ukchris

2013 Caterham Roadsport SV, 1.6l Sigma with Jenvey ITBs & California SB100. https://timemachinesmotorsports.com/2013-caterham-roadsport-sv/

Thanks, good to know they are around, will watch for replied and/or try them again.

I have been trying to inquire about some parts over the last week or two, left phone messages and tried email but no joy, does anyone know if there is an issue?

PM sent.

I may have a need to sell mine very soon, 2013 Caterham SV, 1.6 Sigma, ITB, LSD etc located in New Hampshire.

I don’t disagree but don’t tell everyone until after I get my SV listed! lol

Figured I should pop the hood on…!

Life has a way of getting in the way of fun which has led me to consider selling my much loved Caterham, while this is the third 7 I have owned I simply do not have the time to enjoy it and it’s time to consider finding it a new home. The car is the larger SV chassis which from owning other 7’s I can say is a huge boon, whether you’re on the tall or wide side (or even not) it just feels so much more comfortable. The car was imported as a kit in 2012 and built by the original owner in California, it was registered in California as a smog-empty SPCNS and still has the SB100 sticker, I have been told these stay with the car but would urge you to confirm if that is relevant to you. Mileage is around 12,000. The care is currently registered in New Hampshire where it is registered as an emissions exempt 2013 Caterham. The engine is a 1.6 Sigma/Zetec SE ti-VCT that had 30,000 miles on it at the time of installation, it had Jenvey Individual Throttle Bodies and OMEX 600 engine management. Add to the mix a Caterham lightened flywheel, Tilton/Wilwood Clutch system, Caterham 6-speed gearbox and a Radtec radiator upgrade. The car will also come with the hood, doors, rear cover a bikini style top as well as a Caterham anti-roll bar. The fenders and nose were originally British racing green, they are currently sprayed with plastidip which, while I like it isn’t the shiny look some may desire - the great thing about platidip is that with some Goo-gone or dip remove it is very easy to remove. The body is bare aluminum, it wears a few stone dings as you would expect but again - your’s to have painted or polished should you so wish. Reluctant sale which may appear on BaT in the near future but I thought it was worth sharing here to see what interest there may be and give folks the opportunity to avoid the significant buyers fee on an auction. You’re welcome to come take a look if you’re in the area although I have yet to get the inspection updated - no big deal just a matter of finding the time. Looking for around $45,000 paid by wire transfer, more than happy to work with interested buyers on shipping plans, pickup etc. I’ll be doing some polishing up over the coming weeks but snapped a few pictures with my phone for now.

Not quite Canada but there may be a New Hampshire 7 on the market soon, depending on what part of Canada it’s not far away!

Thanks, I have fiberglass so will likely lean toward CF, I don’t see different sizes specified so assume they’re the same for SV/non-SV.

I’m considering putting stone guards on my rear wings/fenders, are the Caterham ones the best option or do people recommend others or protection film? It looks like Beachman sell them in the US although I also have family coming from the UK in a month who could bring stuff over (I’m in New Hampshire).

I have one I’m not using and would part with. I can upload pictures later if needed.

I have a carbon fiber aero screen I’d be willing to part with if you’re interested.

Umm… hang it from the ceiling? Oops.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qb9bPYK8q5oPpLKA6 !!

With a set of wheel dolly things you can get three or four 7s in a single garage!

Thanks Bill, I appreciate all of your guidance and patience. Just need to decide now whether to screw it in or not. To me the reality is that if the weather is bad then the roof needs to be up which solves the weather issue, the idea of a watertight boot/trunk and an open cab… The other detail I was debating was not likening exposed studs when I have no tonneau but I also realized there’s no reason I couldn’t have them and snap a smooth cap into them. I think I have all of my fasteners here, I’ll have to do some measuring and experimenting as soon as I can spend some time in the garage. from BAT it looks like you’re keeping busy chasing another 7… good luck!

So it’s screwed to the bar, correct? i.e. If you wanted to completely remove the boot cover you’d need a screwdriver to do so?

Gotcha. I had planned to have the smooth button on the top side but it’s feeling that will be a lot of hassle - although if I go with fasteners both sides I will need to confirm spacing as I don’t have the tonneau, could be a little annoying for someone to think they could attach it then find the fasteners are in the wrong place!

Actually as I think about it I suppose I could rivet through a male on the top and a female on the bottom, why didn’t that occur to me?

I don’t have the double sided fasteners, don’t have a tonneau for the cabin for that matter, the fabric snaps I have will not reach through the fabric and the bar so it’ll either have to go or I’ll need to research snaps with a link her reach. Do the standard ones screw in or rivet? I would suppose it’s easier as both sides are “open” so you could drill a hole and rivet straight through?

Got it, I was contemplating removing the strip thinking it’d make it much easier to install fabric snaps, I’m thinking regular snaps aren’t going to have the reach to get through the fabric and the bar?

By backer board do you mean the bar stiched into the tonneau? You’d have to have cut that, correct?

Thanks Bill, much appreciated. So in essence you slit around the bolts so it can still be removed with them in place, correct? Did you stitch around the slit or anything similar to reinforce the vinyl? My inclination is to do the same with a fastener either side of the belt mounts to try to keep things snug. Did you remove the metal bar that’s stitched into the cover entirely?

My rear boot cover is not currently installed, it has all of the studs in place on three sides, the back edge has holes that align with the belt mounts. Is the “standard” approach to remove the bolts for the belts and use (just those) to secure it or to also add fasteners / rivets / screws? ideally I’d like it to be removable but I don’t think it’ll stretch over the belt mounts so I’d have to cut around them which I’m not eager to do. Are there other options? Looking at it I think I could put fabric fasteners along the bar behind the seats on the rear facing side but arguably it’d be less weatherproof. Do any of you have better suggestions or does everyone general go with a semi-permanent install with the belt mounts securing it?