Project Rotus #14 car

[solder_guy]

wolo LTB-10 is even lower profile than the one that I chose! How does it attach to the rollbar? How many LEDs?

 

Rob M

[JohnCh]

I searched for something like the Wolo for a long time. I wanted a third brake light with a very low profile and a lot of LEDs (I believe the LTB-10 has 50 LEDs). The Wolo was perfect and to top it off, it was cheap!

 

 

 

It comes with a mounting tab at each end that is designed to attach to the mouting surface with a screw. I drilled and tapped a small hole in the roll bar for each tab and then attached them with either M3 or M4 dome head allen bolts with a bit of blue locktite. I was a bit paranoid about drilling the roll bar, but after speaking with several race shops, they all agreed that 2 little holes in those locations wouldn't compromise the integrity enough to worry about.

 

 

 

-John

[Boxologist]

FWIW, I went with a Wolo LED unit based on another sevener's recco...

 

 

 

http://www.wolo-mfg.com/light.htm

 

 

 

Scroll down to LTB-10.

 

 

 

hey, Al, did u mount the wolo lights? how did it look with the Jill Judd hood?

[solder_guy]

I have had so little time to work on the car lately due to my work schedule.

 

 

 

I've been servicing the left rear light assembly recently. One brake bulb was out.

 

 

 

I had to jack up the car with a scissors jack due to the low clearance and remove the wheel to access the light assembly. I then wired in the new 3rd LED strip on the roll bar.

 

 

 

In the process of doing this, the 1" thick wooden block spacer broke in two. So I used some wood glue to get it back together.

 

 

 

It's still jacked up so that I can get some LED 1157 and 1156 bulbs. I want to get this done right once so that I don't have to do this just to replace a bulb again. I've used bulb grease on every electrical connection thus far.

 

 

 

Bought a replacement 4 cyl VDO tach off ebay. Now installed and working.

 

 

 

Got the VDO clock looking good in working order (Thanks to Mazda for his old clock for parts.)

 

 

 

I've been trying to id the wiring harness that Dennis Hedges installed. Why does the instrument dimmer knob only dim one VDO gauge?? Some wiring is new and some is original. I checked the functions of all the fuses. Five ID, two still unknown, and one fuse slot is unused.

 

 

 

For some unknown reason the wiper motor failed. So I worked with it for a little while and it started working again. (Mazda: remember that I asked you to ID the round and rectangle thing mounted in front of the passenger seat.) It is a Lucas ws wiper motor.

 

 

 

But I recently got an engraved VIN plate from a friend. Epoxied and Riveted in place. So now I am FINALLY ready to get inspected, tagged and insured.

 

 

 

Rob Mitchell

[solder_guy]

Recent parts acquisitions:

 

 

 

New fiberglass rear fenders

 

New Caterham tail light assemblies

 

New 7" chrome headlights

 

New Calipers x2

 

New rear drum cylinders

 

New master cylinders x3

 

Used master cylinder float caps (from the junkyard)

 

New clutch slave

 

Used Grant F1 Steering wheel (looks great)

 

Used Grant Security System (release system)

 

* it needs a new lock cylinder and keys (ordered from Grant)

 

New Steering wheel storage bag (ordered from Grant)

 

New Grant to Toyota steering spindle adapter

 

Used brass horn pin from the junkyard.

 

New front 7 Grille

 

 

When warm weather strikes again .. the car is getting a new look!

 

Rob Mitchell

[Al N.]

FWIW, I went with a Wolo LED unit based on another sevener's recco...

 

 

 

http://www.wolo-mfg.com/light.htm

 

 

 

Scroll down to LTB-10.

 

 

 

hey, Al, did u mount the wolo lights? how did it look with the Jill Judd hood?

 

 

 

We may have covered this in emails or PMs, but...my guys chose not to drill into the bar, and used foam tape and zip ties on the tabs. As for the Jill Judd and the Wolo, on a good day you can see it, on a bad day it's a dim glow beneath the hood. However, this is just a matter of having someone retrim the hood with a higher center cutout. Jill and Nick did not have the luxury of having my car to work on in person, so it's no surprise.

[solder_guy]

Red Rotus work was slow for a while due to an illness in the family. But this week I've gotten busy.

 

 

 

Yesterday I installed two new front calipers and pads, two new rear drum cylinders, three new master cylinders. I still have to replace the clutch slave cylinder. Then hopefully I can bleed all three circuits tomorrow!

 

 

 

Grant Security System Wheel setup looks and works great!

 

 

 

Rob Mitchell

 

 

[solder_guy]

Bled the brakes yesterday .. but had a leak at the master cylinder banjo bolt for the front brakes.

 

Today took the banjo off and found a warped brass washer. Replaced it with a thicker / newer brass washer .. and rebled and no leak!

 

Then I delt with a frustrating drum situation that finally came together after much fiddling. Whew! I sure wish I had discs in the back.

 

Now on to the clutch slave install and bleed.

 

I hope I have time .. my wife wants me to go shopping for a new TV today. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/yawn.gif

 

[solder_guy]

I noticed that the lug bolts in front are longer than the ones in the rear of my car which has a Corolla drum rear end. So a trip to the junkyard confirmed that mid '70s Toyotas have longer bolts and use longer lug nuts.

 

 

 

So at the junkyard I pounded out 10 longer bolts (2 extra in case I messed up a thread) by wacking on a lug bolt over each one. And today I installed eight on the Rotus rear end. They have about four more threads and give a little better nut bite.

 

 

 

And I installed a new ground wire on the steering shaft for the center horn circuit.

 

 

 

Rob

 

 

[solder_guy]

Replaced a rubber cover (acquired at the junkyard) over the bare brake pedal. I boiled the cover in water in a pot for a few minutes to soften it up and then easily installed it.

 

 

 

I'm replacing the points dizzy with magnetic dizzy and electronic ignition today. Should run better.

 

 

 

Rob

 

 

[solder_guy]

I got ambitious .. and today I removed the windshield .. and unbolted and removed the scuttle. The car looks surprisingly slick and basic without these parts.

 

 

 

Finally I can look at the dash wiring and plan on making some changes.

 

 

 

First things first though .. I easily wired in the Hella Supertones relay so that I finally have the horn function working on my new Grant wheel through the vehicle security system. I had to test it out a few times .. hope I didn't disturb the neighbors too much! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/reddevil.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrinjester.gif

 

 

 

Now I need to drill a new instrument hole for the VDO fuel gauge. Thanks to Dennis Hedges for leaving some wires for the gauge sender. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/yesnod.gif

 

 

 

And finally I can begin wiring in the control box for the Muth Signal Mirrors.

 

 

 

Still need to figure out a system for a turn signal switch and lever.

 

 

 

Rob

[solder_guy]

Got the new turn signal switch mounted and wired in appropriately. And the light at the tip of the lever flashes too! (Two Diodes wired in parallel keep the signal from bleeding to the other side.)

 

Got the Muth Mirror Multifunction Signal circuit box mounted and wired in for all functions.

 

The pushbutton is now an antitailgate brake switch.

 

Horn and High Beam relays work great!

 

Still need to wire in the three fluid reservoir float switches.

 

Still need to wire in the battery cutoff switch.

 

As I go I'm replacing all nuts and bolts with stainless steel ones.

 

Rob Mitchell

 

[solder_guy]

During a lul at work last night (0300) I thoroughly scrubbed and washed my two doors. Then I switched the hinge nuts and bolts to stainless with acorn nuts. They look new again.

 

The three fluid reservoir float switches (from the junkyard) work great .. and signal a LED light in the dash when fluid level is down.

 

I gotta get a bigger drill bit to drill a hole to accommodate the battery cutoff switch.

 

I harvested a complete cruise control circuit and servo from a junkyard Celica today. Gift from a friend who is junking his old Celica. I've already mounted a momentary up, momentary down toggle switch for Set / Resume! This will not be set in place until I switch from Carbs to EFI.

 

BTW: I received the two stone guards for the headlights .. they look great! I think that they mount inside the headlight ring .. but still have to investigate that.

 

Rob Mitchell

 

[solder_guy]

I fooled around with the stone guards and a new headlight assembly last night .. The guards came with three clips .. which I was able to fit within the headlight ring .. and then clip the guard within the clips .. not elegant but functional ..

 

Today I mounted the battery cutoff switch in the dash at far right .. First I cut the vinyl covering the steel dash plate into wedges .. and taped them away from the intended hole area .. then used two successive step drill bits to drill and achieve the proper diameter. Then I pushed the switch the wrong way though the dash which forced the winyl wedges to stay in place for the proper placement of the switch from behind the dash. Looks great! Works great!

 

And I wired in the connector to recharge the battery at the same cutoff terminal.

 

One of those projects that went just perfect from the beginning to end.

 

Rob

 

[Robert O. Urfer]

awesome. Time for some updated photos.

[solder_guy]

Today I realized that I made a mistake when I installed the new calipers .. so I jacked up the front end and remounted both calipers properly.

 

Then I cleaned one headlight .. it had dirt in it .. and was not seated properly .. I had to take a hacksaw to the bolt holding the ring because it was totally rusted. I need to buy new stainless bolts to hold the rings in place.

 

I also wired in a relay by which the three reservoir float sensors can activate the dash light. This is much more reliable than before .. because the sensor switches do have some induction leak.

 

Then I finally figured out the problem with the Muth Multifunction Module simulating an alarm tic. Got that function working with a toggle switch in the dash. It makes the mirrors briefly flash about every 5 seconds. So now I can be better seen when on the road.

 

I also tested the horn function .. by which the Muth Module makes the mirrors flash rapidly.

 

I still need to wire in the function by which the Muth Module makes the mirrors flash rapidly when the car is in reverse.

 

Today I also ordered the Back Off XP module .. which will make the LED lights on the roll bar flash when the brakes are applied and when the car is in reverse.

 

Rob Mitchell

[solder_guy]

Busy weekend .. worked the whole time .. so I only got back to the car today.

 

There was a small problem with the Muth Multifunction Module. The simulated alarm tic was interfering with the turn signal function. So after some brief thought .. I did some wiring testing and relocated one wire. Easily corrected. This wiring project is now finished with the exception of locating the reverse switch on the transmission.

 

Saturday I received the Back Off XP module in the mail. Well made circuit in a small package. When I'm off on Wednesday I'll install it.

 

Gotta clean up the car and get rid of all the tools .. awaiting insurance cards in the mail.

 

Rob

 

[solder_guy]

Got busy today ..

 

Called DeKalb Co to send a police officer to do a VIN search and certify that the VIN is Ok. The officer was impressed with what he saw.

 

Cleaned and put everything back together .. Scuttle and windshield back on. Then drove her to the gas station for the first time .. for the first "fill'er'up"!

 

Then went for an evening drive .. about 5 miles at dusk. Felt good. Got a few stares! I experienced the footwell warmth for the first time.

 

Hopefully I can get her tagged tomorrow. Georgia allows for up to six vanity plate selections. Hopefully SE7EN is not taken.

 

Rob

 

[slngsht]

Got busy today ..

 

Called DeKalb Co to send a police officer to do a VIN search and certify that the VIN is Ok. The officer was impressed with what he saw.

 

Cleaned and put everything back together .. Scuttle and windshield back on. Then drove her to the gas station for the first time .. for the first "fill'er'up"!

 

Then went for an evening drive .. about 5 miles at dusk. Felt good. Got a few stares! I experienced the footwell warmth for the first time.

 

Hopefully I can get her tagged tomorrow. Georgia allows for up to six vanity plate selections. Hopefully SE7EN is not taken.

 

Rob

 

:hurray: that's awesome!

[solder_guy]

Car has been on hiatus for the duration of my vacation .. Now back to the car.

 

I got to it yesterday .. cranked it up and it was running worse ... revving up to 4000 ! So I fiddled with the carbs a little bit and finally just drove it to my mechanic friends' shop. They looked it over and got it running much better. Not perfect but much more manageable.

 

This morning I'm going back to the shop and we're going to put it on the lift just to check out the undercarriage and make sure everything is OK with fuel lines and whatever. Plus I hope to find the reverse switch and wire in the reverse function for for the Muth Mirror Module.

 

I had a problem with the pin connection in the Grant Security Steering wheel interface .. So I bought a new pin at Radio Scrap and will solder and glue in place. The later Grant Security connections are better.

 

Still having a VIN problem .. which I hope to resolve soon. Tag to be done after that.

 

Rob