Torque wrench

[Croc]

My good old torque wrench looks like it has broken (mechanism will not hold any torque now in either direction). It was about 10 years old so I am not too upset.

 

Looking at replacements, what do others use for their cars? Brands, digital vs dial vs beam vs gauge, size, etc. Recommendations and suggestions gratefully welcomed.

[m wirth]

Hello, I have always used a click type, or what they call now a micrometer type, for its durability and repeatability. You also don't have to be looking at it to know when torque is reached. Mine are an older Proto 50-250 and a newer Snap-on 15-80, both are very good quality.

mike

[Ian7]

Proto or Craftsman click type for chassis work, Snap-On for engine work...

 

... beam type make good wheel chocks. (IMHO)

[slomove]

I am cheap and use a clicky one from Harborfreight. I calibrate it once per year with a piece of lumber and a milk jug and it usually comes in at 4-5% over the setting. Not too bad for 25 bucks.

[Hank]

Don't forget to put your torque wrench back to zero before you put it back in the toolbox.

[breezy7]

 

Slomove, can you explain your calibration technique?

 

Mike

[slomove]

I calibrate it once per year with a piece of lumber and a milk jug and it usually comes in at 4-5% over the setting.

 

Slomove, can you explain your calibration technique?

 

Mike

 

 

Set the torque wrench to the setting to be calibrated and clamp the square in a vise so that the handle is horizontal.

Then take an 8' piece of 2x2 lumber, mark about 1/3 and strap the longer side to the wrench handle (duct tape or cable ties) with the mark above the square. Then balance the short side with some weight so that the lumber and handle don't give you a bias.

 

Now you fill a bucket or jug with water to give e.g. 5 or 10 pounds (kitchen scale, not bathroom scale) and slide the bucket handle inward from the end of the long side of the lumber stick until it just stops clicking when lowering. The weight times the distance from the mark is the actual torque. For higher torque you may need a 2x4.

 

It is a bit crude and may take 20 minutes for 4 or 5 different settings but it is pretty precise and, as I mentioned I am cheap.

 

 

Another method that should work but I have not tried:

 

- affix the lumber stick as mentioned above but don't balance

- set a good bathroom scale under the end of the stick.

- step on the scale and lift the stick as to relieve the weight from the wrench

- read the scale and don't mention the reading to your wife

- now push the stick down until it just barely clicks

- read the scale again

- multiply the weight difference with the distance of your hand from the wrench square (may need a rope or ring to get a precise contact point)

Edited March 6, 2011 by slomove

[drew...]

- read the scale and don't mention the reading to your wife

:jester:

[danilo]

From a quick google search:

 

I own both types. I use either with no regard or concern for problems.

 

Where I work (and I'm a statistical quality engineer) we use beam-type torque measurement tools (certified by outside accredited agencies) to calibrate our other instruments.

 

Beam type is far simpler, and therefore less likely to be suspect to error.

 

However, the quality of "click" type has come so far that the question of accuracy is really a non-issue now.

 

Choose based upon your percieved balance of use, convenience, and cost. Either one will be fine.