ukchris

Thank you, I have a 6” steel bar that is pre-drilled with four holes, I am thinking I’d drill the floor and bolt it to the floor with two bolts then run a third through it for the belt. I suppose I could mount it fore/aft or across the floor, not sure if one would be stronger than the other or not, I don’t plan on racing, it’s more about getting the belts installed as I may be selling soon.

Thank you - isn’t that essentially six point though? I have a single crotch strap that, as I understand it, needs to be secured forward of where it comes through the seat? I read 6 points behind, five in front. simple plan would be to drill a hole in the floor and bolt it in but not sure if that’s strong enough. I could also but a bar on the underside, bolted in and bolt through it (essentially 3 bolts holding it) and trust the bar isn’t going to pull through.

@sltous I measured the diameter of the raised portion of the male as 3/8”, ordered 1/2” and 5/8” to be safe. I also ordered exploding rivets from Amazon that are 3/16” diameter. Thanks for the notes, I’ll see how these look and go from there.

My car has six point harnesses, for one reason or another I now have a brand new set of five point harnesses so… is there a better/worse way to mount the crotch strap? The six-point ones were bolted through the supports that run on the underside of the floor, for a center mount how much reinforcement is necessary? Obviously it’s fairly easy to drill through the floor but would it be better to run a piece across the other two sturdier mounts? How about bolting a bar running fore/aft on the underside? What would you recommend to anchor a center cross strap?

I’m in a similar position and need to replace a couple of the snaps, they’ve pulled out of the car and the rear cover. I measured them and thought they were 3/8” diameter but I’m not sure if you measure outside, inside etc. On McMaster Carr they seem to have 1/2” and 5’8”, they’re cheap enough I may as well get 10 of each https://www.mcmaster.com/95691A106/ Can I just discard the back piece and use a rivet instead? 1/8”? Anything specific about the type of rivet given the previous ones pulled out? This wide spreading rivets look like a good idea but I have not been able to find those. One last question, my rear trunk cover has no fasteners across the back (that runs along the back of the seats) - are these usually fabric snaps riveted on top or below the bar?

Good advice, thanks. I’ve been looking on Summit Racing which I hope is reputable.

is the difference between the latch and camlock one of convenience in unfastening or is a camlock also considered to be safer for rapid egress?

I’m debating Racequip five point harnesses for passenger and driver, $150 a piece, not too crazy.

While I agree on safety I think there's also a cost / convenience / purpose perspective, for road use / touring don't you think many people would be happier with a simpler harness? I haven't been a huge fan of the 3" five point on the road, no question as to the importance of high end belts for track use - if that's what someone chooses to do with the car.

I'm likely going to sell my 2013 SV in the spring and want to replace the belts/harnesses before doing so, I'd appreciate recommendations that ideally aren't crazy costly. The car currently has a Racequip five point harness for the driver, I think likely 4" belts and basic inertia belt for the passenger. Camlock vs Latch? Any suggestions that are easily sourced in the US (Summit?) that people would recommend? 6 point? 5? 4? Drivers seat has a hole cut for a single belt so maybe 4 point for both or a 5 for the driver and 4 for the passenger (I don't really want to cut the passenger seat).

I have my doubts about how a change to a bolder color would go but the black certainly covers well, even a first coat was a huge improvement. Once they’re dry I’ll have a better look in daylight and see if they need more but very pleased so far. My aluminum polishing skills... well that’s a work in progress! I suspect I could learn to do a vinyl wrap quicker sometimes!!

Started dyeing the seats and they look 100x better, have a slightly “crispness” to them but after two coats I’m very pleased at this stage. Some before and after comparisons...

Understood and agreed, I just shampooed the seats which while cleaner made little real difference, i don’t think I said but they are black, or were anyway, there are still a few unfaded areas. Looking into hole repair and dye options now while they dry out completely.

I could always get a pair of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1130r?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwn7j2BRDrARIsAHJkxmwC-0ZWF7iSko4aPI3YjW6qyrvctIAspCFz2ddn2DG0vlDft_nsYNsaAlbXEALw_wcB to tidy thinks up. It is a 2013 SV, 1.6 Sigma with individual throttle bodies, 6-speed, LSD

Let’s see if this will work from my phone...

I hear you but similarly for someone who wants race seats it’s like throwing $1k away isn’t it? I’m not going to pay $1k to have the seats re-done, may as well buy new if it’s that much or try Kirkey or some others from Jegs.

Do you still have these? Price, pics?

Makes sense on polishing it up, how about seats? They are solid but faded, have them covered (est. around $1k) or replace with something like Kirkey rave seats? Again it seems people have very different desires but looks are important too.

I have a 2013 Caterham SE that I’m thinking I’m going to sell, the body is bare aluminum and while it is in good condition it certainly isn’t shiny, similarly the original cloth seats are very sun-faded and the drivers seat has a hole cut for a harness strap. Given some people like their 7’s shiny and fancy and others like them more *natural* I’m debating whether I should have the seats re-covered and the body polished before advertising it - yet the other half of me things it’d be better to leave those choices to the buyer, they may want different seats and not want to take on polishing duties etc. For those that have bought and sold what are your thoughts? I’ve been quoted over $1,000 to have two seats reupholstered which seems a little crazy when I could buy two Kirmes seats with covers for that. Would love some insights thanks, Chris.

I’d like to have my 7 checked out by someone who knows their way around it, while there are a lot of custom/hot rod shops near by I’m not sure they have familiarity with a seven. Does anyone know of a shop they’d recommend around the MA/NH line around where 93 crosses - or thereabouts? Chris.

I had mine shipped CA to NH recently with InterCity and was very pleased. As Croc said not the cheapest but also not the most expensive, very pleased with their service and flexibility though.

If that’s harsh!! Maybe the story of down under isn’t so well known here in comparison to US / England!!!

Do any of you folks go to the British Invasion in Stowe? It’s not that far from me so wondering about a trip up there later in the year. Any comments/experience would be most welcome.

Chris used to be the “dealer” in New England then relocated to fL, I guess he’s not official but has been doing this for a long time and is well regarded from what I’ve heard. I’ve talked to him a few times and he’s always been helpful.

While looking up prices on the Kirkey seats I stumbled across others at Summit, I haven't looked in to details on size/fit/brackets but they have some pretty nice looking seats that have good reviews and are inexpensive. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14041&stc=1