BusaNostra

Jturrell Is A used one an option? http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/list.asp?p=1&s=39 In my opinion, $61, for any seven not worth buying. Just me. The only incentive you will get (with this type of car) is driving with "joy" It's hard to correlate or justify value vs joy. I don't look at any seven as future investment with a good return. If I blow my money to a seven...that's it, don't expect depreciation....gone! But my satisfaction driving 7 remains. Buy a used one, sleep well and join the club.

"Now, if I can figure out a way to make the trip to England a business trip, I'll really save some money . . . . " Don't tell the Congress you are also taking a private plane.:lol: By the way, the big three will not appreciate you buying Caterham. They need your money in Detroit!!

If you are really serious buying a seven: Here is what I did, I bought a cheapticket. Went for a short vacation in England. I went to the factory, bought the whole 9 yards (no engine-no tranny). They helped box the kit with no charge. Send the box to their shipping broker (paid the shipper). I picked the box at the airport cargo (here in the US). I only paid $250. to the custom because they declared the box as an auto parts. I saved a ton.

http://video.kenblockracing.com/flash/small_player/preloader.swf?vendor_id=204&media_id=9183&bgcolor=FFFFFF&autoplay=0

Bud---did you take a flu shot first? :lol: I thought I saw you at Rt. 69 coughing.

Did you put a hi-temp greese instead of regular greese at the spline?

Happened to my old 280Z. Majority of the time, the same problem you described. Someone told me the problem probably a bend disc plate. When I installed the new clucth disc, I used a clutch aligner. However, I let the transmission hang while trying to push the input shaft to align the spline. Sure enough, the center clutch disc bent & bearing will not release . I replaced the disc and works afterwards. I hope you did not do the same stupid thing?

Its hard to put a price on specialty cars, replica cars, clone cars or whatever they called 'em. If the car is a real lotus 7, then its pretty easy to find the pricing. Not too many Westfield around here, my suggestion is to browse the Ebay in England and convert the price. You will get a pretty good idea how much they sell the exact car and engine. I think if you love the car, no resistance from wifey and the car is already registered, its half the battle! In regards to the Kent engine, I heard good things about the engine. They are very reliable. I say, start from this engine and learn more about the Seven. You will enjoy the car even if its a lawn mower engine. Someday, when you need more power start tweaking the engine. Once you touch the engine the fun begins :hurray: You will go to heaven or go to hell.

I will not let "any" young kid or my grandchild ride in motorcycle , my seven or simply biking in a busy local road. My driving is fine (i think), but what about the other dude? Why wait something to happen? If unfortunate it did happen, serious or mild accident...you will regret for the rest of your life. It can happen in your big SUV too.....but Of course, that's only my opinion. You can do whatever you want.

Are you using this one http://www.hushpower.com/product/32/HP-2+Series+%22Shorty%22+-+304S.html or this pro http://www.hushpower.com/product/15/PRO+Series+w%2FTurndown.html Sorry...I don't know which one.

I'm convinced! Which series of hushpower II, round or the oval? Which length I need? 12 ? 14 ? or 16 ? Thanks again....I will do the same for my s2000

Any good sounding sidepipe muffler you can recommend? Hi-pitch preferred instead of a V8 muscle car sound. Engine is 4 bangger.

Yes I'm using the stock harness but I cut it awhile back. I spliced it back and now its charging !!! Thank you very much.

Due to some health problem, was not able to finish my project on time this summer. However, I fired my Westfield with S2000 engine yesterday. Glad the engine runs with minor electrical problems. The Honda S2000 alternator is not charging. If anyone out here know how to fix this issue, kindly help. The honda has 4 wires at the alternator. According to the book... White/blue --- indicator light to the dash (this one is easy). This is the only wire I used besides the big wire that goes to the alternator to the positive post of the battery. Unfortunately, if you don't hook up the rest of the wires, the alternator will not charge. The ecu controlled the ELD (give signal to the alternator to charge). Black/yellow goes to fuse 6 (battery power) The last two wires are too complicated for me. White/green control the signal to ECU White/red input signal to ECU. I did not use the last 3 wires. Still investigating how to hook up these wires back to my ecu. If complicated, the last resort is to buy a single wire alternator (maybe GM has one). Done and over. However, I want to use the stock Honda alternator if I can.... for reliability. If you know something in this area, kindly help.

Yeah you are right, I researched and seems impossible when 02 sensor is involve in the process. However, someone in Australia not getting the air pump Cel by using the JDM ecu. I'm using the MIL connection at the dash the reason I'm pursuing to clear all the CEL. When my MIL light goes on, I like to be notified that there is something wrong in the engine. Otherwise, if I can't clear the air pump code there is no use to hook the MIL light...useless!

Sorry about that. I think the (P1607) engine CEL code triggered by the bad coolant temp sensor. After I fixed the coolant temp sensor problem, I erased the CEL using my OBDII scanner. The code (P1607) did not show up. There is only one code left that I am trying to solve. S2000 has an air pump for emission. I deleted the air pump. I think by using a resistor (divider), I will be able to trick the ecu thinking the air pump still there. Just a matter of time.....Human brain vs fixed brain.

problem solved! Thread closed----thank you

Been driving a 7 since the 70's but never heard 7 clones manufacturer bashing its other....never! Gather all the 7 clones and compare. Whichever you like then investigate the support. This is more important to your build than anything else. Mine is a Westfield, during my build I have problem communicating in England. Sometimes I had too much to ask. There is also a time constraint, parts & donor is also different from the States. I think I got more help from a guy name Brian Anderson (another 7 clone manufacturer).

I am getting an engine code P1607 (OBDII reader), according to the book, the code means something wrong with the ecu. That's all the explanantion. I have not run the car but firing. Is it because I deleted my security system in the ecu? Thanks a lot

Oh! I never thought that the lamp is very low profile. How does the other one you mentioned look like? I thought the Piaa P-4000 is a bit bigger. I bit dissapointed to see the headlamp very small.

http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/Lamp-pages/p-4000.html Any feedback?

Finally found the problem. Yes, its the stupid ground. I directed all my black wires to the negative battery post and all my ills are gone! What a shame! I deleted my additional wiring just to solve the problem. I am using a Dash2 by Race Technology. I have to continue before the cold weather hits New England. Wiring problem makes a young man old and an old man very, very old. Thanks

Thanks John---the wires I mentioned are located below the brace i described. Kindly check is for me if those are safe to be fitted to the ground. Thanks

John, Thanks.... Yes! that's exactly what's happening. I got more funky results probably because of no ground from the loom connected to the chassis. "• The loom, battery, ECU, and engine ground to a stud welded to the top chassis tube where the transmission tunnel opens into the engine bay." I remember this hook-up. I changed the engine to Honda S2000, I modified the crossmember and deleted the stud you mentioned. Now I can't find the black wires (bunch of ground wires) that supposed to connect to the stud. The Honda S2000 has a bulky transmission and occupied the tunnel. tHERE IS NO ROOM even using a mirror. I might have tuck the ground wires up using a tie wrap. Do me a favor, at the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir, there is a chassis brace and wire bundle. On that bundle, there are approx. 6 black wires sticking out bundled together but not connected to the ground. Since I can't reach or find the original ground wires from the stud, I'm thinking of using that 6 black wires to be the replacement. I'm sure its the same wires. I appreciate your help.