slngsht

Steve, great shots. I never realized your plates said "STEVES 7" http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/coolgleamA.gif "MAZDAS 7" would just make people http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/confused5.gif and http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/crazy.gifslngsht2007-03-30 07:37:39

I need to make a poster of this and hang it in the garage http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif

YouTube Video

It was several months ago

Sorry, I have no idea. Probably google.

I've been to your site before. Very nice http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif

hmmm... Rob, can you measure the same things that Robert measured on his car? Yes, up towards the hub is desirable for the upper A-arm(when the lower A-arm is horizontal).slngsht2007-03-29 12:36:18

Someday I'd love to go to the run 'n gun. I know Jerry (powderbrake) is always reminding me http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/smile5.gif It's tough to make the time commitment to do that right now. I also have to upgrade my roll bar. The list never ends.

Robert... quick question for you. I plugged in the data you gave me, and the C5 vette upright dimensions, and the resulting A-arm geometry could be alot better (the upper A-arm is actually pointing down (very slightly). When looking at your car, at static ride height, does the upper A-arm appear to point up (as it goes towards the hub)? From my memory, on my car it appeared pretty much horizontal (again, I don't think that's optimal either). On the C5 upright, the vertical distance between Aarms is 11.3". I think on the Rotus, it's 11". Is that right?

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif the HOA nazzis will shoot me. She'll be hidden in the garage. I'm really getting the itch to drive her now. Amazing how time flies by. This is the best time of the year, as it isn't too hot.

My nephew is WAY into Toyota trucks and offroading (he reads these threads every once in a whilehttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/smile5.gif ) The toyota axles in those trucks are 8" axles. This is a 7.5" axle. And I agree, those are more stout. I bought a ford 9" (the king of axles IMO) from LocostV8, but ultimately to get Torsen diff, aluminum calipers, the bolt pattern that I wanted, and the width that I wanted, the camaro rear offered all those out of the box, so it was hard to resist.

She's in Martinsburg right now. It will definitely look odd on the drive home, because at that point it will have the new rear with 305 R 18 tires in the back, but she'll still have the original front suspension with BBS 225 R 15 tires http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif ... and no fenders to finish the package (my fenders won't even come close to fitting over the 305s). I think when I get home, I should put it up on cinder blocks in the front yard http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif

I want to add a few lines to it and make it available to club members as a benefit http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/yesnod.gif I have to do some cleanup to it now since I added the bellcrank and pushrod.

Thanks. Yes, the T56 is a pig. IF money were no object, instead of the LS1/T56, I would have gone with a 402 cu.in. LS2 and the TKO500 tranny. I recall that the T56 weighs 140 lbs. TKO500 is 112 lbs. As for the stout rear, as of 2 days ago, I was still running the original Toyota axle from an '81 Supra (the mighty 110 hp version http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif ). Due to lack of traction (open diff, R-compound 225 R 15 tires), the rear held up fine. The car is in the shop getting a different rear now - GM 10 bolt from '02 Camaro SS, with torsen diff. This rear is FAR from stout (it fails frequently on modded Camaros, heck - even stock ones), but I figure since my car weighs half as much, I may be fine with it. If it does fail, there is a direct replacement for it: Moser 12 bolt. The camaro rear set me back $350. The moser unit is $2K. I figure it's worth a try. With the camaro rear, I'll be able to use the spare set of wheels I have for my vette, so traction should not be a problem now. I'll be using 305 R 18 tires in the back, 275 17's in the front (simply because I have these already. I can go smaller since I'll be using a popular 5 bolt pattern now). I figure the larger wheels and brakes alone will add 50 lbs to the car. The wheels are approximately 19 lbs each (I don't remember the exact figure. I can also get magnesium wheels relatively cheaply for the vette, which I think are 17 lbs). This is probably too much tire for an autox setup, but although I run autocrosses with it, I think of it as just a fun car, so ultimate autox performance is only one consideration. I will have the weight of both the Toyota unit and the GM unit for comparison. Just after the engine conversion, I weighed the car. With me and various other bits in it, it weighed 1900 lbs. I went home immediately afterwards, carried everything that was in the car to the bathroom scale, and including me, it added up to 200 lbs. I figure there was about 30 lbs of fuel at the time I did this. Since then, I replaced the huge (16 gallon) steel fuel tank with a much lighter aluminum one, and got rid of the front fenders... Those should add up to 40 lbs or so in savings. The lightest rotus I know of belongs to OldYellow on this forum. He runs a completely stripped 13b rotory in his. His car is an autox car only, but I think he still has headlights, wipers, and turn signals. His car weighs 1550 lbs (or maybe 1520). So the Rotus is not very light to begin with (it is BIG compared to a Caterham). My goal after this round of mods is sub 3 second 0-60 times. I did 3.8 on my old setup, and never went past 1/2 throttle. Maybe, just maybe, she'll get some respect from those pesky bike engined cars http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif

Welcome to the forum. You'll find these cars are more demanding than the supermodel-esque redhead http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif In my opinion you can find cheaper / better engines than what's available through car-parts. I didn't source my engine from there, but when I was looking for an axle recently, car-parts places wanted $800 - $850. I bought it for $350. My suggestion is to frequent forums for cars that use the engine you want, and monitor their for sale section and buy from a reputable member there. People regularly part out cars. I think that's the way to go.

Great. Thanks. That's a huge help. I can get started on modeling this thing before the car is back. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif

Robert, you're DA MAN. One question... when you say 13" along the side, do you mean the length of the side of the trapezoid, or vertical distance between the top and the bottom?

Robert, I need the distance between the big bolts that the A-arms pivot around. In the figure below, looking at the car from the front, I need the horizontal distance across the top of the red box (trapezoid), across the bottom of the red box, and the vertical height of the red box. http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070324_215047_RollCenter1.JPG

Yes, basically vbscript. Got the pushrod setup working tonight. I think I'm going to stop here - these are the pieces I need for the new front suspension. http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070327_232202_RollCenter4.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070327_232237_RollCenter5.JPG

XFlow7 and Spotcheck, Welcome aboard!

Very clean http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif

It has done that for me very occasionally... usually when you try again, it works. Try closing the window and trying again. New and improved forum software is coming. Waiting for the developer to finish it http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif

I'm really looking forward to reading these. Anyone want to volunteer to write one for Rotus? Not sure if there is a point since the company is no longer around.

I need a couple of dimensions (My baby is an hour away): Distance between the chassis pivot points for the upper A-arms Distance between the chassis pivot points for the lower A-arms The height difference between the chassis pivot points (upper and lower). Thanks.