toedrag Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 Gah, no worky. It just changed the point of interference from the side of the toe rod to the bottom of the toe rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 My spindle uprights look the same as yours if that is any consolation. However I did not get to work on my car this weekend. I had family stuff yesterday and lawn care and outside work today I can't tell about your arms. I would need to see a straight down shot to compare to mine. Preferably next to a tape measure. Hopefully I will be fitting mine this week. It's my next step since I don't have a scuttle yet. I also don't have shocks though, so I won't be able to put those in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlumba81 Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Possible mix up with front and rear control arms or do they all look the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 Possible mix up with front and rear control arms or do they all look the same? Nah, it's pretty difficult to screw that up. The lower control arms are all very different. The uppers are different front to back, but similar side to side. I'm pretty sure I've got them right, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 You can barely see that long part that the heim mounts to in this picture. Hard to tell at that angle, but that looks longer to me than what we have?? Also, do you have your rotors? If you put on a 12.75" rotor you could use that second picture as a reference, or just measure as if a rotor was there. See if yours comes close to where this one shows it. Also, you said you were not going to press in the hubs? How will you make sure the body fits to the wheels/tires and has the proper gap etc? I guess you could just have the spindle pieces powder coated ahead of time? I guess I will powder coat mine beforehand, but I have a powder coat setup here. It just isn't big enough for a frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Brit, Give Scott a shout out tomorrow and have him get in front of his comuter and reference your Gallery suspension file (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=24553). I've spent a little time tonight studying your photos as well as some others (all M-Spec/XL rear suspension). I'm by no means saying they are, but I'm wondering if the mountinng tabs (as you pointed out) have been machined too short. If so, this could have easily slipped through the cracks on Scott's end (picked up from the machine shop and never noticed). For grins and giggles, measure from the tip of the mounting tab to the rear of the spindle on both the front and rear spindles; see if they are the same length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlumba81 Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Measuring the pic on the previous page the mounting tabs on the front and rear spindles are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 You can barely see that long part that the heim mounts to in this picture. Hard to tell at that angle, but that looks longer to me than what we have?? Also, do you have your rotors? If you put on a 12.75" rotor you could use that second picture as a reference, or just measure as if a rotor was there. See if yours comes close to where this one shows it. Also, you said you were not going to press in the hubs? How will you make sure the body fits to the wheels/tires and has the proper gap etc? I guess you could just have the spindle pieces powder coated ahead of time? I guess I will powder coat mine beforehand, but I have a powder coat setup here. It just isn't big enough for a frame. Yeah, I'm thinking they are too short. No, don't have my rotors yet. On the powdercoating, I was going to finish the dry fit and then get the spindles powdercoated. Brit, Give Scott a shout out tomorrow and have him get in front of his comuter and reference your Gallery suspension file ([url=http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=24553][/url]http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=24553). I've spent a little time tonight studying your photos as well as some others (all M-Spec/XL rear suspension). I'm by no means saying they are, but I'm wondering if the mountinng tabs (as you pointed out) have been machined too short. If so, this could have easily slipped through the cracks on Scott's end (picked up from the machine shop and never noticed). For grins and giggles, measure from the tip of the mounting tab to the rear of the spindle on both the front and rear spindles; see if they are the same length. Yeah, I'll probably call Scott tomorrow. The rear spindle tab/hole is only 1/4" further vs the front spindle from the rearmost edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Hang in there Brit. The first time you step on the go pedal, It'll all be worth it. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 Thx, Shane. Very true. I know it'll get sorted out eventually, and I'm still holding onto the idea that it's somehow user error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 (edited) Got clarification from Scott on the rear toe rod and other items (the hood is still puzzeling us both, however. Need to take more pics & send to Scott) : jlumba81 was headed in the right direction with his toe rod suggestion The newer spindle design that jevs & I have requires that the toe rod mounts on TOP of the tab on the spindle (per jlumba81's earlier suggestion) with the cone washers but without the 5 regular washers as shown in the video & in my earlier picture, and the other end of the toe rod mounts to the top-most hole in the bracket at the frame using a 2.5" bolt and appropriate cone spacers. Other details we discussed: Regarding the Rocker bushings, the build video shows Delrin bushings & brass washers. However, the current HW kit provides carbon-brass metal bushings without any brass washers. Just have to pound the bushings into the rockers, and before adding the inner sleeve, use a little grease. I think I'll press in the bushings after getting the rockers powdercoated. On the rockers where the shocks mount, if the rocker opening is too tight for the shock's spacers to fit with reasonable effort, it's okay to grind the spacer down. My fronts were snug in the rocker, but the rear rockers are about 1/16 too narrow; I'll grind the spacers down so that it's snug, not "need a hammer" tight like it is today. On on the rear rockers where the pushrods mount, the 1/2" holes were a tiny bit too small, and it's fine to use a 1/2" bit to widen them Back on track! :hurray: Edited August 25, 2014 by toedrag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Copy and pasted to my notes. That will save me some hassle! Did you order your 02 sensors? The parts list calls for 2001 Camaro SS ones. I am waiting on an e-mail from Scott to verify if this is correct or not for the LS3/LS376 with their engine management (have not received mine yet). Bosch has different part numbers for a 2011 Camaro SS vs 2001 Camaro SS even for the universals and they look a bit different. Also, did your Wilwood calipers come with pads? There are no pads on the shopping list and I am not near my calipers today to look at them. I am not sure what to buy pads for if they are not with the calipers. I am trying to place a parts order and I am stuck until I know those two things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 Copy and pasted to my notes. That will save me some hassle! Did you order your 02 sensors? The parts list calls for 2001 Camaro SS ones. I am waiting on an e-mail from Scott to verify if this is correct or not for the LS3/LS376 with their engine management (have not received mine yet). Bosch has different part numbers for a 2011 Camaro SS vs 2001 Camaro SS even for the universals and they look a bit different. I haven't ordered my O2 sensors yet; probably won't for a while. Ditto the ECM; apparently, GMPP has been backordered for a while. Also, did your Wilwood calipers come with pads? There are no pads on the shopping list and I am not near my calipers today to look at them. I am not sure what to buy pads for if they are not with the calipers. My kit came with pads: 150-10007k and 150-9413k (one box each, containing 4 pads ). I should also note that my front calipers are 6 piston and rears are 4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Per the earlier discussion of bolt strength, here's a .pdf of a cheat sheet I put together. Note the strength is ultimate tensile, not yield. I use this for rough sizing but do an actual stress analysis for real designs. Have fun, Dan Yes, the same sheet has the various combinations of distance, acceleration, time, and velocity. Doesn't everyone use those every day? ScrewSizeChart.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 Per the earlier discussion of bolt strength, here's a .pdf of a cheat sheet I put together. Note the strength is ultimate tensile, not yield. I use this for rough sizing but do an actual stress analysis for real designs. Have fun, Dan Yes, the same sheet has the various combinations of distance, acceleration, time, and velocity. Doesn't everyone use those every day? Fan-tastic! Thx a ton:hurray: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Got my toe rod installed correctly, but I'm wondering if a few washers will still be required b/c now the toe rod contacts the nut/bolt that's holding the pushrod. I estimate that 4-5 washers will lift up the toe rod enough to clear the bolt/nut. It's hard to tell since none of the bolts are tightened up...will post a picture later. Got the 1/2" holes in the rockers drilled out, and the bolts slide right in Shaved the rear shock spacers; ended up using a stationary belt sander with 80 grit to take off a tiny bit at a time, rotating the spacer 90 deg after a few passes to keep the face nice & flat. Only took off about 1/32 from each face, and wrapped blue painter's tape around the spacer to use as my reference line. I changed my mind and went ahead and installed the rocker bushings, with help from my assistant (no, those aren't my Batman crocs). Not sure if it helped, but I put the bushings in the freezer yesterday. Today, I got 'em started with a rubber mallet, then lightly tapped with the regular hammer to get it square in the opening, and then drove it in with 3-4 good whacks. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27094&g2_serialNumber=3 My helper hammering in the bushing, using scrap AL to keep from damaging the bushing face http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27097&g2_serialNumber=3 A little grease to help the inner sleeve slide into the bushings. I set both bushings first and then installed the sleeve. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27099&g2_serialNumber=3 Using my helper's tiny hammer b/c he ran off with my BFH http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27101&g2_serialNumber=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 I haven't ordered my O2 sensors yet; probably won't for a while. Ditto the ECM; apparently, GMPP has been backordered for a while. My kit came with pads: 150-10007k and 150-9413k (one box each, containing 4 pads ). I should also note that my front calipers are 6 piston and rears are 4. Just thought I would let you know. Scott says my engine harness/computer will come with O2 sensors. Also, I just didn't get any pads yet. You might want to check the downloads for an updated parts list. Bunch of stuff changed with cooling and a couple other things. Also some new pics of different things were added to the build stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Got my toe rod installed correctly..... Where is the picture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Just thought I would let you know. Scott says my engine harness/computer will come with O2 sensors. Also, I just didn't get any pads yet. You might want to check the downloads for an updated parts list. Bunch of stuff changed with cooling and a couple other things. Also some new pics of different things were added to the build stuff. Thx! I'll go check it out. It'd be nice if Google Drive sent an email when files changed; maybe there's a setting somewhere....I received my ECU yesterday; I'll go through it tonight and will take some photos. Where is the picture? Here you go. You can see that the toe rod heim at the spindle is being held up by the pushrod bolt a few inches back. I looked at the photo of the new spindle with the toe rod on the Google Drive, and it looks good, except that the lower control arm has no bracket for the pushrod http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27103&g2_serialNumber=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 (edited) I didn't see any new suspension pics. I do notice that they have the lower push rod bolt in the other way on the silver chassis. The nut is on the side of the toe rod. However it's wouldn't be in the way for them because the toe rod is lower. By the way, my front wheel hubs slide right into the spindles (no press fit needed). Wonder if your holes are a bit small? I have not tried the rears yet. Edit: Found the 2 pics. I missed them when I was scouring for changes. Our lower arms don't look like that, but that plate could have just been for a flat platform to locate the bracket exactly where needed on the prototype?? Edit again: I see the video says the hubs are press fit....time to send another email. Edited August 27, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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