Cosworth Dry Sump Question

[blubarisax]

I am putting in high lift cams and a locking cam tensioner. To do so I need to remove the cover of the Duratec 2.3L motor. I have a Cosworth Dry Sump. To take off the cover I need to remove a stud/nut that goes to the dry sump. When I turn the nut, the whole stud rotates. Does anyone know how to remove this stud/nut. Cosworth has not been able to tell me. Here is a photo of the stud. Any help would be appreicated!

 

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/blubarisax/DrySumpStud_zps26b5b6ce.png

 

and a picture of the stud from the internet:

 

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/blubarisax/YD8107_7_zpsebfc5a1f.jpg

Edited February 16, 2013 by blubarisax

[MHKflyer52]

From the looks of the second photo to me the stud your talking about is located by the chain (upper right of the photo) and is a pressed fit into the case like a wheel stud. If this is so you will most likely will have to use a nut splitter to remove the nut or cut the nut and stud off with a die grinder and then replace the stud and nut.

Hope this helps.

:driving:

[blubarisax]

Martin, I'm hoping not to have to pull the dry sump just to replace cams!

[MHKflyer52]

You could also try putting a slot in the end of the stud so you can hold it with a straight slot screwdriver so you can remove the nut. Just a idea.

[Croc]

Martin, I'm hoping not to have to pull the dry sump just to replace cams!

 

 

I am not sure that the pictures have helped me locate which bolt you are trying to remove? Is this the bolt that connects sump to block?

 

I recall to get into the dry sump you need to take out the engine.

 

Do you want me to make a mercy trip to your garage? I accept beer as donations! :seeya:

[S1Steve]

You could also try putting a slot in the end of the stud so you can hold it with a straight slot screwdriver so you can remove the nut. Just a idea.

 

I'm thinking the same as Martin, I see one flat on the stud but not two?

If there is two flats you can put the correct size open end wrench on it and turn off the nut.

 

Had to tell by just the photo....

[blubarisax]

I like the slot idea of Martin. It seems the stud connects the dry sump to the front cover.

 

I really don't want to pull the motor (again). Once the nut is off, there is not much room between the tube frame and the cover. Maybe just unbolting the motor mounts and transmission, then lifting the whole drive train up a little will give me room to get the front cover over the stud.

 

Mike, your are welcome to come for a beer, but I am leaving the work to Radical Motorsports. I'm just micro managing!

Edited February 16, 2013 by blubarisax

[Croc]

Ok...I know which bolt now. it is an engine out job on a CSR with the cosworth 2.3. Hopefully that does not apply to you in an SV chassis.

[blubarisax]

can't say that sounds good

[nicemd]

On the CSR there is plenty of room in front of the engine and it is possible to remove the front cover with the engine in place. At least with the dampers removed. (I did it this winter)

 

Also, on the CSR (Titan dry sump, but looks very similar to Cosworth's) there is a slot in the end of the stud. It is visible on some of the pictures here: http://csr200.blogspot.se/2011/12/engine-upgrade-part-2-disassemble.html

[S1Steve]

nicemd, I read your blog this morning with a cup of coffee, well written and full of good

tips.

Enjoy your CSR, Steve

[Jon W.]

When I turn the nut, the whole stud rotates. Does anyone know how to remove this stud/nut.

 

Remove stud and nut. Replace stud. It looks damaged anyway.

 

Or, after removal, double-nut (locked against one another) the inside end of stud to remove outer nut.

[blubarisax]

I don't want to have to remove the dry sump to get the stud out. This should have been an easy job. So, unless Cosworth comes up with another plan, I'll just cut a slot in the end of the stud and back off the nut.

[Jon W.]

Headed stud, understand now.

 

In the following order, I would try:

 

1. Impact wrench. Sometimes works.

2. Second flat and wrench holding stud.

3. Slot for screw driver, although section is already reduced.

4. Weld something on top of stud to hold it while loosening nut, then cut off excess.

 

Replacing the nut will be provide reduced clamping force if it can't be tightened.

[blubarisax]

Jon,

 

Thanks for the tips. Hopefully we will get it sorted out tomorrow. Lots of work to do before getting on the track March 9 & 10.

[Birkin42]

Looking at the stud, isn't there already flats on the stud that you can hold with an open end wrench while backing off the nuts?

Also, I've had good luck using an impact wrench as this sometimes allows removal of nuts when you can't stop the stud/bolt from turning.

[RAILROAD7]

I was thinking you might be able to use a nut the same as what's on it now,and cut a slot down one side to open it to the inside,then if it's treaded on you could use some Vice Grips to snug it closed tight to hold the end of the stud.It looks like there's not alot of stud above the nut now,but there may just be enough to grab and get the first turn.Just my thoughts,good luck. Barry

[blubarisax]

Thanks for the help guys, we are in! Filed the sides of the stud flat.

[Sean]

Hi Karl - YHM, sir.