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Brunton Stalker XL #22 Build


toedrag

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The pictures of the new spindle w/toe rod are actually in the Suspension video section. I originally had my push rod bolt in the same way as the video, but since the toe rod contacted the nut, I decided to try flipping the bolt around to see if it would provide the necessary gap, which it didn't :(

 

Re: wheel hub press fit: interesting; I took it at face value of the build video that they are pressed in by tightening the bolts. I haven't taken the hubs out of the boxes yet, but I will later. I wonder if they are supposed to press in...

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The pictures of the new spindle w/toe rod are actually in the Suspension video section. I originally had my push rod bolt in the same way as the video, but since the toe rod contacted the nut, I decided to try flipping the bolt around to see if it would provide the necessary gap, which it didn't :(

 

Re: wheel hub press fit: interesting; I took it at face value of the build video that they are pressed in by tightening the bolts. I haven't taken the hubs out of the boxes yet, but I will later. I wonder if they are supposed to press in...

 

I don't feel any slop. It feels like a close tolerance fit even though it goes in with ease. I shot them an email just to make sure it is ok. Let us know how yours fit. This is better as far as ease of assembly/disassembly goes, so hopefully they are just getting a better fit now and press in is not needed.

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I changed my mind and went ahead and installed the rocker bushings, with help from my assistant (no, those aren't my Batman crocs). Not sure if it helped, but I put the bushings in the freezer yesterday. Today, I got 'em started with a rubber mallet, then lightly tapped with the regular hammer to get it square in the opening, and then drove it in with 3-4 good whacks.

 

 

My helper hammering in the bushing, using scrap AL to keep from damaging the bushing face

 

A little grease to help the inner sleeve slide into the bushings. I set both bushings first and then installed the sleeve.

 

 

Using my helper's tiny hammer b/c he ran off with my BFH

 

Bushings all press in easily with a vice and smooth jaws....I just did mine. I did put a little grease on to help them slide. Smoother than a hammer and presses them in square getting started.

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Bushings all press in easily with a vice and smooth jaws....I just did mine. I did put a little grease on to help them slide. Smoother than a hammer and presses them in square getting started.

 

That makes way too much sense! Especially considering I had a perfectly usable vice 3 ft away.

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Answer to the wheel hub fitment:

"Yeah they should be fine. Some slide right in, and sometimes they need some influence."

 

Mine fronts fit very nicely!

 

I like the metal bushings and inserts on the rockers we have better than the old M-spec style with delrin. We can leave them in for powder coat. Just have to bake out the little bit of grease used to press them in so it does not turn liquid, run out and ruin the powder.

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Answer to the wheel hub fitment:

"Yeah they should be fine. Some slide right in, and sometimes they need some influence."

 

Mine fronts fit very nicely!

 

I like the metal bushings and inserts on the rockers we have better than the old M-spec style with delrin. We can leave them in for powder coat. Just have to bake out the little bit of grease used to press them in so it does not turn liquid, run out and ruin the powder.

 

Excellent! I just checked my front & rear hubs and they were a nice tight fit.

 

My ECM kit does have qty 2 Delphi O2 sensors:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27106&g2_serialNumber=3

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OEM wiring harness?

 

I'm told that's the GMPP ECU kit (19258270), which [hopefully] should play nicely with the GMPP crate motor I plan to buy.

 

EDIT: Correction, I later discover in Oct/Nov that the harness is from Current Performance Wiring and the ECU is an E38 (12633238)

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Man, every time I look at the suspension set up on these cars, I'm in awe. I love all the heims and the general design of the system; it's part of what drew me to the car. Everything is so accessible, so serviceable, and functional.

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Finished the rear suspension test fit, but I seem to missing a couple of cone washers & nuts, but no biggy. A few of the 1/2" holes in the rear control arms on the passenger side were too narrow, so I had to drill them with a 1/2" bit, which required that I get creative due to space constraints.

 

For the upper holes, I inserted the drill bit from the rearward side of the bracket. I know what you're thinking: "If you could get a drill bit in there, why do you need to drill it out?" Well, all I can tell you is that the full (non-threaded) shank of the bolt wouldn't pass through that hole with moderate pressure, and I didn't feel like hammering it through was a good idea. Once I attached the bit to the right angle drill and spun the bit with a quick shot of the trigger, that's all it needed, and the bolt would slide through with ease. Maybe a round file would have worked just as well, but I don't have one of those.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27118&g2_serialNumber=2

 

For the lower holes, I had to insert the drill from between the brackets

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27120&g2_serialNumber=2

 

For the other set of brackets on the rear end (the ones closer to the seat back), I had to remove the seat back panel b/c there wasn't enough room to do my little drill bit trick. But, once the seat back panel is removed, you can just drill the holes normally. (No picture of this)

 

 

My other helper, assisting with control arm installation (and nut/washer thievery, as I found out later)

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27122&g2_serialNumber=2

 

 

Installed front hubs and went ahead and attached the caliper bracket & caliper. A couple of the wheel hub mounting holes in the spindle were a little too narrow right at one end, so I had to touch them up with a 3/8" bit. And in case you're wondering, these are...apparently...6 piston calipers. Wilwood thought it was important that you know that

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27112&g2_serialNumber=2

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Did that come with a hitch welded on or did you add it? Would like to see more of that. That is something I have been thinking about needing.

 

You could have just drilled through both sides of the U channel from one side :) Or maybe I didnt understand what I read....long day.

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Did that come with a hitch welded on or did you add it? Would like to see more of that. That is something I have been thinking about needing.

 

You could have just drilled through both sides of the U channel from one side :) Or maybe I didnt understand what I read....long day.

 

I asked Scott to add the hitch receiver, which he did for a reasonable cost. I can take some more pictures of that tomorrow if you want.

 

If I had a longer 1/2" bit (24" or more), I could have just drilled through both, but b/c of the various frame tubes interfering with things, I couldn't do it with the 6" bit that I had.

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Finished the rear suspension test fit, but I seem to missing a couple of cone washers & nuts, but no biggy. A few of the 1/2" holes in the rear control arms on the passenger side were too narrow, so I had to drill them with a 1/2" bit, which required that I get creative due to space constraints.

 

 

Brit,

 

You're not alone. I remember having to do a bit of 'creative' drilling here and there. One example:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=7644

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I would like to see more. Was that a bought hitch that was welded on, or fabricated from scratch one? Wish I knew that was something I could ask him for. Oh well, good excuse to try out my new welding helmet.

 

Yeah, it was an off-menu option; before I placed my order, as I was looking over other people's builds, I noticed several with hitches and then asked if it could be added.

 

Looks fabricated to me:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27127&g2_serialNumber=2

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27130&g2_serialNumber=2

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A set of adjustable reamers is one of the most useful items for "fettling" these types of cars. It's pretty easy to get them into the tight spots, and they can be very accurate if you go slowly. I've put a lot of miles on mine while working on my Westfield.

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