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Black Hole

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Everything posted by Black Hole

  1. Thank you again for a fantastic event. The effort Mike @Croc and Tom @yellowss7 put into preparation and management during the event really shows. Their focus on ensuring the event is fun is what makes it so special. I have no trailer stories going home, I got to enjoy my 7 for a beautiful 5.5 hr cruise home yesterday. On the advice of Jeff @BlueBDA I took a route through Princeton and Mahwah. Completely avoids any built up areas in NJ/NYC so I had a really enjoyable drive
  2. Progress today that significantly ups my chances for NJMP. After moving coils around the car seemed to just run very poorly (and rich) at idle and ran slightly better with at higher RPM. I got new spark plugs because it was clear it was running rich but the results remained similar. A then while staring off into space I am looking at my car and voila - there is a hose under the inlet not going anywhere! Plug it in and the car now runs smoothly. Picture below shows the offending hose hooked back up from the PCV system. Just need to get a clamp to secure it (don't know if there was a clamp that popped off or if there was never one there) I don't think anyone said look for a vacuum leak Now I just need to sort out the throttle. Today actuating it cannot make it stick open but I need to be confident on that before I track the car. Not sure why it stuck and why it is not sticking. Pretty simple system and the cable seems to actuate very smoothly. If anything, it is in the physical pedal. And I also need to ensure this was the cause of the rapid RPM increases that occured. So the sequence of events: RPM rises uncontrollably (the first time is when i started the car when I was not even in it) I go for a drive and I have a second RPM rise that corrects itself after shutdown and a couple of restarts and the car runs fine Drive the car 2 mi to breakfast - no issues, car runs great Returning home RPM increases. Shut car down, restart the car and it runs very poorly. I assume the hose popped off at this time.
  3. Thanks. I realized that after I sent the post 😀. And easy to do.
  4. Thanks. I have not given up yet. But my time is limited and I need to make the engine run and more importantly make sure the throttle does not stick!
  5. Thank you all for the advice. Rosh Hashanah put a kink in my ability to work on the car. I plan to do troubleshooting tomorrow if work will cooperate. Hopefully none of my customers blow up one of their engines tonight making me busy tomorrow. I have not yet cancelled out of NJMP. Can I do that up to 48 hrs in advance without penalty (can’t seem to find the cancellation policy). On the other hand I saw there was a limit to the number who can register so I don’t want to block someone from registering if we are at the limit. I have never troubleshot a coil on plug ignition system. How do you verify if an individual coil is bad? For the TPS that woul just be a linear potentiometer in the 0-5 V range? For the CPS where is typically located on a 2.0 duratec and how is it tested?
  6. After doing all my prep for the USA7s event at NJMP I now have a major engine issue. As you can see and hear from the video the engine is not idling well and my number 4 cylinder is cold. I suspect valve damage. I am double annoyed, I will likely have to pass on NJMP because I don't have time to straighten this out, and I may have been able to prevent it The background: After working on the car, I went to start it up and the revs shot up so I turned off the car. I was not inside the car so I could not have been touching the gas pedal. I then operated the throttle at the engine and there were no anomalies noted. Based on it happening with no apparent actuation of the throttle I suspected some sort of sensor issue. I had done no work in the area of the throttle or the pedals - brake flush, oil change, check nuts and bolts for tightness, put on a Newton gas cap and some cleaning. I then went on a drive and the revs shot up again. I only noted 5-6000 on the tach from a quick glance. I could not tell if the throttle was stuck but I shut the car down as fast as I could. Upon restart it was running as in the video and I drove the 1/2 mile home. I checked the throttle and it works fine at the engine but when I actuated the pedal about 1 in 10 times it stuck. Ugh. I suspect I over revved the engine damaging a valve. I will need a compression test, any other areas I should be checking? Caterham 7 misfire (1).mov
  7. Thanks. I will see if I can get the Braille I ordered to work.
  8. That looks nice. So far a home depot and a local hardware store have not realized much in the way of AL stock. I did pick up some angle Al that I may use Thank you
  9. I did a search and did not find any nearby, thank you for the suggestion
  10. I was thinking exactly that solution. Yesterday I went to Home Depot but their metal selection was pitiful (the whole store seemed bare!). I purchased a piece of 1”x1” angle AL and 1/4” some threaded rod. I did not event try to look for bolts that long but they look cleaner and may take another look.
  11. I think I will order up the Braille tie down, I think I can make it work
  12. Just found the dimensions on the Braille hold down and it is 5.5" minimum so it is also too large
  13. My car has a pretty hokey battery hold down and as I was going through the car today I found it broken. I was looking for something a little better than just replacing the strip of aluminum that was across the top of the batter. The battery is about 3" wide and the battery box is 5"x7" so there was a bent piece of aluminum as a filler. There are thin aluminum "risers" on each side that are welded to the tray. I looked at Summit, Pegasus and Amazon and just found the usual J bolts, some with a cross bar that was likely way to big. The smallest one I saw was adjustable down to 5" which is much wider than the battery. There was one for a Braille battery that looks like it may work but I have know idea of the actual size. I was wondering if anyone knew of a better solution.
  14. Here is some learning from my experience registering a 2009 Caterham in CT in 2016. My car was bought from a Caterham dealer who was able to title the car in DE as a 2009 ASVE. He put a Delaware temporary plate on it and that allowed me to drive it to Wethersfield for a "courtesy inspection" that will be required. Some items I would note from my experience (and from the CT DMV: https://portal.ct.gov/DMV/Inspections/Inspections/Composite-Vehicles and a copy of the CT composite rules attached): - you will need to put the windshield on, I don't think CT will register without a windshield and wipers (see the ruled attached) - I talked with the inspectors before I bought a car. They say they will instantly fail for harnesses so you will need road legal seatbelts. My car had three point in it as built but you may not be able to easily retrofit them to your car. In which case you may need to get a set of harnesses that are FMVSS compliant (they would have a red push button vs a cam lock) - A catalyst will be required - They made me wrap the exhaust system all the way to over the catalyst with header wrap even though I had the builder put a cover over the entire header system - Back up lights are required (I was failed because I did not have them). I have a bracket that attached a light to the frame under the body. You are welcome to use it. - They did not require or make any mention on the bumpers (I was concerned as they are a requirement in the rules) I was able to have my car registered as a 1967 Lotus 7 replica. Essentially no property tax when you do that. Note they will not issue a title as they don't issue them for cars over a certain age. In the end I made two trips to Wethersfield to get in registered. CT Composite Vehicle Rules rev 4:18.pdf
  15. The next drive is Sunday 8 August going from Lime Rock down to a vehicle storage place in Canaan called Wheels of Time. Not familiar with it but should be a nice drive. I will PM you the contact info
  16. Not quite a 7, but it uses a lot of 7 parts. A Lotus 11 replica made with Caterham front and rear suspension, brakes and wiring. Lotus twin cam engine: https://vintageracecarsales.com/portfolio/lotus-eleven-replica/
  17. This appears to be a car built by George Alderman of Mid Atlantic Caterham. I test drove this car in 2016 when it was still in his shop and I bought the other car he had, a SV with a Duratec. The great news is George builds a great car, mine has been very reliable and you can have confidence that is was professionally built. The pics are from July 2016 when the car was still "new" (my car is a 2009 kit built in 2013).
  18. My car has the mirrors mounted to the doors. I added this solution and I highly recommend it. Available from https://www.mirrorsforsevens.com/index.htm. It just clips on to the windshield frame and it does not even interfere with the top.
  19. Congrats and good luck. I lived in Ann Arbor for six years and two degrees many moons ago. Great town but the roads are boring until you go well north. But they did build Mcity to test "interconnected vehicles". Looks like a perfect track for the 7 and right in town Since they have an Automotive Engineering department check around as we had a lot of car nuts and associated activities when I was there.
  20. This would be a test of my driving endurance in the 7. I only have to drive 4 hrs to NJMP (in the pouring rain last year) but 12.5 hrs to CMS may require a tow
  21. Just over 90 minutes from me so I am interested. Thanks
  22. Here is the solution for the bottom fasteners on my car. Washers welded to the dzus fasteners make it really easy to unlatch.
  23. Are you coming to the Litchfield drive tomorrow? You can look at the installation in my car. It uses a oil filter bypass adapter and an oil cooler in front of the radiator.
  24. I followed up with the person who runs a Cayman prepped by Speedsport Tuning in Danbury. He highly recommends them so they could be a viable solution for you.
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