scannon Posted May 13, 2009 Posted May 13, 2009 Nice job, nothing wrong with rattle cans if you know what you are doing.
Flibbie Posted May 13, 2009 Author Posted May 13, 2009 It's my first attempt at painting a car. 2 cans per fender gave about 20 coats. For every minute spent spraying I probably spent an hour rubbing out with rubbing compound (by hand). Still need to do more painting on the hood and trunk. That will have to wait til after LOG.
MHKflyer52 Posted May 13, 2009 Posted May 13, 2009 Wish my paint job was that nice.....I guess I should have used more spray cans as I only bought 6 cans and still have about a half of a can for touch-ups......YEP I am CHEAP...... Again nice pait job.
DeanG Posted May 13, 2009 Posted May 13, 2009 I like the color. It has a classic look. I hope to be able to take a better look at the diffuser at LOG. The enclosed bottom of a Se7en really calls out for one. The owner of a local shop specializing in Minis often refers to rattle can restorations. The fact is that after a spritz of paint or two he can make a car look much better.
jlumba81 Posted May 14, 2009 Posted May 14, 2009 Did you use a clearcoat after the basecoat? If I go that route I might wet sand it to get rid of the runs. Great results nice to see someone not afraid to paint their car.
Flibbie Posted May 14, 2009 Author Posted May 14, 2009 jlumba81, I may try a clear coat later. I have concerns with clear-coating when the time comes for touch-up due to rock chips. About runs in the paint; firstly, I'm far from expert on this so this is just my experience..It is by FAR easier to not get runs than have to remove them. Duplicolor recomends thin coats 10 min. apart but within 1 hr. So I sprayed 1 coat, waited 10 min. then sprayed again. 20 times per fender. A week later I wet sanded with 600 grit then 1000, then 1500, then 2000. I've read that it is very easy to burn thru the paint with a power buffer. So I wrapped a wet terry cloth around my finger tip and using a coarse rubbing compound rubbed an area about 6" square at a time. This was followed by a rub with medium then fine compound. 2 months later I repeated using a scratch removing compound then carnuaba wax. Total cost for 4 fenders painted less than $50. Jim
southwind25 Posted May 14, 2009 Posted May 14, 2009 I have actually done things like this, the only problem is, because the paint doesnt have a hardener, it will chip like crazy, and it will have to be polished allot.. it wont retain it's shine, not even with rattle can clear. i was going to do my wheels with a charcoal black this winter,,,but i dont think they would hold up with a simple rattle can job. i wish it would, because you can get a really nice initial job with the cans..
jlumba81 Posted May 16, 2009 Posted May 16, 2009 I don't suppose anyone here has tried Duplicolor's ready to spray paint?
West7se Posted May 16, 2009 Posted May 16, 2009 Great job Flibbie, I have always used rattle cans. I actually painted an entire car with them - an expensive way of doing it granted but the finish was as equal as a compressor would have been. For me the secret of rattlecans is the temperature of the can, i will often heat up the can in hot water to raise the pressure even in summer. As with any paint job, its only as good as the preparation done to the bodywork, but rattlecans are great. I have found in the last 5 years that cellulose has now been replaced by acrilic and I dont think its as good at holding the finish as cellulose would have done, although it sprays and goes on fine in the beginning. I am planning on painting the 7 this summer with cans, not found a colour I like yet.......
DeanG Posted May 16, 2009 Posted May 16, 2009 For sanding paint get a "rubber" or foam sanding block. It helps eliminate uneven pressure caused by your fingers on flat and gently curved surfaces. Also put a spot or two dish detergent in the water to keep the paper from loading up.
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