Jackal Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Tim the tool man noises plus much drooling........... It's looking like there will be a bit of bodging to get it all going. The Jenvey looks amazing, and I can't wait to get it installed. I have the linkage assembly put together loosly already. I'm not such a fan of the filter setup though, and would like to get a pair of K&N, or similar oval filters and top/bottom plates. I have seen some of the cool Honda kids using independant filters for each ITB too, and those setups look pretty nice as well. I have seen a few different setups here, and on the Birkin Yahoo group, but I have yet to find any PN's. I was disappointed to see the backplate for the filter isn't even drilled for the kit _THEY_ sent. :banghead: I have double checked on the website, and it shows the plate I paid for as drilled for the TB's. I was also a little disappointed that not all the hardware was included. The cap screws for mounting the ITB to the manifold, and the manifold to the head were not included either. It's a small inconvenience to go get the cap screws, but after shoveling money out, and waiting for weeks, it would seem the right thing for them to do. The alternator kit is a bit of a shot in the dark. I had tried to purchase a Raceline bracket before, but the deal fell through. I then heard they may not fit in the Birkin from folks around here. I checked with kitspares.co.uk and they said they have had success with thier kit, so on a gut shot I thought I'd give it a try. The only catch with that kit, is the lack of instructions. I'm the type of guy who likes to read instructions, and feel there will be a lot of guess and check tonight when I tackle that project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancylad Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Seems odd that the hardware was,t included, I would be a bit miffed as well. No instructions seems odd as well, when all else fails......read the destructions! do they have an online instruction PAGE? Dropped the cylinder head off yesterday, getting it line bored to accept a high lift cam and also having the valve seats redone. Get it back in about two weeks. Slow progress.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackal Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Seems odd that the hardware was,t included, I would be a bit miffed as well. No instructions seems odd as well, when all else fails......read the destructions! do they have an online instruction PAGE? For the price of the complete intake kit, I would have expected the capscrews at least. There are eight missing from the manifold/ITB union, and another 12-16 for the monifold/Head union. I didn't find out the thread patern last night, so tonight I'll double check the thread in the head, and get all the remaining hardware tomorrow. No, no instructions online either. The Intake is easy enough, but I have a bunch of crazy brackets for the alternator and little direction as to the orientation. There is a chap who has a blog about it though. The details are a bit lean, but there are a couple pictures. Here's the total guide for the kit from the Kitspares site: http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.php?cat=5&product=5021&catsub=0 And from the other fellow's site: http://gbszerobuild.blogspot.com/2011/10/fitting-alternator.html Dropped the cylinder head off yesterday, getting it line bored to accept a high lift cam and also having the valve seats redone. Get it back in about two weeks. Slow progress.. I know what you mean about the slow progress. I just can't seem to get the traction I need to make significant progress. Good to see you're getting some progress on motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancylad Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Just checked out both links, time for a gin and tonic..... I want to see your face the first time you fire this baby up! It will all be worth the agro trust me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3 Stalker Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Steve is right, when the engine fires for the first time it will certainly make you smile!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancylad Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 I grinned like a Cheshire cat the first I fired Madge up, have,t stopped smiling since.. :cooldude: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 After 80+ hours of building a Mazda engine/ECU wiring harness and integrating it into the Caterham chassis here's how I reacted on the first start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancylad Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 More Tim the tool man noises.......drool- grunts. ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanG Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 I saw the smoke. No fair stopping the video just when it gets interesting. What is the idle rpm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 The initial timing was set by guess and there was a small vacuum leak. The RPM was probably around 2,500 - 3,000 on start up. It now idles at 1,250 RPM. The engine was not new (18K miles) and had been pre-oiled before start up so no damage to the engine. The smoke was from the preservative on the new turbo manifold. There were probably some greasy fingerprints on the turbo and exhaust as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackal Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 Well, I am disappointed to write that the Kitspares kit was not the silver bullet I had hoped it would be, but the alternator will be much easier to fit that the one I was give with the kit. The Kitspares alternator is about half the size. The pulley bracket does not quite fit, but it will require only a small amount of modification to make it work. The bracket for the alternator itself will need a complete redo though. That bracket mounts the alternator slightly upward from where it mounts to the block. This causes the top of the alternator to hit the support brace that runs from the foot box to the headlight bracket. The alternator bracket needs to go downward about an inch and a half. I think I'll take a buddy up on his fab skills and get him to cut the bracket and mount the arms (or fab new ones) slightly downward. Tonight I'll take some pictures to show what I'm running into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine7 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Jackal, Yep, exactly the same problem I had when looking for a solution for my Birkin alternator. The diagonal brace you mentioned is not a problem for Caterhams, but is for the Birkin. You need to find a way to mount the alternator lower and closer to the block while still clearing the oil filter. Seems simple enough, but making if work on an engine in the car is a real pain. I mocked my solution up utilizing the crate motor I had at the time out of the car. Good luck and keep us informed. I'm very interested in how others have solved the problem. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackal Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Jackal, Yep, exactly the same problem I had when looking for a solution for my Birkin alternator. The diagonal brace you mentioned is not a problem for Caterhams, but is for the Birkin. You need to find a way to mount the alternator lower and closer to the block while still clearing the oil filter. Seems simple enough, but making if work on an engine in the car is a real pain. I mocked my solution up utilizing the crate motor I had at the time out of the car. Good luck and keep us informed. I'm very interested in how others have solved the problem. Jason It looks like I should have plenty of room moving it down around an inch to an inch and a half. The pulley bracket really only needs to have another hole made in it, and it should work. I'll be mounting it with a lengthened top bolt for the water pump. (the only Torx bolt I've found on the motor) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackal Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 Some pics of the Kitspares brackets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackal Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 I got a bunch of updates on my blog, but not a tonne of progress. You can check out the blog here: http://lennardj.shawwebspace.ca/ I'll paraphrase the last bunch of updates. The coles notes if you will. The alternator bracket I was hoping was the silver bullet to my mounting challenges has been cut apart, and will have new arms welded to it. Thanks to a great member here, who also lets me rent his garage the arms were cut today. I hope to get a welding lesson tomorrow to stick some metal together. I didn't think it would be so hard to fit a significantly smaller alternator in the car. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/c819e661.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/1d77c509.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8220-1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackal Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 I have assembled most of the Intake manifold, with the exception of the backplate and the trumpets that go on top. Since the alternator sits just below the intake, I'll need that in before I can install the intake permanently and get the fitment of the back plate right. The back plate will not fit if it is centered right on the intake, and to fit it correctly I'll need the to have the hood buckled down correctly. The hood needs the scuttle fitted, the scuttle needs the dash and the electrical in, the electrical........ http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/58c1c32f.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8207.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackal Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 Speaking of the dash. I got the new back plate in for the dash. I didn't like the way the first one was cut, and even though I won't be seeing it, I still felt it needed a new back plate. Nine dollars of aluminum and a couple minutes work, and I have the back plate mounted and riveted in. Then came the carbon fiber dash. I held my breath and got it drilled and ready to be cut up some more. The little silver things on the CF dash are rare earth magnets. I use them to tell me where the chassis cross braces are for riveting, and to help confirm my measurements for the gauge fitment. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8222.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8212.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/d96b80df.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackal Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 Just playing around, I wanted to see what the tires looked like side by next. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/7bf15544.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackal Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 Ordered thePainless wiring kit today. I was tired of dealing with hacked up, crumbly, mislabeled and generally just crap wiring. Kitty was tired of having me come home frustrated and pulling my hair out from working on it. Kitty was kind enough to get me the Painless wiring kit, and I have to say; I am so lucky to have a girl who tolerates, and understands me. With that order in, I have a little time to do some of the little projects needed to finish off the build. I have been wondering how to deal with the switches for the things like the lights, hazards, heated windscreen, heater (if I install it), and any other I may want to wire in. The new carbon fiber dash was not going to get the numerous holes I had planned for the switch layout. The kit came with a little carbon fiber part for behind the gear shift that normally held the vent flaps for the heater, the fan switch, and a couple spots for other switches (?). I decided to adapt it the way I want it. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/27869d29.jpg I started by sanding it all down and getting it nice and smooth. I filled the large hole with some chicken wire filler and fiber glass. Then bondo'd up the the holes to make it smooth. I drilled out the holes that were currently there, and decided to use five holes for the panel. I figure a couple free switches will be ok for the balance of the look. Since the holes were there, and the piece was not square to begin with, I started the long process of guestimating the exact ??? location for the other two holes to be drilled. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/77b0c373.jpg I then added holes for the rest of the look. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/6b4b4943.jpg Just have to open the bottom hole up a bit for the start button, and then break out the Plasi dip. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/0884821c.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancylad Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Keep going mate, you're making progress. My head is back from the machine shop, should be able to start re- assembly next week. Are you going to be able to make it to Airdrie for the next Alberta get together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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