cs3tcr

That would be the Lotus 40, it was a Lotus 30 with 10 more defects. The Lotus 20 was a rather nice single seater.

I'm sure you're aware, but the early Lotus had the same front suspension. If you have your heart set on an Eleven, I would send an email to either Vic Thomas or Jay Sloane. Either of them could steer you in the right direction in terms of what cars are original and which ones aren't. But, in regards to car 234, having a new chassis doesn't really detract from its value, provided it has continuous history. And, even though its set up as a live axle, you can get all the bits to turn it into a Le Mans spec car (de dion and disc brakes). Unfortunately, the days of finding a real Eleven for less than $75k I fear are over, unless you stumble upon a barn find. I forget the guys name, but about 8 years ago he found an Eleven S2 roller in a barn while looking for Corvair parts. A deal was done and he took the car home for a song, but it had no ID tag. Luckily the Eleven Register with some help from the guys on the Autosport Nostalgia forum found the car in some old race programs which provided the chassis number. Everything was still with the car minus the Climax engine, but the guys at Hutton sorted one out for him. Lucky guy, the car was a wobbly web shod Le Mans optioned Eleven. As for replica 11's, been there done that. Made a little bit of money on it, but nowhere near as much as the next owner. I'm now kicking myself for selling the spare Climax FW that I had, I could be building another if I still had it. Rod

I've got a bunch of books gathering dust on my bookshelf that may be of some use to others: Lotus Seven - Resto/Prep/Maint. by Weale - used, some soiling from being used in the shop $70 Lotus and Caterham Seven by Tipler - good shape $35 Lotus Seven Super Profile by Arnold - good shape $10 Lotus 11 by Ortenburger - good shape except the dust cover was laminated poorly (from new) SOLD Racing and Sports Car Chassis Design by Costin & Phipps - decent shape for an old book SOLD All prices are in Canadian, and located in Vancouver BC. Thanks, Rod

Do you a complete axle or just the diff? If its just the diff, I have a 3.9:1 that I pulled from my old car when I swapped it for a rebuilt unit. It needs a pinion seal, but other than that seemed to be fine. Rod

It should be a Triumph based rack, so Spitfire/late MG Midget will work.

I had a small port 4AG in my old S2/3 sized chassis. The T50 gearbox is a little bulky in the bellhousing department, but it fits with some mods to the chassis (luckily i fitted the lump before skinning the chassis).

Honestly I cant recall what he used to replace it, the car was restored almost two decades ago. I think he found either a NOS one or someone was selling the correct dash for his car. Also, don't quote me on this, but the lamiplate only came in steel, hence the use of a steel dash on an aluminium panelled car. ~Rod

The dash that i had on my replica was a genuine Lotus item from a friends 7 S3 (he replaced it because of an extra hole). It appeared to be galvanized on the back side, the face was a textured black surface. I think the material used was called lamiplate, but I could be wrong.

I would want to hear about it before the sale. It would affect the sale price dramatically or even give you a chance to pass on the sale. And i would think that the seller should disclose this information, he is after all selling a dubious car. I would try to find as much as i could about the car, check all the numbers stamped in the frame, and have a lengthy discussion with the register to see if one of the many claiming to be the actual car, is indeed the actual car.

I would put my money on the condensor. When they start to break down, they work fine when they are cold to warm, but once they're hot they stop working. When i was still in the british car trade (almost three years ago now), we had a hard time finding a good supplier of condensors for the 23D/25D Lucas distributors (or should i say inexpensive good condensors). Failing that, try swapping out the rotor, these too give headaches when they crack. I had a very similar problem with my Eleven rep (uses a 23D distributor on a Climax FW), started up fine, drove fine for about 4 miles, then started to crap out, and finally wouldnt run at all. Had it towed home, let it cool down, and it started right up. Decided to change the condensor and havent had a problem since (about a year and a half now).

FS: 3.9 Cortina diff (nose piece assembly), used obviously, needs the pinion seal changed. Other than that, its in good shape. $150 obo, located in Vancouver BC. PM or email rod_mac at hotmail dot com

I used to really enjoy the late fall, mid winter blats. Though i did note that my toque would try to fly off when driving above 70mph (no side curtains or deflectors on the windscreen).

Greg, I would opt for the Cat/Jag mount. I would think it would give a bit more "wiggle room", ie if the motor is too low in the chassis you can always add a spacer between the mount and the bracket. I had to do this to my old Seven, and the Eleven. Or if the motor is too high, you could remove some material from the vertical tube of the engine bracket.

Its definately a Caterham chassis, but looks like either a NOS early chassis or a new "old" one from Arch. The rear shock mounts are typical for all early cars, Caterhams included. If the front uprights are from an Elan, they are correct for the Lotus built Sevens (they too are Triumph based). The tail lamps are correct for late Series 2 and all Series 3 Lotus', bar the Twin Cam SS. And finally the dash, it looks home made, it not stock Series 3 Lotus, nor is it an S2 dash. Anyways, it looks cool and i would love to have it, but lack of space and currently $ would prevent it. Though (shamless plug) i am selling my car, it too is on the Bay.

Mike, I take it your building the rear suspension in the style of the Series 1, but with a panhard bar instead of the triangulated trailing arm? One thing to do would be confirm the spring rates, or at least get a good estimate of what they are. I put a piece of round stock in a vice, placed the spring on the vice over the round stock, then put some weights on and measured the deflection. Its a very rough measurement, but it confirmed that i had 90 lb/in springs on my car (eleven replica, which is very very close to Seven S1 rear suspension). And, with two of us in the car etc, they do compress a fair amount. Other than that, like its been mentioned check for anything binding. Failing that, you might want to contact Mike Brotherwood, he helped me out with my Eleven issues, and is very knowledgeable on Seven S1 stuff.

I've got a spare windscreen assembly that i no longer require. Its complete with glass and stantions. Its used (came off a Series 1 Seven that i was helping restore). Located in Vancouver but willing to ship. $125 obo.

You're lucky with the top mount pedals, my car (Eleven replica) has the floor mount pedals and its a pain cause you cant slip your left foot under the clutch pedal. But, as for the steering lock, i think you'll find that the rack is narrowed and doesnt allow much more than what you have. And finally, the shifting, just practice practice practice. It took almost two months for me to pick it up, and even now after two full driving seasons i ocaisonally make a mistake.

Bruce, Thanks for posting that pic, i do have it saved somewhere, but it got me thinking. Using it i can probably figure out the pedal spacing, from there i can sketch into my drawing where the masters are located. I've got a blueprint of the Eleven S1 pedals, so i'm sure i can do some modfications to them to make them work. Along with the master cylinder mounts for the XI. Now all i need to do is find some time. Cheers, Rod

I'm thinking my next car is going to be a Seven S1 replica, so i'm trying to find as many pics and info as i can. I've done the Google searching and have found some good detail shots, but i'm trying to find any pictures of the brake master cylinders on the very very early cars (bottom hinged pedals not the usual top hinged pedals). A friend has a later Series 1 which i've measured and have just about finished a chassis drawing for, but i'm still seeking more info. Cheers, Rod

Based on the serial number, that car didnt leave the Caterham factory with a Twin Cam. The serial number should read CS3/####/TCL to denote a LHD TC powered Caterham. At least that early of a Caterham.

Lol, you guys found my video. I'm hoping to have some in car video's shot this spring, once the rainy season ends here in Vancouver. Cheers, Rod