vstryker
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Location
Orange County
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Interests
Motorsports
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Occupation
Big Oil
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Se7en
S3 CSR260
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Sold, thanks for looking
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I found this as I was cleaning up my storage unit, a new spare S3 Caterham wide track steering rack. I sold my S3 a few weeks ago so no longer needed. It is approximately 101cm (~39.75") end to end. Standard ratio when I tested, about 1.9 turns lock to lock. Located in Orange county, asking $400 plus shipping.
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Thanks for all the interests, and it is now SOLD @sltous
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Just to confirm, I got under the car and verified that it has a ZF LSD 3.62 rear end
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Located in Southern California, with current registration until 2022
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With a toddler and a newborn on the way, it is with a heavy heart that I must sell my beloved 7. It started life with a Zetec SVT engine then I swapped it out in 2016 with a full on CSR260 Cosworth motor including the bespoke CSR dry sump system. It is quite a unique combo as there are not many S3 with this setup. This car is very light with an incredible power to weight ratio, it tipped the scales at 1180 pounds wet. It was built to be a quick and reliable car for canyon carving and track. It addresses both fuel and oil starvation with the fuel swirl pot and dry sump system to be as reliable as possible. Suspension is fully adjustable with 3 way coilovers (low, high, rebound) along with adjustable front and rear sway bars. No need to ever smog as it is exempt with clean California title. The telepathic handling as well as the screaming ITB’s are toxic, nothing drives like a 7… nothing. Kinks have been worked out, it is turn key and ready to go. Below are the specs and options: 2005 Caterham 7 Superlight S3 California clean title in hand, Smog exempt no need for smog checks 16,500 miles on chassis, black with white stripes (white sticker stripes can easily be removed) CSR260 2.3L Cosworth engine with CSR 2 stage dry sump system (Bellhousing, swirl oil tower and all), fully balanced, blueprinted. Cosworth everything, CNC machined head, forged rods, forged 12:1 pistons, oversized valves, upgraded valve springs & cams, 7 pound CrMo flywheel, roller barrels. Rebuilt back in 2016, has around 1500 miles since. Please click on link for full build 2016 CSR swap to S3 MBE9A4 fully tunable and open ECU from SBD Motorsports, with USB cable, and base maps 6 speed close ratio transmission, refreshed in 2016 build Front wide track suspension LSD, De Dion rear suspension Nitron 3 way adjustable with progressive springs, valved for Caterham 7’s from Simon at Meteor Motorsports 4 piston AP racing upgraded brakes and vented discs with 13” wheels Tillet fixed back bucket seats, with adjustable rails and 6 point harnesses Quick release momo steering wheel Aero screen with CF mirrors Lots of Carbon Fiber: front cycle fenders, rear wheel arches, instrument dash, nose cone, side sills Fuel swirl pot Upgraded Radtec radiator and fan FIA rollbar, original ARCH chassis 1180 pounds wet with 1/3 tank, corner weighted Spare parts included: Caterham half doors Glass windscreen frame Windshield wipers Softbits Tonneau cover Raceco Titanium muffler (9 pounds, repackable) Asking $52,000 For any questions or more pictures, please email me at vstryker@yahoo.com, or call me directly at (714) 7zero2-4four64, thanks for looking!
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vstryker started following AK/CO Duratec Seven Breaks Cover , Ford/Caterham Duratec 2.0L 220 hp, Dry Sump, Roller Barrel, Motor For Sale , Croc’s new CSR Superlight and 3 others
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Thanks for the info. I did search but found there are 2 types of gears available and wanted to clarify exactly what this had. Also, what is the length of the input shaft on this as there is a short and long version? Did the 6 speed that was swapped onto the csr had a spacer on the bellhousing? If you could please measure the total length of input shaft, where the spline starts, and total length of spline then i would definitely know if it fits. TIA
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Will this bolt onto s3 currently running the 6 speed without any modifications? Also, is this the helical or straight cut gears?
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When i pulled the yoke from my 6 speed, i had to move the rear diff back a few inches in addition to moving the engine forward a few inches while tilted to clear everything. The yoke is about 5-6" long iirc. Remember to drain the transmission as you'll get some fluid coming out. Other than that, pretty straight forward coming off.
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I have a pair of very good working condition Caterham black 7" headlights for sale. Comes with everything in the picture including bulbs. SOLD!
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I have a set of very good condition AVON CR500 175/55/13 for the fronts. These tires came off of my spare set of wheels. No cracks or punctures, with about 6/32" tread depth remaining so lots of life left. How about $80 for the set picked up in SoCal. I can ship to you at your cost, just give me your zip code and I'll check. Thanks for looking, cheers.
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Fitting lowered headlight brackets to Caterham SV (link included)
vstryker replied to benhughlett's topic in General Tech
I used the same left and right brackets as you listed from Caterham parts on my 2005 S3 imperial chassis. It mounts directly on top of the front upper mount like TurboWood mentioned and is about half way inside /outside the nosecone. I remember drilling a very small hole in the front upper mount for the wires to pass thru and into the new brackets. Dropped the headlights a very cool 5-6". -
Yes, you can take out the speedo drive gear and get the bung from caterham to plug it up like i did. To take out the speedo drive gear is a bit of a pain though, first you remove the retaining clip, then you remove the larger sized bung on the opposite side of the tranny and finally popping it out the gear. Clearance might be an issue but I had my tranny out during the rebuild so it was easy. I also siliconed the new bung when i tapped it in and not a drop of oil since. Good luck!
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I thought the Raceline would work on individual coils as I've in it on Chris's car here http://californiacaterhamclub.com/chat/attachment.php?attachmentid=1183&d=1362719374 I would get the raceline as it looks much better and costs about the same with the current exchange rates
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Kevin, I took the original cap, shaved down the top part then epoxied a thin round aluminum plate with an allen head button. I use the allen head to easily twist open and close the filler cap. You can probably even use a counter sunk allen head too. It gave me that extra 0.5" to clear the bonnet. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/vstryker/20160721_15061301_zpsy6cyhz3q.jpg