Black Hole

Since I was looking at filters this weekend for my car, I will hop on this thread and ask about the filter for a 2009 Caterham with a 2005 2.0L Duratec from a Focus. My car has a tiny NAPA 1335 (Wix 51335). I see this was the filter for the Europa! The Wix filter noted above is also the standard fitment for the Duratec. Is the mount for the Caterham the same as the Focus? There is a sandwich plate between the filter and the block with the lines to the oil cooler, is this Caterham specific or standard Ford? It appears like I can fit the larger Six filter into the car and I was thinking of ordering the filter noted by Kitcat

Really disappointed I had to pull out of the event but least I get vicarious thrills out of your excellent posts of everyone having a great time. Have a great day and if it is like CT you may just have a quick thunder shower.

Thanks for the info on the brake fluid. While prepping for NJMP next week I found a small weep from my brake caliper. The nut was able to be tightened a bit but if I see more weepage I will take your info into account

Fantastic. I will be happy to drive on down from Hartford and meet you for a CT lobster roll (butter, no mayo for those not attuned to the nuances of New England lobster rolls) along the shore. Plenty of nice roads along the way.

I usually turn left, but I think I can follow these directions

Have you found a video from the Thunderbolt circuit to post for us who have not run it.

Add one more to the list, I plan to attend

White will be an easy decision for us, we are not that creative . Need to review this floor situation, how much could a British car leak

All car funds come out of my "off shore" account that I keep at work. No need to her to worry about what this stuff costs. Fortunately she is also smart enough to not inquire! When the contractor asked us what color we wanted the kitchen painted we were surprised to learn paint comes in colors, we thought every wall was decorator white. My daughter just completed her interior architecture and design degree and has started working at a design firm. I can hire her, I think she owes me She lets me pretend I have a say. Yes, Croc has only spent my budget until the next solar eclipse in 2024, what will i buy after that!!

I could suggest we just eat ramen for the next year, kind of defeats the purpose of the gourmet kitchen but it would be for a good cause. Electric is an option. As you note, I am just looking to bring the temp up, don't need indoor room temps. I am not planning on doing anything before this winter (and it is going down to 27F tonight)

The shipping container pool is awesome. Stack a bunch up next to the pool to build a home. Great summer vacation set up

Future upgrade - or do I put the money towards another vehicle. Decisions, decisions I go more for the Jay Leno murals on the wall. I have the BMW art car poster. and a nice french grand prix poster (Reims 1938) that was in the previous kitchen. Not even going there... I would go for that. Or maybe turn one of my own photos into a mural.. Ooh, dangerous avenue as I did not put that in my planning. Already have the 180 bottle wine fridge int he basement, but a beer fridge is a seriously good idea. I can do with a bit less (not normally something i usually say ) My buddy has the California Air tools, Very quiet and on my list. http://www.californiaairtools.com/ultra-quiet-series-of-air-compressors/2-0-hp-air-compressors/cat-15020c/ or https://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/en-us/air-compressor/products/reciprocating-air-compressors/garage-mate.html If anyone has any experience That sent me down the rabbit hole :jester: And I have been on the SBD website. I think tires and more driving experience will be a better investment. Do you want me to keep going? :jester: Sure, gotta dream big. Plus you have identified things I didn't know I even needed.

Go polished concrete flooring. Everything mops up and they have some stains that make it a more practical color. Hindsight in my Garage Mahal says thats what I should have done. Yes, this is on my list but is a lower priority. I suspect I should do it while the concrete is still and smooth but I have other priorities. Automatic doors only. Get the new internet type with an app so you can open the door for miscreants, troublemakers, mechanics, so-called friends, and possibly the wife while you sit in a bar in Tokyo snuffling down a beer on yet another work trip. Done. Got the Lift Master with internet connection and back up battery (already got to use it when we lost power last week). Very nice to be able to open/close the garage at will. Put a Big Ass over your workbench https://www.bigassfans.com/lights/the-garage-light/ Fantastic work light I did look at that but I did show some restraint. Got some 3200 lumen LED with 4000K color temperature. Highly recommended and only $68 each, but you get great light when you put in seven of them. Home depot sells Lithonia brand LED. They are only about $35 each but reduce the light output to 2400 lumens. Does your fusebox allow enough amps for this? Ask me how I know..... As for the electric car - buy her a Tesla. They are really expensive but you know you will be in the good books for at least a month. She will be wowed by the iPad in the front console. No way she will be using her cell phone and driving anymore. Right now the circuit is 40 amp. I think it would be adequate for most items and will charge a car fairly quickly. The GTI gets 35 mpg, only reason to get a Tesla is to try ludicrous mode. Are you connecting the garage to the house or the garage to the mainline? Either way I recommend just sucking it up and going for it. Don't be a pussy! $6000 to hook up :cuss:. I have the line for a grill, but the flow requirements mean they have to do a new line inside the house. Future upgrade, the garage has the internal set up to put it in. The alternative is to model the new winter wear collection here: https://www.llbean.com I was thinking this: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2173 and the batteries work with the tools I like Gladiator - I use it in my home garage to keep stuff off the floor at king high tides when it floods (no I am not kidding - it is a foot above normal high tide on the Hudson River). This is what I have. I love reconfiguring it as things I am storing change over time. That is what I was leaning towards, Their hooks looked a little better than the rubbermaid.

Nope, had ANA in from Japan so I have not been home much in the past two days, and after going out I was overstuffed and over drunk to get on the forum. Now I will work my way down. Of course cash flow is seriously depleted. I have a car addiction but turns out my wife can spend as much on an oven as I can on a car.

No room for three car wide based on our property line so I had to go double deep and get a four car garage The rear of the garage is high and I have a dormer on the left side so I can raise a car without worry about the ceiling height.My buddy will sell me his Bend Pak lift after he sells his 68 Alfa spider. All new floor and garage door. I added a stainless steel utility sink for clean up.Lighting is great (and highly recommended). I now have four LED lights in the front two bays and seven LED lights in the rear two bays. What a pleasure as the old garage had one bulb in the middle. Wired up for 240V if the wife wants an electric car (that's what she thinks, I think it is for a welder). This garage is insulated (it was not before) and I have added piping and wiring in the walls to install a gas heater. Turns out it is a significant cost to get a gas line of appropriate size installed so that is on hold. My first question is I need a "system" for the tools etc. I am looking at the gladiator or the rubbermaid rail system. Anyone have experience with them and can recommend either system.

OK, i'll take the bait Here is the garage now:

Very true. Saturday may be a possibility, it will be up in the 40s. The road through Colrain in NW MA into VT is very nice.

Problem fixed :driving: I removed the switch and verified that it was operating with an open loop with the plunger depressed in the brake off position and continuity when the plunger was extended. I fiddled with the adjustment and it is now operating properly. After 3500 miles I am not sure what suddenly changed but it must have been on the edge and moved enough to not allow the circuit to complete. The switch it is very close to the brake pivot so it moves far less than the distance your foot moves so it must be fairly sensitive to position. Hopefully a few more weeks that I can drive the car before the snow comes to New England.

Yes, and she has a remarkable way around electronics and not in a good way. And expensive to keep, I could have had an awesome car for what we just spent on a new kitchen, but I did get a four car (soon to be five with a lift) garage out of the deal:hurray:

Thanks, we will see if I get to it during the week, a hand may be useful. I did have a nice drive and found a couple of nice roads, but also ended up on a couple of dirt roads, but they weren't too bad and I wasn't following you!

Thanks, once i determine my switch is the culprit that is my plan, good to know if can be opened and serviced.

OK, now I am flummoxed. I do have 12+V on one side of the switch when the car is running. But when I checked resistance across the switch with the car running it went to OL and shows a short with the car off??? No difference when my wife pressed the brake pedal.

Thanks. The nut seemed tight so that leads me to think the switch is still in the same place where it was working before. I suspect a bad switch (or bad / dirty contacts) so I would like to figure out what is the correct resistance with the brakes off and on before I start messing with that.I need to check if there is 12V on one side of the switch too.

Yesterday on my drive on what will likely be one of the last beautiful days in CT a driver pulled up beside me to inform me my brake lights were not working :cuss:. Needless to say driving a 7 without brake lights is very concerning! All my tail lights work and in testing I was able to get the brake lights to come on very briefly while actuating the brake pedal, though they will not light now. My first suspect is the switch. A ground issue would be the second area I would look at. My car is a 2009 Caterham SV so I have a small plate covering the pedal box, that I removed to provide access to the top of the pedals. First a dumb question; Does the car have to be running for the brake lights to activate, key in the accessory position or are they always live? How does the switch operate - should it be closed or open when the brakes are not depressed. The switch is showing closed (short) at both the non actuated position and when the brakes are depressed (why are the brakes lights not always on???). So is the switch bad or could the adjustment be off enough to not allow the switch to change from closed to open?

Yes, I waited for it each week when I was looking for a car. I ended up buying a car from George Alderman that was not listed but the resource was valuable (and appreciated http://www.usa7s.net/vb/webkit-fake-url://165d77a3-cf14-4442-ab51-ee7de9fcec41/imagegif)and led me to a couple of cars. Acording to his website, Mid-Atlantic still has the other car I looked at, a beautiful 40th anniversary S3 with a Sigma engine. http://www.midatlanticcaterham.com/inventor.htm