sf4018

Have you checked for any nicks or scratches around the top edges of the tank where the cap screws down to?

What are the hot/cold pressures for the R7? I’ve never run them before. The spec sheet has these pressures but they seem high.

I would guess it's a mechanical issue in the tach. No idea if it's serviceable.

The front suspension is easy access, just jack up one side, make the adjustment and repeat for the other side. The rear suspension can only be accessed from underneath. I don't have the trailer space to put in a hydraulic lift so putting it on jack stands is the only option, which is time consuming, especially if I have to repeat a few times. Maybe at the end of the day but then I'm eating into beer time

Type Manufacturer Model Comp. Front Wheel Size Front Part # Rear Wheel Size Rear Part Number DOT Avon ZZR A64 13x6 185/55R13 13x8 215/55R13 ZZR DOT Hoosier R7 R7 13x6 P185/60ZR13 13x8 P225/45ZR13 Slick Hoosier F2000 R35B 13x6 20.5x7.0R13 13x8 22.5x8.0R13 Some notes on suspension... The f/r ride height is currently tuned for the ZZRs. If I put on the F2000 I'll have to raise the front by 9mm to maintain the rake, which would not be too hard to do at the track. For the R7s though it's a real problem, I'd have to lower the front by 30mm, I'm not even sure that's possible at this point I haven't tried, but that's a huge change. Changing the rear ride height at the track would be a major pain. I already have the tires and wheels for the R7 so I'm committed for now to running them, but a better combination will be 13x6 fronts (same R7 tire) but the taller wheel size on the rear (15x8). This combo will minimize suspension setup change to the ZZR. I had a short look around to see if there are wheel sizes of the same style for 13x6 and 15x8 that would fit but I couldn't find any. I'll dig deeper later this year.

Fully stocked for the year Used Avon ZZR A64, Hoosier W2, Hoosier R7, F2000 slicks.

Time is a great healer.

Ok thanks guys. I see the warning light now, just wanted to make sure there wasn’t an issue with the brake light. Strange that it’s not on the wiring diagram.

I may (or may not) have an issue with the handbrake wiring. The wiring diagram on the assembly guide version 2015c on page 218 doesn’t even seem to show any handbrake wiring on the chassis wiring diagram but there are 2 wires connecting to a switch that is actuated when the handbrake is pulled up. What’s the handbrake switch supposed to do? Should the brake lights come on when the handbrake is up? Any info appreciated!

@SK400The chassis harness has these 2 connectors for the reverse switch which used to connect to the GB on the RHS... Assuming BY10/G9 is in fact the reverse signal and not power wire up BY10/G9 to these (direction is not important). The 12V comes from G73 for the reverse light. You'll have to snip off the weird connectors for GN137/G73 and put on some Deutsch or whatever. Steve from SBD will probably know about the ECU pin function. No idea for the rest. Is this the Caterham kit 6 SPEED SEQUENTIAL GEARBOX KIT - Caterham Parts?

What ECU do you have? For a MBE9A4 ECU, pin 16 is an output from the ECU, pins 19 and 27 are programmable inputs to the ECU (shift up/down?). Guessing G9/BY10 is the reverse switch, like MV8 says put it in reverse and see what happens to the ohms across those wires. That would leave getting power from the left connector I suppose. No idea what the 5 wires are for other than power.

That’s terrible! https://caterhamparts.co.uk/calipers-pads-discs/7662-1-brake-pad-rear-standard-material-de-dion-cars.html CP3915-42-DS25HP

Agreed, I’m looking at that for the rears. From my personal experience on the A7/R7 choice track temperature is also a big factor. I have not run on Hoosiers yet in the 7, but in another race car which weighs 2850’ if the air temp is above ~60F and sunny R7s are the way to go. I would imagine for 7s it’s a higher temperature, maybe someone with experience in Hoosiers would have some insight.

A7 isn't available for the sizes unfortunately or wasn't last time I checked.

I encountered the same stuff during a fuel cell installation project a few years ago. It's crazy that the pump control module is basically guessing the fuel demand. With your new ITB the "guess" is no doubt going to be wrong, especially if you have the green injectors. The Pump On command wire GY from the ECU has to be a pulse to work, you cant just leave it on to run the pump, so I ended up removing the pump control module, though It's not as safe. Also the fuel pump really drains the battery quickly when it's on full time, so watch out for that. I made a thread on at the time, it has some diagrams and videos with and without the pump control module, you've figured most everything out already but maybe there will be something in there that is useful...