AndyB
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Everything posted by AndyB
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I need the same stuff as a replacement for my early Caterham. I have some pond liner material left over, it's rubber made by Pirelli and appears to be a heavy inner tube rubber. The only challenge I see is how to cut a strip about 5/8" wide and keep both cuts straight and parallel.
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This one built by one of our Lotus Club members Jan Szott.
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Of all my woodworking tools I find my bandsaw kinda passive it's the spinning pointy sharp things that I fear. Like my 12" compound mitre saw that once shot a 3" X1" X1" piece of lumber along the fence into the end of my waiting thumb, pushing the nail back and out through the flesh at the 1st knuckle. Looking at the Xray the Doc said "Normally we'd call this a compound fracture but in your case 'bone mush' better describes it." Lots of blood too for a small wound. I still shiver every time I use that machine.
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Not so bad after all, $833 inc. taxes for a pair in Thornhill. http://www.sportscarboutique.com/products/sr-p2-4-asm
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Ouch! I never thought about the cost of these things, $900 Canadian + shipping and maybe duties if I'm unlucky.
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Hey Twobone what make are your harness/seat belts, is the top mount a wrap around and did you buy them in Canada?
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Van Holst Automotive in Kitchener are doing the re & re and Twin City is the machine shop. I found them through a friend of a friend who just had his Elan motor rebuilt by them. I came to the conclusion there was no inexpensive way to rebuild a twin cam, there may be a cheap method but that way could result in doing it twice.
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I dropped off the car yesterday and by late afternoon they had confirmed my findings. Low compression on all cyls, exhaust valves leaking on 2 & 3. So today they will pull the engine and strip it. Hopefully the Dave Bean catalogue arrives soon and we can put together our shopping list. I have a feeling this is going to hurt my wallet :grouphug:
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When I first got my Seven I bought a pair of racing shoes from a local Porsche dealer. I wore them twice and was not prepared to change every time I arrived somewhere. A change of shoes was necessitated do to the fact treading on a match stick felt like treading on a 2x4, very painful. I now wear a pair of very slim and very white Pumas which now sport an aluminum racing stripe down the outer side from rubbing on the foot well. But they are very comfy and allow for all the deft footwork demanded by a Seven.
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No polished aluminum version either.
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My exhaust manifold is a four branch, each one separate. So what's the big deal? They will only fit back through the hole in the body and attach to the engine in a particular order. I was warned ahead of time so I took photos, marked each pipe 1 thru 4 and made note of how they came off the engine and out the hole. 2 weeks later when I put it back together I figured how hard can that be, 30 frustrating minutes later I was referring to my notes and photos.
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That's OK we'll just increase the peasants taxes. Oh no that won't work almost 13% are unemployed!
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Yes thanks, I've had some work done by them in the past, trouble is their main business is leasing Formula Fords so they are busy all summer due to racing and then they start the job of rebuilding so it's not always easy to get in there.
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My twin cam needs a rebuild, I realize these motors are expensive to rebuild and I don't mind shelling out the money but how can you guarantee you are getting a quality job? Still looking and asking questions, wish me luck.
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Petition to reduce the 25 year import wait time to 15 years
AndyB replied to seschm1234's topic in General Sevens Discussion
You'll get your car imported quicker but you will pay a 20% premium for the car, the gas, the insurance and in most areas you can only drive it for 6 months of the year -
Coming home from a Lotus Club meet last night I noticed my ignition light starting to come on. From 1000 rpm to about 3500 rpm all was well but in the higher rev ranges it would it would glow to being fully lit but the battery remained fully charged despite the use of head lights all the way home. There's always something.
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No mine is held in with a piece of bent spring steel and after a further check they all have a little play so I'm back to step one
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OK I looked at the side and that's almost out of sight underneath with my setup, it will be a so n so to get to. I might have to use a bent screw driver. But if it solves my problem it will be worth it. Thanks again
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No grub screws on this carb, mine are 40 DCOE 18 if that makes a difference. I'll keep Googling.
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Finally have time to try and sort my problem, first thing I noticed was the venturi mentioned in this article is loose. That's the tube inside the metal ring. If I stick my finger in there I detect slight movement whereas the other three are firm, no movement. What I can't figure is what fastens this part? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Great news, I hope you have the same results as I did.
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Is that what they call the Auxiliary Venturi?
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Here's the company that coated mine and the product they used. Also the silver exterior coating appears to be wearing well especially considering the blasting it receives from front wheel debris. http://www.fireballcoatings.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=8&Itemid=19
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Great job but just as a side note about 5 years ago I had my complete exhaust system ceramic coated. The guy mentioned he could also coat the inside of the headers thereby preventing the heat from escaping. I had a little skepticism but gave him the go ahead. Before removing the headers and wrap I took some temp readings and the again after coating with no wrap, the temps were within 10º C in either direction. 5 years later and this time my coolant overflow tank has not melted. My feet however still complain.
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Makes about as much sense as a guy or gal driving their Cessna NY to LA along the highway after having removed the wings and installing a large radiator. Now both vehicles are useless at either form of travel………...