Chopd65

I have one of these mounted on a touring motorcycle, the holder itself disconnects easily from the mount so it is hardly noticeable when removed. The mount is fairly generic and possibly adaptable to your needs. https://kruzerkaddy.com/stainless-kan-do-kaddy-multi-mount/

I've had a Bendpak 9000lbs 2 post symmetrical lift for about 15 years. I built my garage to accommodate it and had the concrete tested for depth and strength before ordering. I installed it with the help of a friend which took about 8 hours over two days. I bought the two post because I do much of my own maintenance on my "specialty" cars and help some friends as well. I've had everything from my 7 and my 71 Challenger to a 3/4 ton Ram extended cab on it without any trouble. I've done everything from engine swaps to Jeep lifts and am quite happy with the purchase. That being said, the majority of the time it is used for storage, mostly for the Challenger, something a 4 post would be better suited for. I think that the clutch replacement surgery that I performed on the 7 last year would not have been as easy if I had the 4 post. It can be a pain lining up the arms for the 7 since it is sooo low and at least on my Caterham I need wood blocks in the rear to keep from crushing the flanges for the floor. I would buy the same lift again.

Bendpak 9000lbs symmetrical arms. I've had it for well over a decade and it's never given me a problem. I've used it for everything from the Cat to a Ram 2500. I keep my Challenger on it for the winters. Best garage purchase I've ever made, glad to get off of the floor. Things to consider/research. The two post lifts need to be anchored to the floor of the garage, they specify a depth and hardness for the concrete. These are safety issues and certainly worth verifying before making a purchase.

As someone who has resurrected a few vehicles that had been sitting outside, unattended for long periods of time, I find this project particularly exciting. Please keep the updates coming. Good luck!

For CT I think it depends on how it is registered. The PO of my first purchase of my car bought it from out of state and it was registered as a 1967 Lotus. All he had to do was have a vin check performed at a garage. When I repurchased it from Michigan I didn’t even have to do that. Probably because I had owned it previously.

Thanks to all for the help. @JohnCh for the win! We went back through all of the connections, shook all of the wires while it was running, including the ECU and nothing. Went to remove the CPS and the screw was kind of loose. Tightened it back up and no change. Finally decided to check the gap on the sensor and while I couldn’t find a definitive gap measurement what I found seemed excessive. It had two washers on it, I removed one and it was like magic. Ran it up well past 4500 rpms with no issues. Went on a test run that turned into the first blat of the year, ran great the whole time. Stoked to be on the road. Thanks again John.

Thanks again John. I’ll run through these and the other suggestions. It seems that Mr. Murphy is renting a room here this year. Bill

924s, thanks I'll look at that. John, everything else seemed to stay steady but I was focused on gauges, I'll run it again and watch the lights. Thanks, Bill

ashyers, Thanks, I'll add that to the list to check. As soon as it cuts out I let off the throttle and didn't observe what happened afterward. Bill

Thanks sltous, I think that would be jumping in at the deep end for me. No O scope and certainly no idea how to use it.

I plan on going back over all the connections and grounds when I go poking at the crankshaft position sensor. Seems like I’ve done it a dozen times already but I’m clearly missing something.

Thanks sltous, I’ll check that out.

I finally got my clutch installed and the car back on the road. The clutch has a much different feel now than it ever had. I guess all new components from the master down will do that. Now I experiencing something that wasn’t happening before. The car starts fine, normally on second try sometimes third, and settles into a nice idle. The throttle is properly responsive and on the road everything seems to be in order, until I hit 4500 rpms, then it cuts out. Every time, regardless of load. I had it running in the garage and slowly brought it up to speed while watching the gauges, nothing notable was happening when it cut out. Fuel was constant at mid 50 psi, no jumps in any other gauges. Oil pressure was steady, I think around 70 psi. I’ve gone over looking for something missing and can’t find anything. This is a 2002 SV, Zetec. Any help would be appreciated.

I wanted to close this out before I started another thread. First off thanks for the help. I had trouble getting information from AP. They directed me to a web site to find what I needed and they said they didn’t sell AP products. Right. Chris T from Sevens and Elans, who originally sold the car and tuned the motor helped me out with the parts and some very helpful hints. It took months to get it all straightened out, I was busy and had limited time and had to put it on hold for the winter. I got it all back together about a month ago and when we turned the key on the whine of the fuel pump was immediately followed by a splashing sound. The rear fuel line had reached it time limit and split wide open. I ordered a replacement line and fuel filter and waited on the boat to arrive. I installed those and she fired right up and I went out for a ride to top off with fresh gas and get some miles. I had my wife follow me as a chase vehicle. No issues but when we got back she told me I had no brake lights. After much trouble shooting and cursing I came to find out that despite a previous owner removing the backup(reversing) light the wires still needed to be connected to the transmission or they would blow the brake light fuse. Is this Lucas? Unfortunately, the brass pins that the wires plug into had broken off when we pulled the engine/transmission. I had no idea that needed to come off first. Another boat trip for a small part from Britain. I now have break lights, yeah. I now have a new problem that I start a new thread for. For those that responded…thanks.

My 2002 SV has carpet on the tunnel, the cover is a press fit. It still requires some wrestling between the shifter, brake lever and seats.