toedrag Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 (edited) Ran across this implementation just now on ls1tech where a guy welded a bung to his exhaust and uses that as a vacuum source to draw the crankcase vapors out, buuuuut if the gasses are combustible, that seems like an approach that could have surprising results once the exhaust gets good & hot...not sure? (I won't be doing it this way): Edited October 17, 2014 by toedrag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 (edited) Thx, Shane! Great info on the history & evolution of your setup. If I follow your current design, you're not allowing the PCV system to pull a vacuum, which means there is no path for the oil to enter the intake. And when pressure builds in the crankcase, it's drawn up & out of the valve cover hoses due to the pressure differential, and then through the breather on top of the catch can? Brit, With the lifter valley PCV line routed back through the oil / air separator and then to the intake, the ambient lines (valve cover ports) actually have a vacuum (at idle and up to ?? rpm) and now draw air through the filter on top of the small Jaz catch can instead of the throttle body port. However, as stated earlier, NJMP revealed a different animal. During sustained high rpm's, this positive crankcase pressure became so great that crankcase pressure (and, unfortunately, oil vapor) back-flowed through the ambient lines to atmosphere. After two tracks days at NJMP, while the amount of oil vapor that back-flowed through the clean air lines wasn’t enough to migrate past the small inline (now removed) filter, it was enough to completely saturate the filter with oil, thus the reason for the Jaz catch can redo. I'm not opposed to atmospheric venting . . . . Although, upon further consideration, I wonder if the gasses would have any corrosive effects on surrounding material over time? Perhaps since you have the hood vents back there it allows the gasses to escape pretty easily? That's the only thing that might prevent me from doing it your way since I don't have hood vents. Personally, I don't think you'll have any issues with corrosion regarding gases being vented to atmosphere under the hood. Again, my system does have vacuum during normal driving. Here's one example of the miniature catch can I was referring to. It's fully enclosed and then has a tube to connect to a fresh-air/metered inlet. The idea is that b/c this is the "clean" side of the stock PCV system, the oil that is temporarily trapped is also still "clean" and can be allowed to drip back down into the valve cover. The question is whether or not it fits under the hood and if it's big enough . . . I really think that you will find that you are pressed for room between the hood and the filler cap on the valve cover. Another example of this is my filler cap. The factory extension had to be removed (clearance issue) and the stock cap fitted directly to the valve cover. This minor mod required removing a bolt from the coil adjacent to the filler cap and slightly canting it so the filler cap could fit; again, no issues here with a loose coil pack or oil residue. Here's a link to a photo: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gall...2_itemId=26669 The Jaz catch can I have for PCV inlet air is small enough to fit on the fire wall and I have ample enough room to drain the can if needed. To give you and even better idea of the hood-to-engine clearance (or the lack thereof) that I have to work with on my car, notice in the above photo link the LS3 dip stick on my car. You can see in the photo that I had to a) slightly bend the top of the dip stick tube inward (toward the top of the valve cover) and b) modify the yellow dip stick handle to get it to 'fit' under the hood. Again, no issues here with this mod. As for how well the small Jaz catch can will actually work with my current setup, COTA in mid-November will be the test bed for the redo. I'll report back after COTA with the results. Edited October 17, 2014 by xcarguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 Seems like I overlooked a detail in your current setup... I can see from this photo of yours that the two valve cover ports connect to the catch can. Do you currently have the valley cover port connected to the IM or other vacuum source? http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27186&g2_serialNumber=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 . . . Do you currently have the valley cover port connected to the IM or other vacuum source? Brit, The lifter valley port (PCV outlet) is routed through the oil / air seperator and then to the intake port. See the yellow arrow in the photo link. It's an older photo (pre Jaz catch can) but the intake port is still in use on my current setup: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23930 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 Ooooh, I see....I completely missed the fact that you're using BOTH the air oil separator (shiny can on the right) on the Dirty side on the Jaz can (tan w/breather filter) on the clean side. I, for whatever reason, thought you had replaced your original setup with the Jaz can, but I now see you supplemented it. Makes perfect sense! http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27172&g2_serialNumber=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 You got it! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 Made some small progress on the fuel system the last week or so. I didn't like the plumbing routing & fuel filter selection on the shopping list, so I went in a different direction. Refer to this thread, started by user jevs: What are people running for LS motor (V8) fuel filters? As I've now learned, the rule of thumb for a fuel filter setup on a fuel injected engine is a 100 micron pre-pump filter and a 10 micron post-pump filter. However, there are also various resources out there that indicate the post-pump filter should be no larger than 10 micron. That being the case, choosing a fuel filter seems to be a trade off between size, flow rate, pressure drop, and filtering capability. Here are some good articles on fuel filters: Fuel System Filtration Pre-Pump Fuel Filtration Post-Pump Fuel Filtration This being the case, I chose a compact 100 micron fuel filter, mostly for plumbing routing reasons, Aeromotive 12316. Note the differences in filter media between the Summit 40 micron filter (SUM-230105) on the shopping list & the 100 micron Aeromotive: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27763&g2_serialNumber=3 The post-pump filter I chose was a 1 micron (not 10, '1') canister style from Canton Racing, 25-911. It flows a massive 90 gph (more than 2x what the LS3 needs) and as has essentially zero pressure drop. It was a bit cheaper than the I found a good serviceability tip on another forum, which is to install a fuel shut-off valve on the output of the fuel tank to make checking & cleaning the fuel filters & other components a little easier & cleaner. I found a simple ball valve rated for fuel on Aircraft Spruce's site. I know the local HW stores have ball valves for water, oil, and natural gas, but I don't think they are rated for fuel, which isn't to say they will fail miserably - I just prefer to use something listed for the application. I'll come back to the fuel system later this week, hopefully. I've ordered most of the fittings I need, but I need to get them installed before I can order my hoses & hose ends to finish things up. Updates on engine/trans coming shortly :hurray: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 Major milestone achieved!! :hurray::cheers: Couple of notes first: The bellhousing I ended up with is American Powertrain BHCV-11001, which has the following number cast into the Aluminum, Tremec 13-86-212-905. Interestingly, I don't find much when googling that Tremec part number. I've found one similar, which is 13-86-212-005. I'm not sure what the difference is between the -905 and -005. Both the T56 Magnum Close Ratio (TUET11009) & Bellhousing (BHCV-11001) came from American Powertrain, and they went together like butter. For the clutch slave cylinder installation, the Spec instructions called for measuring the distance between the pressure plate fingers & the Throwout Bearing with the spring removed and pressed as far back as it will go. When I did this, the measurement came out in the acceptable range, which meant that no shim was required behind the slave cylinder. And believe me, I quadruple measured. I even went to the trouble of checking lots of different fingers on the pressure plate. Plus, the included shim was 1/8" thick, which would have completely put me out of the acceptable range. This is in contrast to the Brunton build videos, where they indicate that pretty much all the M-Spec T56 & LSx setups require the shim. Time will tell if this was a good decision by me. I should know pretty quickly if I'm unable to change gears. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27785&g2_serialNumber=3 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27787&g2_serialNumber=4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Drivetrain buttoned up & ready for installation: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27789&g2_serialNumber=3 Because I was using a 1-ton hoist, I had to make some compromises. First, I had to move the chassis off my 3' tall build table and onto some jack stands. The second compromise will be evident shortly. On my first attempt at drivetrain install, I tried approaching from the front of the car: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27799&g2_serialNumber=3 Once the engine got down into the, I ran out of room and couldn't move the hoist forward enough to lower the engine onto the mounts. On attempt #2, I turned the drivetrain 90 degrees to the hoist and approached from the driver's side (compromise #2): http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27803&g2_serialNumber=3 This method worked much better. Plus, I was able to bring the boom back 1 notch, to the 1000 lb mark, instead of keeping it on the 500 lb mark, which had been making me nervous since the engine is ~400 lbs and transmission is ~130 lbshttp://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27805&g2_serialNumber=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 At this point, I had to remove the motor mount brackets from the engine in order to position the drivetrain properly. Once I had it positioned, I put the mounts back in. With the drivetrain in place, it was time to move the chassis so that my wife could regain her parking space. The bulk of the weight is held by the chains. The blue tie down straps are there just to keep the front & back level. The only had maybe 10-20 lbs of tension. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27807&g2_serialNumber=3 The chassis resting on jack stands back on its side of the garage: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27797&g2_serialNumber=3 With that completed, I could continue working. First, the flywheel inspection covers (GM 24261714 & 24261712): http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27809&g2_serialNumber=3 Oddly enough, my oil pan had blank holes for the bolt that holds the covers in place. I had to tap it (M6-1.0). http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27811&g2_serialNumber=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) I went ahead and installed the starter while I was at it: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27813&g2_serialNumber=3 Top view showing where the shifter ends up (behind the dash). Brunton has a shifter relocation bracket, and I'm also checking with another company, Sikky Manufacturing. I want to bring the shifter rearward about 5 inches: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27848&g2_serialNumber=3 Edited November 2, 2014 by toedrag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Brit, Looking fantastic! :Chevy_anim: Also, FWIW, although our transmissions are different, classic Stalker shifters were also located under the dash. While this may not be something you want to consider doing, it may be food for thought. I cut off the bottom drop-down portion of my dash and relocated it forward to make additional clearance for the shifter. The first link is from back in 'the day' and shows what I did originally for shifter clearance. The second link is of a more recent photo: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=10340 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=22028 . . . . :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTTTCAR Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Brit Here is another simple way to move the shifter in front of the dash and put it in a more convenient place next to the steering wheel. It allows you to still be able to use the lower dash for instrumentation and switches. In this case I cut the bottom of the dash off and glassed it back on with the bottom tilted slightly out infront of the shifter stub. Gale http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=17720 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thx, Shane & Gale. My fiberglass experience is exactly zero/nil. I'm not sure I want to start learning on the nice shiny dash piece. Maybe if I end up doing fiberglass work on other parts of the body, I might go back & try the dash. Probably not...for the time being, I'm planning on hiring out any fiberglass work. Gale, your approach is pretty close to what Brunton has come up with. How has your shifting been? Any close calls or mis-shifts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Messing with the driveshaft just now and ran into an oddity...It appears that the driveshaft flange has 3 different sets of holes, spaced at various distances from the outer edge, which I suppose is to allow it to fit w/multiple differentials. I was able to get 2 of the 3 bolts in, but the 3rd bolt's head is contacting part of the u-joint that is welded to the mounting flange. The bolt might be a bit too long. I tried inserting the bolt from the other side, and it's too long for that as well. I guess I'll try cutting off about 1/8 to 1/4" off the threads, which still leaves plenty of thread beyond the nylock part of the nut. On the upside, on the driveshaft-to-differential bolts, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the grip length is long enough so that no threads are in the shear plane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Brit Here is another simple way to move the shifter in front of the dash and put it in a more convenient place next to the steering wheel. It allows you to still be able to use the lower dash for instrumentation and switches. In this case I cut the bottom of the dash off and glassed it back on with the bottom tilted slightly out infront of the shifter stub. Gale http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=17720 That looks like a GTM shifter. I have one of those assemblies in the basement . No good for a GTM of course... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTTTCAR Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 jevs n Brit You are right, part of it came out of my GTM when I switched to cable shift. I have used this extension idea twice. Once on 119 above the tunnel and on this car under the tunnel top. Both joints on 11 have a thin but large surface area Teflon bearing to allow smooth shifts with no play in the mechanism. The bolts are tight enough to get the feel i like. The shifter on 119 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=15947 is an aftermarket product and works well but not being made of as substantial materials as 11, makes it less precise. You can't tell from shifting 11 that there is an extension. 3000 miles of spirited driving so far with no problems. Gale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Here's the driveshaft bolt situation I was referring to earlier. As you can see, the 50mm bolt included with the kit contacts the u-joint, and it's also too long to fit through the other side. Had the flange been rotated a few degrees before welding, this bolt probably slides in without issue. The other two bolts had no interference problems. I think it was luck of the draw with how it was welded: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27817&g2_serialNumber=3 I shortened the bolt to 40mm and installed it, and then I realized that I probably don't want different bolt lengths on that rotating assembly; the over-thinker in me considered it might cause vibration and/or unwanted stress due to it being out of balance. Knowing that it's unlikely that I can cut 2 more bolts to the same length as the first, I'll be making a trip to my local bolt supplier to find replacement M12 bolts that are 40mm long, hopefully with a proper grip length. Fingers crossed. I suppose another option would be switching to AN bolts, but an AN7 will be .035" smaller in diameter than the M12, and an AN8 will be .027" larger in diameter than the M12. Neither of those ideas is too appealing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew... Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Toedrag - if you loosen the other bolts enough to create a 10mm gap between the driveshaft and flange you will effectively "shorten" your bolt enough to get it to clear the bearing ear, right? Or am I looking at this wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Toedrag - if you loosen the other bolts enough to create a 10mm gap between the driveshaft and flange you will effectively "shorten" your bolt enough to get it to clear the bearing ear, right? Or am I looking at this wrong? I wish it were that easy The interference is caused by a piece of the u-joint whose position is fixed; even if I completely removed the driveshaft, the bolt would still not fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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