dhubbard422

This car feels quick, but, in general... 7's are so raw and light, that I expect it'd feel quick even with much less power. Lightness, especially in cars, brings joy, IMO.

Dyno sheet:

I sent you a PM. My contact info should be in your inbox. Thanks, Don

Hello, Yes, my 7 is available. And my cell phone number is in this thread. Please text first and mention that you are interested in the 7 or just call and leave a voice message and I'll get back to you. If you prefer, send me a PM (private message) via this forum by clicking on my user name at the top of this thread. Thanks, Don call or text: (five 1 two) 5seven6-82nine5

Price lowered to $XXX for a winter sale.

2004 Superformance S1 - Not For Sale Apologies, for editing this post to essentially the point of deletion, but I need to go another route. Thanks for your interest.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've used the acetate trick to clean fork seals on a trials motorcycle. I'll give the acetate/tool and lots of lubrication a try. I was talking with a friend over the weekend, he suggested that the seal install tools were primarily for a line mechanic on "book time", i.e. not the best way to install a new main seal. I will pull the pan, patiently install the main seal and then reinstall the pan with a new gasket. The previous installer (which I assume was the original engine builder...) must have been in a hurry when he slapped the main seal on... Thanks again for the suggestions.

The intake scoop as shown by the OP harkens back decades. This scoop reminds me of the standard intake on a '77 March Formula Atlantic as shown here. If you are not familiar with Atlantics, at that time they were powered by a 1.6L TwinCam Ford Cosworth BDA, i.e. similar to what many of us have in our modern 7 interpretations. The scoop would be fairly easy to fabricate from fiberglass. March made theirs as two halves (sliced as top & bottom halves) and then simply seamed them together with a strip of "fiberglass tape"; you can see the seam in the pic linked above. The scoop attached to an aluminum plate with (4) dzus fasteners, 2 each on the top and bottom halves. The aluminum plate was screwed to the weber carbs. The foam sock was also simply made. A sheet of nearly 1" thick foam was cut such that when rolled it would form a cone with a glued together seam; during a season of racing and frequent cleanings the glue would fail and the sock replaced with new. It's important to vent the airbox... March fiberglassed a section of aluminum tubing into the back of the airbox, maybe an inch in diameter, through which high pressure air could escape. The filter sock was simply tie wrapped to this tube; it was fun getting large hands back into the back of the scoop to attach the sock. I'm a little fuzzy about the details of how the sock was attached to the front of the airbox... if I remember correctly, the filter sock was simply pinched between the airbox and an inner ring that formed to the contour of the air box inlet; the inner ring was attached to the air box with a couple of small screws. Anyway, it would be a doable DIY project if one was sufficiently motivated. The aluminum backing plate could be easily formed over a wood buck. The airbox could be shaped from rigid foam from which one could make a 2 piece fiberglass mold... I've thought that one would look good on my Superformance S1... and given the extreme heat under the bonnet, it'd probably be a nice performance improvement as a result of cooler air to the intake, but I have a motivation problem.

Hi All, I have a Superformance S1 (#53) with a 2.0 Zetec. The rear main seal was leaking, it was not properly installed... and it has a "corner" that was folded over. http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l328/dhubbard422/RearMainSeal_zpscf75f3eb.jpg I'd rather not repeat this with a new seal install and I was curious if anyone here has replaced this seal? If yes, would you mind sharing your technique? Online, one can find different manufacturers of a seal install tool to aid in replacement. Did you recommend the use of this tool? Is this tool primarily for an install in which one does not remove the pan and the upper gasket? Or is it needed if one does remove the pan? Naively, it looks to me that the best way to avoid pulling the lump again to replace a leaking seal... is to remove the pan, then install the rear main seal and then reinstall the pan with a new gasket. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Don

A friend of mine did "this" to his Talon... Yes, he is a bit nuts. :smash: http://gearboxmagazine.com/rays-twincharged-talon/ If you look at the pic, you'll notice that the turbo feeds the supercharger, i.e. in a crude sense, the supercharger simply multiplies what ever the turbocharger gives it. Which means giant boost at insanely low RPMs. This little motor is really powerful and it makes big power everywhere in the RPM range. However, it is a lot of plumbing... it might be hard to fit all of that plumbing in a traditional 7, but, Ray believes it just might work. :jester: Traditionally, big boost numbers from a turbo require time (i.e. RPMs) to spool up while superchargers can make nice, if modest, boost right off the bottom. If you're driving a street-able turbo and has little to no lag, it generally makes fairly small boost pressures so that it can spin up quickly. However, I'm not an expert and I wouldn't be surprised if there are exceptions to that rule of thumb...

When I think of the best way to combine 2 Hayabusas... http://www.radicalperformanceengines.com/Powertec-Macroblock-v8/ One of these in a 7 should be sweet (very light and very powerful). It has been done. Probably many times, here's a pic of one example: http://thekneeslider.com/hayabusa-v8-for-the-dp1/

Nice trailer!

I keep looking at the 7712H (tilt) from Aluma. It's just a bit bigger and the tilt option might be the easy load option. Electric brakes are also possible on this model.

Oh my... this topic can go on and on. I've been thinking about a small open aluminum tilt bed trailer for my 7, primarily because I could tow it with just about anything and the gas mileage would be about as good as it gets. I've also considered solutions that would let me convert the open trailer to a tiny enclosed trailer, one in which the top hugs the 7. Alternatively, it can be very nice to have a trailer in which one can work in. Full stand up height, a work bench, a rack for tires, cabinet(s) for tools... This is deluxe. Of course, one can gold plate it with a lounge, bathroom, etc... You'll also pay in terms of gas mileage and towability. Pulling a tall trailer is like pulling a drag chute down the highway and your gas mileage will plummet, 10 - 11 mpg may be optimistic if you're in a hurry. Years and years ago I towed formula cars in a 40' 5th wheel trailer behind a 1 ton dually, clocking several hundred thousand miles, and the 5th wheel was really, really nice - you hardly know it;s back there. I really don't like pulling a heavy tongue trailer; it can be really important to load the trailer properly in order to keep it from wagging your tow vehicle. The security issue is tricky. I've been lucky with both open and enclosed setups, but I've had a friend that has had the entire rig stolen. Stuff stays neat and clean with an enclosed trailer, but unless the size is generous they are harder to load. Trade-offs. It's all about trade-offs. But you already know that.

BigDog, I've always assumed that the US trailer tow ratings on mid-size cars/wagons/crossovers is mostly a combination of marketing and lawyers... but, is only surprising that someone at a car company admitted it, even if "privately". FWIW, a VW salesman told me this weekend that VW has decided to bring the diesel Tiguan to the US, maybe as an early release 2015. But this may not help me as I may have to replace a car in the very near future... My new vehicle goals are similar to BigDogs (good economy and light towing) and we test drove a TDi Sportwagon this past weekend. Although the DSG trans in the Sportwagon does concern me for towing. My wife can drive a manual, but she doesn't like to and I've finally decided that both of our daily drivers should be automatics so that she can drive either of them. I expect that most Europeans would simply get the manual trans if they want to tow with their mid-siize diesel wagon... So, ER, I'm curious if you'd recommend towing a 7 with a new (or new-ish) Jetta Sportwagon TDi WITH DSG... Oh, and I'd equip the Sportwagon with an electric brake controller and the trailer with electric brakes. I think the trailer empty weight is 700 - 800 pounds, so maybe 2,200 pounds with the 7. What do you think? Is the DSG bullet proof or is it a weak link? FWIW, a a used BMW 328i Wagon is also on our short list. The 10 mpg fuel economy decrease is almost offset by the increase cost of diesel fuel. Don