wcm s2k and caterham for sale on ebay

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welcome aboard cobra,

westtexas was right about the roads in your area. certainly the best time i've had on the street in my car has been in your area.

i have found this site very helpful when shipping cars:

http://www.transportreviews.com/

[coffee break]

Try GA Hwy 9 north above Cumming. It was fun earlier this week.

[Bruce K]

Hi Bruce! Sadly, I just checked my inbox now and only have Jim and my chats. I'd love the information still, if you have it! You can also send it my way to webmaster at liquidearth dot org via email.

 

I've filled out a few online shipper quotes already, but I'll have to get more done tomorrow and this weekend. The bank/post office took absolutely forever... both said workers had called in sick. That's not the first time though. Maybe I should use up all my sick days when the Seven comes in? xD

 

Ttys!

 

Jason

hey, cobra. really wierd that TWO private messages disappeared! anyway, here's the gist of what i recommend:

 

REMOTE PURCHASE: find a sportscar repair facility local to your buyer. access the internet and vet the facility for satisfactory feedback. require your purchaser to take the car to that facility. hire the facility to completely check out the car: check motor (leakdown, belts, plug condition, charging, more), check for driveline leaks, check tranny, check diff and u-joints, check steering shaft joints and rack, check wheel bearings, check brakes+rotors+pads, check suspension (hiems and links). after the rack work, have them drive the car for a while, so they can report on general performance and all components after getting warmed up. these evaluations typically cost me between $250 and $300.

 

MAINTENANCE: change all fluids. i now use amsoil racing for engine and diff, and the stock "green bottle" honda lube for the tranny (stock honda lube gives the smoothest shifts, protect synchros). can't remember, but check to see if your car has an LSD diff which may need a friction-element lube. flush and fill coolant. flush brakes and refill with dot4 hi-temp fluid, so you can push the car without fear of boiling the brake fluid (DON'T use dot5 silicone). your car was never tracked, has low miles and is pretty new. therefore, your hiems and links should be in good shape. if you need any of these parts, search this forum for several sources. lastly, you should 4-wheel align the car including corner weighting for your dressed driving weight. after several bad experiences, i never trust the alignment on any new or used car that i purchase. make sure the shop has a laser-guided rack, can align all four wheels, and know how to align a street/track car. i can send you some good alignment specs - let me know if you need them.

 

UPGRADES: many of the WCM S2K owners (myself included) have fabbed and fitted a crosswise differential nose brace to their cars, and upgraded the u-shaped diff /tranny brace which comes stock with the cars (it fits just forward of the crosswise brace). the more recent S2K's have both of these improvements already installed. examine your car. if these are not installed, and you plan on spirited driving, track days, etc., then plan on having them fabbed and installed to prevent failures that will create MUCH more work (see RNR's posts). search elsewhere on this forum for more info on these upgrades. i can send you some pages from a manual jim rankin and i are creating, with the entire fab-and-fit process well-detailed for you - let me know. also, the higher final drive ratios are ok for autocross, but won't give you great acceleration off the line. if you want better performance including 3.5 seconds to 60, you will need to fit a limited slip 4.11 or 4.54. having fitted the 4.11 to mine, and tracked it, i consider 4.11 ideal for both street and track. it provides 2 gears to 60 with room to spare, and on the track you are primarily using 3rd and 4th, which are MUCH easier shifts than 4th and 5th.