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Just when I was getting comfortable with the build, the engine had to arrive. :banghead: Unlike some (smarter) people, I bought a Ford Zetec engine from a different source than the kit which is a Caterham. Now I'm awash with new questions. 1. Throttle cable. Caterham says it should have come with the engine, maybe I can use a bicycle cable. I think I can do this on the engine side, but how does it attach to the pedal? 2. Oil Pressure Sensor. In the photo I am holding the sensor. The brass adapter for it has already been screwed into the block. The engine guys say I can use any one of holes in the right side of the engine. The rear most hole (not shown) would conflict with the starter. I tried the fitting in the forward hole, but it appears to conflict with the oil filter and alternator. Should I be using the center hole? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/2095011443_oilpressuresensor.JPG The Caterham kit has a 32" (yes very long) braided hose, marked "remote oil sensor", but none of the fittings (there are lots) seem to work with the sensor and fitting in the engine block. Supposedly the braided hose lets you mount the oil sensor remotely so it is less influenced by vibration. 3. Water Gauge? The harness has a female single connector marked "Wt. Gauge". I assume this means water guage. The kit has a sensor that fits it, shown in my hand in this picture. But where does it go on the engine? There seems to be no place on the thermostat for it. Suspicously I see there is a similar looking sensor in the right side between the alternator and intake. And the wires are chopped off. :ack: Is this the same thing? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1697143424_mysterysensor.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1063726992_newsensor.JPG Any help and photos would be appreciated. Thanks again! --Harold

Try these guys http://www.midatlanticcaterham.com/ http://www.uscaterham.com/home.html

That sums it up pretty well. I'm voting for Ron Paul. Maryland Republicans, don't forget to vote on Tuesday! www.RonPaul2008.com

Turned around the rear arms, which improved things a bit. Disconnected the forward arm from the bellcrank and attached the bellcrank to the DiDion tube first. Used used a floor jack to coax the DiDion tube up while rotating the bellcrank to line up with the forward arm. Reconnected forward arm. Disconnected the anti-roll bar during the process too. Not sure if that mattered. Thanks again for the hints! :cheers:

Here are the diagrams.http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/2137978453_WattsLinkDiagram.JPG

The bushing does extend outward on the outboard side of the crank face. The longer hole extends downward. I believe it goes in the upper hole. Will double check. Good catch! Will do this after breakfast and see if it helps. Thanks!

Got stuck assembling the rear suspension. The guide says to attach the Watts Link to the DiDion tube first. Since the bellcranks were missing, I went ahead and assembled the rest of the suspension first thinking the Watts Links could be bolted on last. Now the parts arrived but the bellcranks do not line up with th holes on the flanges if the DiDion tube. Any suggestions? I tried putting the tires on and lowered the car off the jackstands, but it did not change much. Also double-checked the length of the Watts Link arms. The photo shows the holes that need to line up on the bellcrank and the tube. The tube still needs to come up and slightly back. I'd rather not have to take everything apart. Is there any way out? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1994257755_WattsLinkProblem.JPG

For me it was the most money for the least car I'd ever spent. I think that's part of the package of Seven ownership. You're really paying for the experience instead of gadgets and features. Good luck!

I would have bought it in my 20's instead of in my 40's. Even if it meant eating more mac and cheese. :cheers:

Thanks again, all. You guys are quick! The guy who is building my engine has decided to try and make this alternator work. We'll see.

:7fume: Awesome!

Does anyone know a part number of an alternator that fits the Zetec 2.0 LTR? The Bosch alternator I bought conflicts with the throttle cable linkage. I need to find an alternator that is about 0.75" smaller in diameter. The alternator would use the standard bracket, on the intake side. Thanks in advance...

Hey! They do come with about 150 rivets for other things. Just enough to wear you out. :thumbs:

My advice would be to get a ride in one of these cars, or better yet drive one.

I think that we can honorably represent the USA7s brigade by partitioning the tent. Keep all the Sevens on one side, all the Loti on the other, and use banners, streamers, signs, spotlights, music, magicians, donkeys, etc. to segregate marques. Ask yourself, what would Colin Chapman do? One tent is definately much lighter than too. (But if the team decides to make it a Seven only tent, I will be glad to divide the tent price by the number who show on Saturday.) :7head:

Probably not. My Elise does not have the cupholder.

I'm thinking it's more realistic to get a dozen Elises and a dozen Sevens. Count me in #11, with Seven. (Baring an act of God that rids the Seven un-drivable.)

Thanks! I feel better already. I think mine are equal, about 3.25" overhang ahead and behind. I'll probably go with it the way they are and mod them later if they bother me. I like the mud flap idea too.

I think I mounted the cycle wings too far forward. (They are not actually mounted to the wingstays yet, but my fasteners have been bonded to the wings.) What is the correct distance between the leading edge of the wing and the front wingstay? This happened because my wings came unpainted and thus did not have the markings. I just split the difference, i.e., centered the wings on the wingstays. Now, looking at pictures of other cars, I think they should be offset toward the rear. :banghead: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1814453292_WingPlacement.JPG

Suzi Collie helped me polish.http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1393130740_SuziCollie.JPG

If you are interested specifically in assembling a Caterham, call me and I will give you first hand account of my experience. I am in Maryland and have been working on the kit since December. I went with Mid-Atlantic Caterham in Delaware. You can follow my build at www.Hals7.com. Invaluable resources, besides www.usa7s.com, include www.blatchat.com and www.thecaterhamproject.com. Good luck! Harold 443-536-2007

I like the idea of sharing the tent with the Lotus crowd. If my Seven is not finished I would be inclined to bring the Elise. And, it might be easier to get a dozen Elises and a dozen Sevens. Just a thought. :party:

Oooh, Baby! Insentive to move my July target date up to May! If I get the engine install in February this might be a possibility!!! :thumbs:

I'm glad you raised this issue. I just used the Nuvite System (http://www.nuvitechemical.com/) on a brand new body and had less than stellar results: tiny microscratches, hollograms, smudgey/smokey, etc. Some areas look better than others, and the look varies depending on the lighting. I have it twice--the second time using the help of a detailer friend (lots of polishing experience, but no prior aluminum experience), so I don't think it is just me. I will probably try again. And I may try the system in described in thread above, or this one http://www.topoftheline.com/aluminum-polish-kit.html. Also here is an interesting thread on the topic showing what is possible, and some of the obstacles. http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/76762-spirit-ecstasy-1922-rolls-royce-silver-ghost.html?highlight=Rolls Harold

Uh oh!