R1 Seven

Hard to believe it has been 10 years already. I was there with my recently completed Locost. A fun weekend for sure!

I'm not sure, honestly. I thought that I ordered them all. Is that one a different part number? Maybe I overlooked it.

Aaron, That is a bummer. For reference, I logged around 13 track weekends and a few autocross events on the car on that clutch and Barnett clutch kit. Add however much you have been driving it, and that is how long it lasted.

Aaron, What oil are you currently running in the R1? When I had the car, the clutch would slip when I tried non-motorcycle oils in it. I went with Yamalube exclusively, and it worked flawlessly from then on. Hope this helps,

The car is sold. Thank you for your interest. I think it should be going to a good home.

***Sale Pending***

Price reduced to $15,000

There have been several folks that have said they wanted it over the years...hopefully one of them still does.

Thanks. I don't *want* to sell it, but we can't hold on to everything, it is not getting much use, and future projects beckon. Croc - There were some variants after this model year engine that made 180hp from the factory.

For sale is a 2007 Locost 7 powered by a Yamaha R1 Motorcycle engine. The car is based on a CMC frame that has been extensively modified for both safety and performance. The chassis has the dimensions of the original “book” Locost design. Below is a list of features on the car: 2003 R1 Engine (160HP Fuel Injection) 6-speed Sequential Gearbox (Bike Transmission) Toyota 10-Bolt Rear End with TRD Limited Slip (3.31:1 Gear) GAZ Coilovers and Eibach Springs Wilwood Calipers Front and Rear Twin Master Cylinders w/Cockpit Bias Adjuster Full Roll Cage Kirkey Race Seats and 5-Point Harnesses JAZ 8 gallon Custom Fuel Cell Two Sets of Wheels http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx109/RexRacer19/FrontQuarter.jpg This car was built by had over the course of several years. Both the front and rear suspensions were redesigned and built to work with the components used. The entire build was documented from start to finish here: http://www.underwood-racing.com/project_seven.htm The “Construction” tab has all the build details. You can also read about the development of the car and see videos of it in action. The car was built to be a track/autocross car specifically, and is not street legal. It could be made that way with some additional lighting and wiring. It has been a great track car, and has competed in several time trial events in the Southeast, as well as participating in the very first Grassroots Motorsports Ultimate Track Car Challenge. It even earned the SPU class championship with the Tarheel Sports Car Club in 2008. It is fast, easy to drive, easy to maintain, and very easy on consumable parts. http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx109/RexRacer19/RearQuarter.jpg http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx109/RexRacer19/Engine.jpg A full gallery documenting the current condition of the car can be found here: http://s746.photobucket.com/albums/xx109/RexRacer19/R1%20Locost%20For%20Sale/ ***Sold*** For additional information please email to supratt(at)cox(dot)net. Serious inquiries only, please. Thanks for looking. -Jeff Underwood

My friends George and Stefan will be there racing their Series 1 this weekend. It is the red #37. Stop by and talk with them about their cars...nice folks.

Hey Bruce, The car is looking great! I really like the new wheels.

That is the same setup I am running and it has been great so far. Just be sure to run motorcycle specific oil, or you may have some clutch slippage under hard acceleration.

I don't know that it is needed with a BEC. My car does not seem to drag the rear tires while going down through the gears under heavy braking. I have no idea as to whether they are more or less durable than a standard clutch. That is probably more important in a BEC.

SCCA will let you have a helmet that is up to 10 years old. My SA2000 is still current until next year. Most clubs went to the SA requrement a few years back. You may look into renting a helmet if you are not doing many events and want to wait until next year to get a fresh sticker (SA2010). I think that OG racing has a rental program. Last I heard of it, you get to apply the rental $ to a future purchase with them. HTH

Yikes! The Yamalube is less than $5/qt. I change it after every weekend, but every other would not be bad either.

As long as the oils are specifically made for bike engines, you should be OK with just about anyting in the recommended range. I tried some Rotella oil in my R1 Powered track car at first and got some slipping despite having a heavy Barnett coil spring clutch kit. I now run Yamalube only and have no problems.

Hey Todd! Good to see you here. Thinking about getting the Lotus going again? To the orignal Poster. You could race your car with SCCA as well. It would fit into SPU (Super Production Under 2 liters) along with my car. However, it is not a very big class and you won't have tons of competition. That would probably hold true with NASA as well. I decided to build a Honda Civic for SCCA Improved Touring this year and plan to race next year.

Yeah...thereabouts. It could be a couple of other things. Check your toe. I run mine at zero for a reference. Also it could be buffeting at that speed. These cars are so dirty in the air. That took some getting used to at speed. I just hold the wheel straight and things work out.

Hey Andrew! Hope things are going well with you. One correction to your post above. My engine is a 2003 and is fuel injected...I don't want anything to do with carbs. Yes, the RX-7 rear just did not have a low enough ratio avail. 3.90 was the best I could do. The Toyota has a 3.42 and is much better suited to the tracks that I run at. (VIR, Summit, CMP, Rockingham) The car tops out at about 135mph which is just about right. Bill, I got your email the other day...I do not have Ron's email address. Sorry about that.

Cool pics. That red Series 1 Seven belongs to a friend of mine in DE.

Hey Bill, Drop me an email sometime if you have any questions. supratt (at) cox (dot) net I am located in Roanoke, VA. Regards,

Mazda, If you are doing track days only, then there is not really an expiration date for the belts. They just need to be in good condition. Some clubs may require current date belts, but not many that I know of. If you plan on doing Time Trials, then most likely the expiration date will apply depending on the club you run with. If you are Road Racing with SCCA, NASA, etc. then you will definately need to have belts with current dates on them. SFI only certified belts are good for 2 years and FIA certified belts are good for 5 years. HTH

Looking good man! Congrats on a good showing at the UTCC.

Some good friends of mine will be racing there. One of the cars they run is a red Series 1 Seven. It should be there running.