ukchris

I'm not sure how I'd go about doing that..! I like the theory but not so sure as to how. I reached out to Chris from Sevens and Elans and he put me in touch with a local Lotus guy, we spoke this afternoon and he has kindly offered to come and take a look to help assess what is involved in swapping back to the original intake and ECU - and therefore getting the OBD port back, this looks like the likely path for now. Anyone interested in some throttle bodies and ECU?! *lol*

This is becoming a bit of a nightmare. After multiple conversations it seems there is no way to get the car classified as being pre-1996, as the chassis and engine are newer it is considered a 2013, as a "modern" engine it would have an OBD port therefore I cannot pass emissions if I don't have one. Now, as to where that leaves me, the engine is a 1.6 Sigma/Zetec SE Ti-VCT, original owner installed Jenvey Individual Throttle Bodies with OMEX 600 engine management which does not have OBD, the original intake/ECU will come with it but he estimated 30 hours of work to swap back, does that sound realistic? It is sounding worryingly like I'm going to have to find someone to so that swap for me, I'm not feeling like it's a realistic first project for me to take on!

Welcome! I'm not as tall as you but have the same inseam, I've owned a regular Caterham and a Birkin and both were a tight fit, not only in terms of length/height but the pedal box is very tight width wise. I have just bought an SV and while I'd agree with your comments about the difference in appearance I am very excited to be able to fit comfortably and to be able to press one pedal at a time Not sure where your travels take you but if you map them out I'm sure you'll find someone nearby, I'm around the MA/NH line if you're ever up this way, my car should get here this weekend.

It's looking like Grundy, I will call both Grundy and Haggerty to verify all details but based on the web quotes Grundy are currently cheaper and I think qualify as a company that understands the car and what I need.

Paul - you don't happen to remember the name of the specialty vehicle lady by any chance do you?

I have spoken with Paul, it seems the secret sauce is locating the one lady at the RMV that understands replicas, I just tried and got lost in a series of telephone transfers. As a backup plan I just talked to a custom garage near where I live and they are going to look in to it too, one avenue they suggested was trying to get categorized as a "hot rod" as they are considered to be exempt. I'll try the RMV again later and see if I have better luck or maybe run up there later in the week. No joy on a separate RMV topic on where to put an inspection sticker when you have a windshield and an aero screen, apparently the system is "unable to compute" what to do with the sticker other than put it in the corner of the windshield. I'm going to see if they'd stick it on a removable film/pocket that I could relocate if necessary. I was hoping they might say I could have a "bike style" sticker that is put on the frame, maybe I'll show up for the test with the aero screen and see what happens!

From what I've read there aren't exemptions for replicas, there is however a garage down the street that apparently does a lot of custom/muscle cars and they're also a testing station so I figure they'd be a good place to drop by and ask for guidance. Had another fail this morning asking how to deal with a windshield inspection sticker when I have two windshields (one glass, on aero) - they told me I can only have one windshield so to pick!

So, I went to transfer the title and register my car this morning, all went well but they insisted on listing the year of manufacture as 2013 when it was assembled. The car is coming from California where it was considered exempt from emissions testing. The car has a different ECU which doesn't have an OBD port so I'm a little unsure what is going to happen when it comes to test time. The web site says that all vehicles after 1996 have an OBD port for testing... oops... I should have the old ECU which in theory can be swapped back in, do you think they will insist on this or is the "replica" argument valid here? This is in NH, emissions regulations here https://www.dmv.com/nh/new-hampshire/emissions-testing - should they be able to test emissions without OBD or am I just asking for a fail?

I'm with you, a "big name" would make me nervous although I'd be happier if Grundy/Hagerty web sites recognized Caterham as a manufacturer! I'm expecting $500-$700 just need to compare the details on limits/deductibles and so on.

Grundy $450 Insurance perplexes me!

Thanks Mike, so far... Haggerty $700, Geico and amig around $300 but with all sorts of exclusions (removing Comprehensive, Collision) which worries me to say the least!

No car yet, a few more days but I have plates... so it's time to get insurance quotes. My regular insurance is with Geico so I'll probably at least get a quote there, do you folks typically just add to your regular policy or go to one of the specialized insurers (Haggerty etc)?

do you know if the Caterham one is available in the US? I didn’t call but not of the Caterham dealers seem to maintain pets sections on their sites. In in all honesty I’m distracting myself while the car is on its way, there are many things I’m researching that I think I’ll probably want to do but I’ve yet to sit in an SV to confirm. Another distraction is the signal switch, I’ve keen reading about a motorcycle using called the Moro-X which is a kind of allnin one fuse box controller. It provides momentary switch control fornsignals and lights as well as keyless ignition by recognizing your phone via Bluetooth. Still looking in traffic compatibility - and waiting to see if the indicator switch is as archaic as I remember!

Thank you Shane... and sorry I called you Mike, *lol* *brain fart*

Thanks Mike, do you recall where you got the spline/adaptor? If I understand correctly you're saying you drill through the column and the shaft on the coupler then insert the pins you linked to, correct? Multiple pins I assume?

My car is finally on the truck and headed East, it's new home will be ready just in time. My last 7 had the removable Momo wheel and I'm thinking I'll want to put one in this one (it currently had the standard wheel). Have many of you done this with either the "standard" approach replacing the column or with an aftermarket adaptor? Pros and cons of each?

I’ve been there, I see the discoungngaragedlooringllc offers but didn’t see anything on racedeck discounts - do you have any details on that?

While I'm not against epoxy it isn't likely to be an option as the slab in my barn isn't great - and I don't plan to have it re-done. It gets damp, has some cracks etc, it is quite "livable" but I don't think a paint/epoxy solution is going to be an option for me. I'm leaning toward RaceDeck

i read the run small, I’m a 12/12.5 so ordered 13’s, I’ll let you know Friday how they fit.

No affiliation but I have been looking for some Puma shoes, they have a sale going on here http://us.puma.com/en_US/sale/men - coupon XTRA20 at checkout will take off another 20% and make shipping free. Have any of you successfully "unbranded" the BMW or Ferrari shoes?

I'd love to have a garage full of snap-on tools but unfortunately the price/quantity is somewhat prohibitive. Maybe we can find a member who's a franchisee to run a group by

Would that make this a group shot from a meet up?!!! http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13919&stc=1

Just had to look...! I have a set of ambidextrous adjustables so I should be good to go. The HF jack has a coupon making is $59.99 at the moment, just can't see why I would need more than one for now though. Cut off tool and wheels though.... now there's a thought. Struggling to get my head around the car arriving while there's another 18: of snow falling on top of the 14: from last week, at least it hasn't left Cali yet!

Three floor jacks? I was assuming I can jack it front/back or a corner at a time to get jack stands under... do you have the "just because" or do you feel it's a need? I'm thinking about a 1/2" socket set, will definitely pick up the HF torque wrench. For Jack stands was leaning toward Amazon, $25/pair.

As my planning for the new arrival continues I am thinking about tools, what are "must haves" and what are "nice to haves" etc. I have a reasonable socket set (3/8" drive" and wrenches, all the typical screwdrivers, pliers vice grips etc. Right now the top of my list is a trolley jack (Harbor Freight Low Profile) and Jac/Axle Stands, what else would you consider immediate needs? I think my main debate is a torque wrench, it's pretty clear I need one but there seems to be a very broad cost curve, any thoughts on the Harbor Freight $20 Torque Wrench or (although I can't find it now) using a digital torque adaptor as a "converter" for a socket set? I'll have some poppers to fix so a rivet gun too although one may be coming with the car. What am I missing that is a necessity?