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How to run 2 alignments: 1 race, 1 street


Hank

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Okay, so I have a dilemma here. I'm ready for an alignment on the Megabusa, but I don't know what to do. I'd like to run an aggressive alignment for autox and roadcourse duties, but I don't want to kill my street wheels/tires. I do not own any of the track side alignment equipment like other grassroots racers own. And I don't want to go to the alignment shop before every race and then back afterwards.

 

So, how do other Se7en owners deal with setting an aggressive race alignment and then drive your vehicle on the street for extended periods?

 

Here's a fairly aggressive alignment from WSCC regarding the Megabusa. Your thoughts?

 

~950lb car

15" wheels, 205/50 tires

2 deg neg camber front

1mm toe out front

1 deg neg camber rear

1mm toe out rear

 

I doubt the toe settings would stay the same if I decided to finish racing and dial the front camber back to 1 deg negative and drive on the street for a few days. I'd leave the rear alone. Essentially I'd like to run 1 deg neg all around for street use and the settings above when I race.

 

Comments?

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What kind of tires are you going to be using. Usually with a bias ply slick you dont need alot of neg camber. Usually no more than 1 degree. You might want to consult your race tire manufacturer for suggestions on max camber. 2 degrees seems excessive to me.

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Maybe I need to start another thread on race slicks for roadcourse use? I'll probably use the 15" wheels with Falken Azenis RT-615s for autox. No clue on what 13" slicks to buy. Hoosier? Avon?

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Hank,

 

I am running the following settings on the street and haven’t noticed any uneven wear.

 

Camber

Front: -2.5

Rear:: -1.5

 

Total Toe

Front: 16 min toe out

Rear: 24 min toe in

 

205/60-13 Toyo R888

 

My car isn’t fitted with ARBs, so has a fair amount of roll and really seems to benefit from extra camber, particularly up front. Another thing to be careful of is chassis rake. Westfields are very sensitive to this and the handling can really suffer if you get it wrong. General consensus is to run 15-25mm higher in the rear using the factory measuring points. My car is in the middle at 20mm.

 

-John

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Is the caster adjustable? Lots of caster can be key as it allows you to run less camber (more caster means the the tires develop more camber as you turn the front wheels) and still get the front end to hook up.

 

Lots of caster allows you to run minimal camber so you have more even tire wear and better braking yet still have the camber needed in a turn.

 

So how much do you have and how much can you get?

 

dave

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John: I am running front and rear ARBs so my camber will definitely be less in the front. I am running the factory Westfield recommended rake (115mm front, 130mm rear).

 

Dave: see post #3 above. Caster is non-adjustable.

 

Did I mention I will be running 13" slicks for racing and 15" street tires for road use?

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John: I am running front and rear ARBs so my camber will definitely be less in the front. I am running the factory Westfield recommended rake (115mm front, 130mm rear).

 

Dave: see post #3 above. Caster is non-adjustable.

 

Did I mention I will be running 13" slicks for racing and 15" street tires for road use?

 

Do you know the caster setting you are stuck with?

 

Dave

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Hank, I wouldn’t necessarily trust the factory supplied height settings. The key figure is the delta from rear to front. The actual ride height will vary based on tire selection and tread wear, both of which will impact the measured height. On a Westfield you want to make sure that the imaginary line drawn between the inner and outer pivot points of the lower front control arm is parallel to the ground. The arm itself should be pointing down a little bit because the center of the outer pivot point is in the ball joint that sits on top of the arm. This drawing highlights what I mean.

 

-John

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