toedrag

Are the cables under the car?

You know...my welding list keeps getting longer. It might be time to learn a new skill. I'll think about it and will research some.

Woke up pretty early this morning and decided to head right to the garage. I think I was excited to start working on the mock-up for my parking brake system. Let me caveat this with the following: never have I designed, installed, repaired, or really even looked into parking brake systems before this project. If you fine users see any mistakes or risks, please let me know. I've been mentally wrestling with the parking brake solution for a long time. Brunton doesn't include provisions or specific instructions for a parking brake system. I know it's possible to use a hydraulic parking brake (i.e. line lock); however, TX registration requirements don't allow that on street cars, and I wouldn't be comfortable doing it that way either. I like the idea of a separate parking brake system. Part of the challenge was also the calipers. All indications on the Wilwood spot caliper is that it doesn't have enough holding power. I ended up finding calipers from a company named IPSCO, as noted below. They are pretty pricey, unfortunately, but I bought 'em. They should arrive next week. Plus, I've been sweating figuring out how to make custom brackets for the calipers to attach them to the car's spindle. Hopefully, once the calipers arrive, the design of the bracket will become apparent. I don't like flying blind, but there's not much I can do about it right now. Here are the components I'm using: Lever: Lokar XEHB-7000F Cables: Lokar EC-80FUTB Calipers: IPS080-R, IPS080-L Caliper bracket: IPS080-BK (It may turn out that these aren't needed) Cable bracket at caliper: IPSCO is making a custom bracket with 7/16-20 thread to mate with the fitting on the sheath of the Lokar cable. The focus of this morning's activities was the placement of the lever. I've considered lots of difference placements, and here is where it ended up: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27911&g2_serialNumber=4 So, why not put it on the tunnel like a normal person? Obviously, it's to allow room for cupholders....I kid.....sort of. In all seriousness, the space where it currently resides is pretty much wasted space otherwise. Given that the tunnel houses lots of other stuff (brake line, fuel line, electrical, driveshaft) and given that keeping the tunnel top flat is more comfortable for resting one's arm, the spot on the seat back panel between the seats seemed like a pretty great idea to me. My seats arrive early next week, and if my measurements are correct, there will be plenty of room to use either hand to engage & disengage the lever. We'll find out. Regarding the cables, the Lokar system is kind of cool, in my opinion. It's basically like the brakes on a bicycle. The inner steel wire slides easily inside the outer sheath, even around bends. There is no limit to the amount of bends you can make, just don't make such sharp turns that the steel cable can't move. One end of the steel cable is connected to the clevis at the parking brake lever, and the other end is connected to the caliper. The outer sheath is held stationary by various brackets, and the steel cable slides back & forth as the parking brake is engaged & disengaged. You cut both the sheath & steel cable to size to fit the application. I'll have a welder add some flat steel straps where you see the scrap aluminum holding the lever. There's also no interference from the fuel pressure regulator, which means I get to retain what I've done on the fuel system thus far. Some other views: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27914&g2_serialNumber=4 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27918&g2_serialNumber=3

Plumbing milestone!! Cooling System plumbing & PCV system plumbing are complete, minus some hose clamps. Note that my coolant system plumbing is different from others because I think I might have the first XL chassis with a Mark Scott radiator (not too sure though) First, the giant AN-16 hoses for coolant flow between the engine & Mark Scott radiator. A ratcheting PCV cutter worked great to cut the Aeroquip Startlite hose. Assembling those AN-16 hose ends was a workout. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27902&g2_serialNumber=2 Steam vent hoses complete: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27904&g2_serialNumber=2 PCV/Dual Catch Can hoses complete: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27906&g2_serialNumber=2 Coolant overflow tank hose complete: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27908&g2_serialNumber=2

Received my Alternator connector & pigtail today; I had found it on ebay under Item#151303054390. I wasn't completely sure it was the correct one, but it fits perfectly. In case that item number isn't valid in the future, try searching for 'nippondenso harness' (assuming you have the nippondenso style alternator from a '92 Geo Prizm as per the shopping list, of course) http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqYOKpsE3tk9Qzu2BN9L5wTu5Q~~_12.JPG

The IM fitting is 1/2" (13.2mm as measured), so it may work on that end. But, the booster's fitting is only 3/8" (10mm as measured)...if you could find a silicone reducing elbow, that could work. (The Dorman 46017 is a reducing elbow).

I have 12" of 1/2" ID heater/coolant hose from Autozone, and some of that will be trimmed once I add the check valve.

Interesting. My booster is from a 1995 Miata EDIT: I think I like having a separate check valve. The Mazda hose isn't likely to be long enough, so you'll still need another barb union and more hose.

Definitely no check valve on the LS3 intake manifold (just checked using a few breaths in & out => no restrictions). The booster...not sure, but I doubt it has one built in.

Maybe call 'em up and add it to your order? Looks like shipping from them is $5.99 for it, so I'm only out $1 vs the shipped ebay price Yeah, the Dorman 46017 is just a rubber elbow, no integrated valve.

I went ahead and ordered a 12mm check valve from UPR Products off ebay (p/n H5032-28). I'll just replace my 1/2" barbed union with this little guy. It also prompted me to look into a check valve on the fuel line, and thankfully, the Walbro GSL392 fuel pump has an integrated check valve in the outlet. The UPR check valve: http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/m/mGmkxVRySXQ9iziHOyRqtuQ/140.jpg

I suppose I should also add a check valve. Yes/No?

I did. I figured it's just to have that good 'ol manual brakes feel, but I didn't bother to ask.

Forgot to include this earlier today: Regarding the vacuum line from the brake booster to the intake manifold: The IM has a 1/2" barb, and the booster has a 3/8" barb. I was poking around Autozone and found their in-stock rubber PCV Elbows. Dorman 46017 seems to be 3/8" on one end and a little bigger than 1/2" on the other. Even though it's a little big on the 1/2" side, it still seals fine with the clamp. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27889&g2_serialNumber=2 After adding the 1/2" to 1/2" barb & some 1/2" hose, it's done: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27896&g2_serialNumber=2

What about one or two 20 lb (or less) pneumatic hood struts?

Finally got around to fitting a rotor & brake pads and found that I needed to use a file to round off the edge of the front mounting ears on the caliper brackets in order to allow the pads to slide fully into the caliper. The one on the right has been adjusted, and the one on the left still needs correcting with the affected areas circled in Red. I notified Brunton about this so that they can make adjustments on future pieces. It's worth mentioning that my car has the 6-piston front calipers, and this issue may or may not exist on the cars that have the 4-piston front calipers since those use a different bracket. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27900&g2_serialNumber=2 Started assembling the cooling system hoses. I'm using Aeroquip Startlite hose & Race Flux fittings. The Race Flux fittings are cheaper than Aeroquip and also carry a 1 yr warranty just like Aeroquip fittings. Once I finish the AN16 hoses (waiting on the hose to show up), I'll do the steam vent hoses, and lastly, the PCV/catch can hoses. I also did a test-fit of the hood with my dual catch can setup in place, and I'm happy to say that there is plenty of clearance everywhere. With the catch can on the left, there is also still plenty of clearance to the AN elbow on the water pump to unscrew the bottom of the can to empty it. I may make a little heat shield for the can on the left since it's just a few inches from the header. The one on the right has more like 6 inches of clearance to the header. The catch cans are Elite Engineering's gen 1 can (b/c it's slightly smaller than their gen 2 can, and I didn't want to risk them not fitting). The catch can brackets are the "hockey stick" bracket from Elite Engineering. I bought them from JDP Motorsports for $150 ea, and they are listed as being used for a 2005-2007 LS2 Corvette. Also, the way my hose routing will work, I needed 4 right angle barb fittings, and since each catch can kit only comes with 1 right angle and 1 straight fitting, I bought 2 right angle fittings locally and tossed the straight oneshttp://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27892&g2_serialNumber=3 Mounted the Moroso coolant overflow tank using some 3/8" thick nylon spacers that I found locally. I couldn't figure out how to mount the thing without using the spacers because the mounting bracket would either contact the steel rocker bracket or the rocker. The way I have it, there is about 3/16" of clearance to everything. There is also plenty of room for the rocker's nut & bolt, contrary to what the angle of the picture would have you believe. Don't ask me why Moroso includes a teeny little ball valve on this tank (that's the fuzzy silver & red thing in the picture); I don't believe it gets connected to anything. The hole just below it is the vent hole, and Moroso put it there; I didn't drill it. Interestingly, this tank appears to be entirely molded plastic or other composite. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27901&g2_serialNumber=2 Next on the list is to finish the cooling & pcv hoses, then move to seats, parking brake, and fuel hoses.

Flying home today, thank goodness. Been buying parts all week: catch cans, alternator, hoses & hose ends for fueling & cooling, rotors, misc cooling fittings, driveshaft loops, and might finish up my ordering frenzy with the parking brake & calipers. I've been trying to wait patiently for Brunton to make progress on a driveshaft brake, but I don't want to wait any longer. Also...Correction on the harness & ECU: I'm told that's the GMPP ECU kit (19258270), which [hopefully] should play nicely with the GMPP crate motor I plan to buy. I had *assumed* it was the GMPP harness & ECU (or that's what I remembered from a previous conversation with Brunton), but that's not what arrived in my kit. The harness is from Current Performance Wiring, and the ECU is an E38 (12633238). I discovered this when deciding how to stimulate the T56 Magnum's reverse lockout function. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Current Performance harness has both Reverse Lockout & Reverse Lamp pigtails. And thx to jevs for telling me to check the harness :cheers:

I had found an old thread on ls1tech here: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1525162-tremec-magnum-t-56-shifter-relocation-assembly.html, then I emailed Sikky and they confirmed that they still sell them. They don't have them on the website due to all the different T56 configurations; they don't want people to order the wrong part. Note that the currently shipping unit has been completely revised from the previous version, which had issues with leaks and broken bolts.

This week, I won't be able to do any work on the car due to some work travel - boooo. I was able to get a couple smaller items done yesterday, however. Because the Mark Scott radiator has no place for a cap, the Brunton shopping list calls for a separate tank with cap fitting, Howe Racing 3424. I still haven't figured out how Brunton has mounted the tank in their sample pictures, but it looks like they welded a bracket on the bottom. My welder who did my water pump was uncomfortable with the idea of welding a bracket; he thought there was too high a risk of fatigue cracking. So, I looked at another approach: Also on the shopping list is a coolant overflow tank, Moroso 63657, and a 3" strap clamp mount, Moroso 63401. The mount also happens to fit the surge tank pretty well, so that's what I started with. I put an M10-1.5 bolt in the bottom hole which attaches directly to the cylinder head. It actually holds the bracket pretty well, but the top is still a little floppy. For the top hole of the mount, I grabbed some scrap aluminum and formed it to shape, using a nearby bolt as the mounting point. I'll eventually get some new aluminum flat bar and will make a finished bracket. I was pretty proud of myself for this one since it took all of 30 minutes to put together. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27873&g2_serialNumber=2 Back to the Fuel System...For my fuel level sender, I chose a solid state capacitive sensor from a company called Centroid, centroidproducts dot com. Speedhut is one of their distributors and the sensor carries the Speedhut p/n G-SNDR-12. In the configuration that Speedhut carries, it's a standard 33/240 ohms like many other fuel level senders. The idea is you apply 12V & Ground to the sender, and it spits back a resistance value that you connect to your gauge. It comes in a few different lengths that you can select on the Speedhut site. The unit self-calibrates on the first full fill-up. It uses a standard SAE bolt pattern like other senders and comes with a cork gasket, about 1/8" thick. As it turns out, Centroid can accommodate some customizations, which in my case, I shipped the unit back to Centroid, they reprogrammed it so that it provides a voltage level instead of resistance value, which simplifies how I will connect the sender to my dash setup (not using standard gauges) If you need to cut the unit to length, it's easy to do, as long as you do it before the unit has auto-calibrated. I cut off about 1/4" from the bottom. The unit has two aluminum rods. The outer rod can be cut with a tubing cutter. The inner rod with a hacksaw or snips; it doesn't matter if the inner rod gets pinched: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27757&g2_serialNumber=3 Drilling holes with the shop-vac sucking up the shavings. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27755&g2_serialNumber=4 Installed. Unseen is the gasket goo on both sides of the cork gasket and inside the mounting holes of the unit. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27877&g2_serialNumber=3

Love that idea! Nicely done! :cheers:

I keep forgetting about rivet nuts, thx for the reminder. What material do you like to use? Are the steel inserts to difficult to use? What's your tool of choice for getting them seated? On the Sikky shifter, I mentioned it to Scott a couple of weeks ago, but he's also working on his own version. I didn't want to wait for it or be a guinea pig

Finally was able to install my Canton Racing post-pump/pre-regulator fuel filter. I can't tell you how many hours I agonized over its placement. Where it ended up seemed to be the best compromise between access/serviceability, hose routing, and avoidance of any rotating components. It's such a relief to be done with fuel system component placement since it enables me to pick my hose end angles & hose lengths. At the lower right, you can see the pump's outlet peeking out from under the CV joint boot. The object at the top left is the regulator & bracket. The filter clamp mount is attached to the frame with rubber washers. Both bolts are 1/4"; the top one goes all the way through the frame with a nut attached, and the bottom one is tapped 1/4-fine since a through-hole wasn't possible due to the control arm bracket on the opposite side: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27869&g2_serialNumber=5 View from the cockpit looking backwards at the same assembly: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27871&g2_serialNumber=3

Received my new shifter this week. It's from Sikky Manufacturing, and even though it's not listed on their website, they have them in stock & ready to ship. You just send them an email and ask for the T56 Magnum shifter. It moves the shifter position backwards exactly 4". With a custom quote, they can potentially move it further back, but you'd pay a handsome price for that. It's a little taller than I prefer, but beggars can't be choosers. Plus, if it really bothers me later on, I might take it to a shop to have it shortened. It's threaded M10-1.25 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27853&g2_serialNumber=4 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27855&g2_serialNumber=3 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27865&g2_serialNumber=1

Oh, and I can now sleep soundly with my driveshaft bolts trimmed to size http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27833&g2_serialNumber=3

Finally got my water pump welded earlier this week, and I also took my radiator to the welder to add a mounting tab on the bottom since my radiator requires that the bottom tips outward a bit. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27827&g2_serialNumber=4 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27829&g2_serialNumber=3 Here's the little right angle bracket (well, more like 80 degrees) I made for the bottom radiator mount, installed with some rubber washers: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27843&g2_serialNumber=3