Scott_

I'm assembling parts for an engine swap later this year and am in need of a duratec exhaust. The engine is a 2.0L near R500 spec. Thanks, Scott

I was in touch with him this week as well asking of any fitment issues I'd need to watch out for with a tracsport in a Sierra diff housing. He was very helpful.

Nice! I like color!

For my Caterham 7, a 1999 model, I went with Hagerty and agreed upon value of 40k with cherished salvage and 1k deductibles and it came in at $620.

Had I not found an S3 with a lowered floor it would have had to been the SV for me. As it is, the S3 is another reason I have not to gain any more weight.

http://www.dvapower.co.uk/

I'm glad that worked out for you! On the throttle body did you opt for the jenvey ITB's? I'd be curious to hear bout your upgrades. If it's serviceable and you are interested in selling the head off the old engine shoot me a pm. Scott

You can switch to kph and the 200 makes perfect sense,. As far as the 200 scale in mph, I think it's hilarious and love the joke. Scott

I'm glad to hear it held up well. I couldn’t be more please with these gauges. Scott

No, sadly that is the cost per unit. However, you get rpm and speedo in both so if you can stand the style mismatch between your original gauge and the Motogadget gauge it would be fine... that was my original plan.... but I couldn't stand the mismatch.. Each instrument comes with a speed switch and magnets. One can be saved as a spare. On the speedometer the top digital display would be rpm and on the tach the top digital display would be speed. The lower display on each can show volts, time, oil pressure, and so on as you chose. My lower display is currently set up with volts on the tach and time on the speedo. You can set warning lights, for example if the voltage falls below 11.9, or whatever. As you can see from my videos, I do not have the tach signal going to the speedometer yet or the speed signal going to the tach. That's next on my list of things to do as well as wiring the high beam and the other warning lights to show on one of the instruments. Here are more details of the installation.... The reed speedo sensor is a simple magnet/proximity switch that sends a ground signal to the unit on each rotation of the wheel. A tiny rare earth magnet is glued to the rim. I made a mount for the switch out of aluminum and a clamp I found on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MLKKW3L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 and used the fender stay as the mounting point. I measured my front wheel and worked out the diameter in mm's and input that into the gauge and got it very close to my GPS speed on the first try. On the tach, at least on my '99 tach plug, pin #3 is the tach signal wire and pin #6 is switched 12v and pin #5 is ground. Those plus constant 12v from the fuse box are the main taps one needs to make the motogadget tach work and can also go to the speedo for tach functionality. The ground signal from the speed/reed switch provides the speed signal to each instrument. I like that I could set the odometer to match the car's mileage. I haven't set up the shift light or gear indicator or most of the other functions yet. I bought a Motogadget breakout box and apart from speed and tach, that is what the other sensors would go into and then to the instrument through the orange LIN BUS wire. Rather than cutting wires in the dash I simply tapped the original wiring where needed and ran the constant 12v from the fuse box with a fuse tap. I added an 80mm o-ring between the bezel and the dash on each gauge to give the installation some depth to help match the larger bezels of the original instruments. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VFK535G?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Each gauge has three 3mm holes on the back so I cut 3mm threaded rod to length and used my 3d printed mounts and thumb nuts to secure each instrument. This is the threaded rod: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D22QGKHN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 I can share the 3d mounts if anyone wants the STL files. 3mm thumb nuts here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCYK3B98/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0DCYK3B98&pd_rd_w=Un3M9&content-id=amzn1.sym.8c2f9165-8e93-42a1-8313-73d3809141a2&pf_rd_p=8c2f9165-8e93-42a1-8313-73d3809141a2&pf_rd_r=1QJ58083RXS84TH8TRMZ&pd_rd_wg=cAblT&pd_rd_r=cba31dc4-164b-43ee-9c55-3416a40837e5&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw I used the hole for the odometer reset for the switch to control the functions on the instruments. Each instrument comes with a small switch you can install. I decided to reduce that to one switch to control both. The hole had to be enlarged slightly. This is the switch I settled on: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HEKULI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Clicking left controls the tach and clicking right controls the speedometer. The wiring for either gauge and the breakout box is below.

Finally have had time after the speedo and tach install to get out and enjoy the car. I love this thing.

I ended up going for Motogadget multifunction gauges for the tach and speedo. They are 80mm and a bit spendy, but I was aware of these products from my motorcycle hobby. I 3d printed mounts for them and wiring was fairly straightforward. So far, apart from tach and speedo, I have only wired in the turn signal blinker. I do like the voltmeter showing. The Speedometer is triggered by a sensor i ran to the front right wheel.

Did you ever figure out the process? Scott

I think it looks great! Scott

See this: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/277218-titanium-silver-colour-code/#comment-2629463 Scott

Good advice! I did autocross years ago and think I'll start out with some local events, that's probably all the speed I need at this point in my life! Scott

Dave's site about his upgrade options is very interesting and he clearly knows these engines. Having him rebuild one for shipping over with a few upgrades and the E6 ecu would be tempting and I think you could trust him to evaluate any engine he send over to you. Off topic, but have you considered a swap to a different engine, like a duratec? Scott

I looked a bit and found this: Importation of Vehicles Over 21 Years Old: EPA has long interpreted the equivalence requirement to mean that the engine must be identical to the engine that was originally installed. Such an engine is one that is the same model and configuration as the original engine. Importers wishing to utilize this provision are strongly encouraged to contact EPA's Imports Hotline prior to importation of such vehicles to ensure that the equivalency requirements are met. The Imports Hotline can be reached by email at imports@epa.gov or by calling 734-214-4100. Importers are encouraged to read the detailed information on the importation of nonconforming vehicles and engines, which can be found in the Procedures for Importing Vehicles and Engines into the United States (pdf) (3.2 MB, EPA-420-B-10-027, July 2010).

Sorry, I don't have a good answer on importing, but I'll follow this closely since I also have a VVC car. If you don't mind telling what happened to your engine and would it might not be easier and cheaper just to buy parts to have it fixed? There are many videos and articles online about these engines and all kind of work on them. Scott

That was an interesting article. Scott

Much appreciated!

Those are great points. I looked over the build sheet and it really doesn't go into detail about the sources of the parts. When you say steering bracket are you referring to the steering rack or something else? Scott

I ended up going with Hagerty with an agreed upon value for my 1999 Caterham. The application and underwriting process was painless.

LOL, I just spent thirty minutes figuring out oil filters for this motor. I hear you.

Thanks for the tip on the book and about plugging the hole. I'll be tinkering this weekend and will p0st some photos of the speedo. Scott