('00 is the best to work with) go and bid on it. Pull off the parts you need then strip out the rest and sell them on the Miata.net classifieds and Craigslist. I did this to get the engine for my Caterham and when all the parts were sold, I had an 18k engine and trans and about $1,500 over my costs to put towards the build. I've since done it again and now have a spare engine and trans sitting in the shop should I need it. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHKflyer52 Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 How to get a FREE Miata engine and transmission. Find the local salvage auction's website (I use this one). Watch as they come along and when you see a low milage Miata ('00 is the best to work with) go and bid on it. Pull off the parts you need then strip out the rest and sell them on the Miata.net classifieds and Craigslist. I did this to get the engine for my Caterham and when all the parts were sold, I had an 18k engine and trans and about $1,500 over my costs to put towards the build. I've since done it again and now have a spare engine and trans sitting in the shop should I need it. Skip Hi Skip, That is a good idea thatI had not considered before now so Thanks for the good info. :7frog: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHKflyer52 Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 Well for all who care I finally decided to keep my car equipped with a BMC engine so I found an MGB GT that was in need of a new home and purchased it for the engine and trans. The Engine an 1800cc had a new head installed recently and a compression test showed that it is good and it runs and starts with ease and has good oil pressure without any knocks or noises and no overheating after running for a while in 109 degree temperature. The car was a project that lost its appeal of the previous owner and it was time for a new home for it so I acquired it at a far price and the previous owner is happy that it will be used appropriately. I will be parting it out after I get the engine out and then cleaned up and into the 7 so if anyone has a need for some good used parts for an MGB GT let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slngsht Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 I always thought MGB GT's had the Rover V8 in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 I always thought MGB GT's had the Rover V8 in them. Only a few of them had the V8s. I don't believe the V8 version was ever sold in the states but some were brought in by individual owners. There was also an MGC GT version with an inline six. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHKflyer52 Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 Mazda and Skip, Their were a couple of MGB GT with the Rover V8 but as Skip stated they were far and few in the USA let alone in Europe. The MG C GT was a little more common but not all that much. Her is a link to a couple of photos of an MG C GTS works car that I know. http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/EasterWeekendRoadTour/photo#5182655108739438370 Enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now