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  1. For CT I think it depends on how it is registered. The PO of my first purchase of my car bought it from out of state and it was registered as a 1967 Lotus. All he had to do was have a vin check performed at a garage. When I repurchased it from Michigan I didn’t even have to do that. Probably because I had owned it previously.
  2. Thanks to all for the help. @JohnCh for the win! We went back through all of the connections, shook all of the wires while it was running, including the ECU and nothing. Went to remove the CPS and the screw was kind of loose. Tightened it back up and no change. Finally decided to check the gap on the sensor and while I couldn’t find a definitive gap measurement what I found seemed excessive. It had two washers on it, I removed one and it was like magic. Ran it up well past 4500 rpms with no issues. Went on a test run that turned into the first blat of the year, ran g
  3. Thanks again John. I’ll run through these and the other suggestions. It seems that Mr. Murphy is renting a room here this year. Bill
  4. 924s, thanks I'll look at that. John, everything else seemed to stay steady but I was focused on gauges, I'll run it again and watch the lights. Thanks, Bill
  5. ashyers, Thanks, I'll add that to the list to check. As soon as it cuts out I let off the throttle and didn't observe what happened afterward. Bill
  6. Thanks sltous, I think that would be jumping in at the deep end for me. No O scope and certainly no idea how to use it.
  7. I plan on going back over all the connections and grounds when I go poking at the crankshaft position sensor. Seems like I’ve done it a dozen times already but I’m clearly missing something.
  8. Thanks sltous, I’ll check that out.
  9. I finally got my clutch installed and the car back on the road. The clutch has a much different feel now than it ever had. I guess all new components from the master down will do that. Now I experiencing something that wasn’t happening before. The car starts fine, normally on second try sometimes third, and settles into a nice idle. The throttle is properly responsive and on the road everything seems to be in order, until I hit 4500 rpms, then it cuts out. Every time, regardless of load. I had it running in the garage and slowly brought it up to speed while watching the gauges, nothing notable
  10. I wanted to close this out before I started another thread. First off thanks for the help. I had trouble getting information from AP. They directed me to a web site to find what I needed and they said they didn’t sell AP products. Right. Chris T from Sevens and Elans, who originally sold the car and tuned the motor helped me out with the parts and some very helpful hints. It took months to get it all straightened out, I was busy and had limited time and had to put it on hold for the winter. I got it all back together about a month ago and when we turned the key
  11. My 2002 SV has carpet on the tunnel, the cover is a press fit. It still requires some wrestling between the shifter, brake lever and seats.
  12. I am definitely interested in this, motivation to get my 7 back together for spring.
  13. This...and what Vovchandr said is the best advice. Drive defensively. I've been riding motorcycles for nearly 40 years and I've always applied the lessons learned from that to driving my small cars, TR6, Spitfire, Z3, M Roadster and now my Caterham(twice). Always assume that nobody else sees you and they are about to do the worst thing possible. Not out of fear, because you would never drive again, but out of survival. I've had brightly colored bikes and dark colored bikes and I'm not sure it makes a difference but others mileage probably varies. Lights on all the time does, highbeams durin
  14. Thanks Andy, This will be helpful as I gather information. Bill
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